ford pumps whine like hell to begin with... but when they are even low, ive had mine howl really loud when it hit the add mark on the stick. if it was empty any pump will scream when its empty
the only reason for a water cooled turbo is so that you dont have to cool down the turbo by letting the car idle after long trips at wot then going to shut the car off, like getting on the freeway and then having to get right back off. now keep in mind that it doesnt mean you can go to the drag stip run a 1/4 at WOT, and shut down immediately after you have crossed 1/4 mile mark, you still need to let it cool for at least 2-3 mins.
i guess i should have been more thorough. i was looking at one of the ford alphabet cams. (stock cam timing btw). i was thinking like an X cam 542 lift, 224 dur at .050. what other cams would be good that will help make a hefty amount of power below 7k rpm. i plan on using a single plane intake, this will be a strip driven car. to the strip on the strip and hopefully back home. i plan on using about a 3-4k stall btw im going to run it carb'd until i get all my turbo stuff then im going back to efi. reason im going carb'd is cause im getting a ton of stuff for cheep. 302 roller with 10k miles since rebuild. i have heard it run and it sounded really good. long and short tube headers (shorts are bbk equal length), full exhaust from headers back, 600 cfm holley carb, built by an old racing buddy, an AOD trans (mines toast) a c4 trans that im going to rebuild. distributor, msd 6al box, gt40p heads with the cobra 1.72 roller rockers, and a bunch of other stuff.
that comp housing is from a garret t3 super 60 series turbo from a merkur/ turbocoupe w/o intercooler. you got jacked. a t3/t4 is only a t3 turbine housing with a t4 comp wheel and housing.
best thing you could do is let off right before it shifts. and stay away from the 2-3 shift at wot, you will snap input shafts even with a bone stock engine, using a harsh shift kit
im looking at getting a set of rear upper and lower control arms. i would like a solid upper set like the jegster brand, and somethink like the granatelli designed ones that i can adjust the lower spring pad height to set preload/ ride height. ive asked jegs, summit and granatelli, and they all cant give me a straight answer, will the upper and lower control arms for a fox body mustang fit under a t-bird?? also as far as the ones with heim (SP??) joints in it are those better for stuff like drag launches, and/or corner as to keep the rear end from binding as the rear end rolls or squats?? sorry im a noob and i did a few minutes of searching but couldnt find a definative anser
im kinda new to the t-bird stuff. im a mechanic and ive fixed a bunch of them from TC's to y 3.8's and hi powered 5.0's. since ive gotton one that has sat for 5+ years that im building as a street/ strip car. yet i want it to hang a corner, and stop good too. i was curious about what is required to drop an sn95 spindle on the car. will i need lower control arms, struts, (calipers and rotors of course). i know wheels cause of the 5 bolt lug patter. thanks in advance.
be careful with that shift kit. you are correct on saving clutch and band life, but the hard parts will now wear quicker IE sunshells, planet's and pinions, input shafts. a firm positive shift is way better for the life of the trans than a neck snapper
