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Topic: Hi beam and Lo beam question (Read 7654 times) previous topic - next topic

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #90 –
Quote from: Trinom;407167
Jay, I really don't see any problem with my mod. There might be a conflict with your setup, which doesn't correspond with EVTM, but I really don't remember your each mod.

Can you explain me, what's wrong on my mod?

I can keep this simple.
scroll back and you will see where i addressed and installed and showed pics of your mod in work.
When your mod is installed, with headlamp switch off, with auto lamp thumb wheel off, as soon as i turn the ignition switch forward, the headlamps come on.

I have defered to Foe about my findings on a situation.
When i have auto lamps off and i manually select headlamps, one of the auto lamp relays energize.  This qualifies as a "false" statement when we look at the wiring diagram and therefore it is where i belive the conflict may exist.
You can closely inspect my "trinom" mod and see how i performed it.  The picture was taken such that you can see the jumpers i installed and where along with the diodes.
Again, your mod was installed with  no other mods installed as a stand alone first time modification.

its my belief that this as something to do with ford Dead Ending a red / yellow conductor at the connector above the fuse box which is the reason for page 1, post 1  !! and following discussion on this specific wire's purpose.

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #91 –
You didn't get it. The inline diode is protecting the circuit against reverse current going from your headlamp switch. The diode between rellay anode and cathode is protecting the circuit against the relay power off peaks.



If you look at the others circuit diagrams on previous pages, all of them have the first diode in the same way as I have.


PS: I hope you connected them the right way

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #92 –
But the problem is that it doesn't NEED protection from relay power off peaks.  The car lived without it this long and it wasn't until modification that the module ever received ANY kind of damage.  The damage it DID receive could have been prevented by the inline diode in the relay command circuit alone. the second diode crossing over from the adjacent circuit is superfluous.  I do see how it's supposed to work, however I also see how it always worked without it.

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #93 –
I don't see this diode superfluous at all. I really like idiot proof circuit designs, because it may save your ass in case you do something stupid. I don't know the ford relay design, but some rellays have this diode built in. Then you don't need it.

The first diode is a must for your mods.

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #94 –
J, your clicking relay is the managed/un-managed illumination relay for your digital speedo.  It's in the same mounting cluster. I suspected, and then verified by way of my Mac test light. all the other relays in the area per your test specifications are not being actuated.  The relay is at rest in the 100% power position, and when the headlamp switch is changed at all, the relay actuates to power the speedo illumination with power from the panel dimmer instead.

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #95 –
Quote from: Trinom;407174
I don't see this diode superfluous at all. I really like idiot proof circuit designs, because it may save your ass in case you do something stupid. I don't know the ford relay design, but some rellays have this diode built in. Then you don't need it.

The first diode is a must for your mods.

The ford relays include a resistor.  I can give a pic if you like. The exception is the dimmer relay (hi-lo) which has a diode as illustrated in the diagram.  But yes, the inline diode is the key to the module's survival, and the current iteration of the mod includes it.

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #96 –
ok foe, i will back out of your mod and into the oem layout then re-confirm.
i understand the instrumentation relay coming on ,, its the second click that concerns me,  i have all my relays hanging like grapes, not mounted, i will re-confirm but i know im not going crazy here,, lets hope im wrong.

lets not rule out what softtouch said on page 1 either in that I may have a wiring problem from the previous owner.

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #97 –
your mod trinom made the isolation of the amplifier more protected than expected and thats always a good thing.

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #98 –
Quote from: Trinom;407172
You didn't get it.

pls roll back to page 7, post 65 to view the pictures so you can see how i performed your mod, i thank you again, pls advise if any questions, i installed as drawn.

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #99 –
Oh, I forgot that the violet/orange wire isn't permanent ground, but it's switched. If you attach anode of that diode to pemanent ground (black wire of the rellay for example) it must work fine. Please try it.

