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Messages - Crazy88

286
Suspension/Steering / Biggest tire?
I am told that the largest tire one can fit in the rear, without shortening the axle or installing mini-tubs is 310 on a 18x10.5 wheel, using 40mm backspacing.  I read this on CC, so it is likely to be very accurate.
287
Misc Tech / A couple quick questions.
Quote from: 86cougar;396383
Problem is I'm trying to remove the oil pan so I need to find another way to support the engine.

Which is exactly why I said "...before removing the jack."
288
Misc Tech / A couple quick questions.
Yikes!  I am not sure that jacking up the engines weight using the aluminum bell housing is the best idea...

I would probably advise jacking up the engine using the oil pan and then placing a padded jack stand under the crank snout before removing the jack.  Another possibility would be to place wooden blocks between the k member and the motor mounts.
289
Suspension/Steering / Polyurethane on control arms.
I have used both air hammers and grinders for rivet removal.  Which is easier depends greatly on the vehicle, what kind of equipment you have access to and experience level.  Most of the time, in my experience, the air hammer is faster, though sometimes difficult to use in cramped quarters.  Because of this fact, I tend to use the grinder instead more often than not.
290
Engine Tech / Oil Leak
The low oil sensor is a known problem.  The sensors are still available from Ford, though a bit on the pricey side.  Another options would be  to remove the sensor, blocking off the port with the correct sized bolt (it may the be the same size as the drain plug).  Of course removal will also mean that you will have to do something about the low oil indicator, but exactly what to do with it, I leave to you.  I hope this helps.
291
Electrical Tech / Protecting your blower motor switch (non-EATC)
Quote from: jcassity;396161
just download the respective EVTM pages in my link below.  that should get you started.

They are not identical for the reason you pointed out.  In his, i see the switch is still in play and carrying current because it is upstream of the resistor bank.
This does not match up to the Explorer layout so in effect, the latest revision i show places the switch in question on the ground end of the whole circuit so there is no current draw at all "if" the contacts are not pitted or causing a small load.


This is the last diagram revision posted by quietleaf this afternoon in post #31.  He, like you edited his existing diagram, updating the post body with notes and replacing the diagram  of course to reflect the changes.  I hope that you will review this diagram and come to see that my buttstuffysis that the two diagrams are virtually identical schematically is also correct.  There may be a few minor differences, but for the most part, they are more alike than different.
 

   
Quote from: jcassity;396161

Actually f2 should be something along the lines of approx 10A auto circuit breaker over current protection device but i just stuck a fuse there for no other purpose than to illustrate protection. If you dont think it needs ot be there then its a user choice i would think.


Ok, I am confused again.  Please tell me where in my last post I said that F2 was unnecessary?  F2 is necessary, as this circuit is currently diagramed to provide protection to the secondary circuit, unless you were to tap F1 as the source voltage instead.

With regard to the circuit breaker, I wouldn't use a circuit breaker for this reason; the blower is a non-essential piece of hardware.  The car will run fine without it and weather conditions not withstanding, can operate safely without the blower motor being operational.  A semi critical system where I have see circuit breakers used might include semi-critical systems such as anti-lock brakes, head lamp circuits, hazard circuits, etc.  In these limited cases, the limited functionality of a damaged circuit is preferred to operating without the semi-critical circuit.
292
Electrical Tech / Protecting your blower motor switch (non-EATC)
Yeah Scott everything is fine, no worries. 

If I recall correctly, your last revision and Quietlef's are virtually identical, schematically speaking. As for the inclusion of F3 for some protection against inductive motor load, I assume that you are referring to the current surge by a collapsing inductive field.  A fuse is not a valid method of protection in such a case, as the amount of current surge induced in  typical DC motor would be far less than required to open F3, and would be completed by the time the fuse could react, assuming that the current would be high enough to trigger protection in the first place.  Milliseconds of higher than normal current, while certainly undesirable, are not something, in this case to be worried about.  We are attempting to protect a switch from excessive long term heat rather than a few milliseconds of high current with no voltage potential and some fairly high wattage resistors... oh yeah and ground. ;)

If you have a spare few moments, can you elaborate on the other circuits that F1 is providing protections for? What is their total current draw? For that matter, is F2 a new fuse?  If so,  what is the current draw of the motor in high?  Add about 500mA for the two relays (assuming Bosch 30A) and then we can size that F1 and F2 to actually protect the circuits.
293
General Fox T-Bird/Cougar Discussion / Show your fox bird or cougar sightings!!!
It might not really be as bad as it looks in these pictures, but the only real way to know for certain is a complete teardown, strip and assessment.  Virtually anything can be fixed, as long as their is a deep pocket, plenty of time and a strong unyielding spirit of determination.  I think I might offer the owner the opportunity to haul the thing off of their property and stop being an eyesore to their place of business. ;)
296
Lounge / So Much for Hi-Tech
Quote from: daminc;396133
if you get a mac.... well, what can I say..... it's a mac...mines almost 10 years old...still runs like a new one