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #101 –
The first pic is the terminated leads I used to pin into the switch, I had them left over from an ignition switch kit.  The second is 13 and 15 pulled from the switch. The solder is where my remote start feeds the park lamps, I was going to put that elsewhere, but I realized it's already slaved in it's own module, so I recovered it and left it where it was.  The third is the heatshrink seal tubing I used to protect the terminals.  I was going to use waxed heatshrink tubing, but I decided that would be too hard to reverse later if there were problems.
XXX

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #102 –
First pic is the new pins in the connector, they literally are the same as the ignition switch.  (J, as a note to you, these types of connector you don't pry the tab up and pull, you push it DOWN and pull, try it and you'll see what I mean)  Second pic is the diode holders and jumpers in place by the relays, the inline holders and the mini fuse style diodes really are a neat serviceable package.  Last is Foe'sMod diagrammed as I installed it.  If you didn't know better you'd never guess that anything had been changed by the way it operates. Fully slaved, minimal added parts. As a side note, when in manual on mode, my headlights are somewhat brighter like they always were before on autolamps. Bonus!
XXX

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #103 –
Quote from: Trinom;407183
Oh, I forgot that the violet/orange wire isn't permanent ground, but it's switched. If you attach anode of that diode to pemanent ground (black wire of the rellay for example) it must work fine. Please try it.

tried it
results as you described with the second diode anonde connected to auto lamp 2 ground.
test results are different now.
-with auto lamp off , KOER, with main headlamp switch off i have no exterior lamps illuminated.~pass
-when i go to the manual lamp switch and select the middle position picking exterior marker lamps, i get marker lamps and headlamps. ~fail
 just an update so you know, im pretty sure you are as interested as i am as to why, have not had time to investigate the "why" part.

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #104 –
Quote from: TheFoeYouKnow;407175
J, your clicking relay is the managed/un-managed illumination relay for your digital speedo.  It's in the same mounting cluster. I suspected, and then verified by way of my Mac test light. all the other relays in the area per your test specifications are not being actuated.  The relay is at rest in the 100% power position, and when the headlamp switch is changed at all, the relay actuates to power the speedo illumination with power from the panel dimmer instead.

ok, here goes,, calling you out man (in a friendly manner pls understand)
I have made the claim that one of the auto lamp relays is energized when in manual headlamp switch mode even when the auto lamp system is off.
You have made the verified check to indicate that i am not correct so i re-tested and here are my results and proof that you may want to double check.
Again, this isnt my dick is longer than yours or anything.....  its a prudent observation and in good stewardship of knowing as much as we can know about something "before we do it".

ok here goes
per below with auto lamps off and the main headlamp switch flipped to "marker lamps", power appears on relay 2 brown wire due to back feed.
~per my recolection and my re-test just now the results were the same.
Per below with auto lamps off and main headlamp switch is moved up to headlamps, backfeed power appears on the coil input of relay2 and it energizes "click".
~per my recolectoin and my re-test just now the results were the same.
~~~with a common ground to both relays k1 and k2, both relays are subject to a back feed from the activities taking place on the manual lamp switch!!!!!
~~~this may have something to do with trinoms mod not working, it also **MUST have something to do with the dead end red/yellow i find per post 1 page 1 which deserves some understanding as to why.
so,, i have to ask you if you can check your system again because it is only prudent you be completely and acutely aware of how your doing this mod.
You stated you tested all these relays and while your auto lamps are off and you are using just the main light switch, neither auto lamp energizes.. you may have a wiring problem or were looking at this the wrong way,,dono,, pls confirm again.

Can you please undo your work and revert back to oem wiring to confirm, im sure you designed your layout to be seamlessly backed out of,,, or after glancing at the pics,, did you hard solder things in a way that makes that not an option?  I think you would extract your diodes from the sockets and install a paper clip temporary for now. 

where do i buy some of those inline diodes>?

If ford were to rethink this, they may put a blocking diode to prevent this issue as i see it is an engineering error. this diode would be between k1 load and dimmer relay conductor.

speak up man,, its impossible for you to **not** have power on K2 with *auto lamps off and your K2 should also energize like mine.