My main computer is a Mac too, though only 4 years old. With the physical memory I have installed, I can run 6 virtual machines at the same time, as long as only one or two of them is some flavor of winblows. ;)

For those unfamiliar with virtual machines, here is a nice roundup... some of them are free.  I personally use the Mac version of the VMware product because it is virtually cross platform, no pun intended, and has provided me years of trouble free service.
297
Lounge / So Much for Hi-Tech
Why was the CD itself no longer usable?  Did it rely on some non-updated piece of software that won't run on newer operating systems and hardware? If so, you can always use a virtual machine to load old software on. Of course this is what happens when the decision to use proprietary or closed software is made with regard to resources like this.
298
Electrical Tech / Protecting your blower motor switch (non-EATC)
Quote from: jcassity;396100
the 15A fuse is back  as shown , good point.

I really dont know what to make of the rest of what you shared.  Current takes the path of least resistance.

why dont you trace out power and show me were this is wrong.
It mirrors the explorer layout.  Ford did the same job with 2 relays and so can we.


I am well versed in both whole flow and electron flow theories.  As an ET in the US Navy, I have repaired and replaced more fuses, switches, wiring and other circuitry than I care to remember.  Therefore, my understanding goes well beyond that of the typical shadetree mechanic and certainly beyond "path of least resistance".

Apparently, you have made some changes to your diagram subsequent to my last post, so it would appear that you came to understand my main points.

Yes, I agree that Ford did an adequate job of protecting the switch in the Explorer with only two relays, which is why I said that total protection using three relays was overkill in this application.

Lastly, tracing source voltage in the top half of the diagram, your primary relay, which I will call K1 and the "Heater Function Selector Switch" are now being protected by a 15 amp fuse instead of a 5 amp fuse, which I will refer to as F1. I have no idea of why you went back to a 15A fuse in this circuit, unless this fuse also protects other circuits not shown on this diagram.  However, as it is currently diagramed, and without anything to indicate otherwise, the 15 A fuse now only protects the "Heater Function Selector Switch and K1, which should as diagrammed only draw milliamps, just enough current to energize the relay K1. Therefore 15A is far too large a fuse for this circuit, as diagramed.

Source voltage on your secondary circuit, protected by a secondary fuse hereafter referred to as F2, flows through K1 and stops at the blower motor and the switched power side of your secondary relay, which I will call K2.  If the blower motor shorts, it "could" cause damage to the blower switch before the F2 opens to protect the circuit. 


Quote from: jcassity;396101
i am surprised you didnt notice "why" i put the inline fuse down stream of K2.


Maybe my eyes are not fully awake yet, but I failed to find a K2 label, but the moment, I'll make the assumption that it is your secondary relay. I still fail to see why the third fuse, which I will refer to as F3, is necessary or would open any faster than F2.  Perhaps you can explain your reasoning and why even Ford didn't need the third fuse to protect the circuit.
299
Engine Tech / raidator questions
I agree with everything you said Tom, but am a bit confused by your last statement.  It is my understanding that the orientation of the fins themselves isn't really the issue, but the flow of the coolant, vertical or horizontal, through the radiator.  Is my understanding correct or if not, could you elaborate further?
300
Electrical Tech / Protecting your blower motor switch (non-EATC)
Um, No.  This revision has  couple of problems and I have them listed in no particular order.

  • As diagramed, applying ground through the blower switch on both M1 and M2 positions, bypasses the thermal limiter and at least a portion of the resistor pack, which will increase current through the blower switch in both these positions.
  • With the blower switch in the high position AND applying ground through the blower switch, the secondary relay will either never energize, due to some lower source voltage (as measured at the top of the resister pack/bottom of the blower motor) or if it does energize, it will constantly cycle (chatter) due to the loss of voltage, since its voltage source is the same as the ground being applied to the bottom of the blower motor.
  • The new fuse (30A) inline with the resister pack is redundant as the circuit is already fused (30A) upstream of the blower motor and it's feed through the relay. 

The only way to completely protect the blower switch, which would be overkill in my opinion, would be to use three relays, one each for M1, M2 and High, used to pass grounds appropriately to the resistor pack (M1/M2) and bypassing it completely as the current revision does.  As Tom pointed out earlier, we sometimes tend to over complicate things unnecessarily.   

The source voltage for the secondary relay(s) should be the switched side of the heater function selector relay.

The best solution, thus far, would seem to be Quietleaf's last revision, but would need pins 4 & 6 his blower switch diagram switched for the blower switch to operate as I believe he intends, e.g. the M1 position resulting in a lower blower speed (more resistance) than the M2 position (less resistance).

I should make it clear that the switch current doesn't care whether or not the switch is switching ground or source voltage.  The current draw through the circuit and thus the switch is all that matters.

One final thought before I move on, is that with the heater function selector switch now only providing switched power to the heater function relay, is it really necessary or even desirable to fuse it with a 5 amp fuse?  What is the current draw on that relay and does that same fuse provide power to another circuit on on this diagram?