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Topic: Hi beam and Lo beam question (Read 8037 times) previous topic - next topic

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #45 –
Here are the values. C is cathode, A is anode.

.........on......off
pin1:..5,9.....5,9
D1C:...14.......0
D1A:...14.....15,8
D2C:...5,1.....5,1
D2A:....0........0
D3C:...5,1......0
D3A:..1,25.....0,5
D4C:..13,4....15,1
D4A:..14,1....15,8
D5C:..13,5....15,2
D5A:..14,1....15,8

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #46 –
Quote from: TheFoeYouKnow;406237
Figure 1.
This is from 88, but it's the same as 87.  I used 88 because my scans are clearer than yours. What we're doing is pulling circuits 14 and 15 off of the headlight switch. You can do this anyway you want, but because for the moment I'm telling you what to think, what you should do is cut both the red/yellow wires a couple inches from the connector and then join them together.  At the connector, you'll connect a length of wire to R/Y (it won't be carrying more than a few hundred mA now so it won't need to be very big) and splice to circuit 218 near Autolamp#1 relay. Autolamp#1, when energized, sends power down circuit to both Autolamp#2 primary and to feed the dimmer relay which in turn powers the headlights.  Autolamp#2, when energized by Autolamp#1, sends power down circuit to circuit 14 (running lights).  The system, with the addition of 1 wire and 1 splice, is now completely slaved and will function as stock. EDIT: right now this is not working. It may require a diode in the jumper.
X

 

I am intersted in picking this back up because in all rights, FOE is correct , I should not have to add slave relays for headlamps that already have slave relays.
as illustrated, can anyone see a solution here that would place a blocking diode at the auto lamp relay output? and keep the modification exaclty as foe has drawn?  The diode placement would be as shown which would enable the amplifier to put out power without concern of the possibility of getting an input.

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #48 –
LOL,, ive been living it for what seems forever,, cant wait to see what your thoughts are other than a relay.

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #49 –
This should be able to trigger park lamps without triggering headlamps while also providing a path to backfeed the IP lights, in addition to being able to trigger the headlamps AND park lamps together with or without the autolamps ALSO on without blowing up another transistor.  Transparent operation. IN THEORY. Feedback?

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #50 –
The way I see it, the Autolamp2 Relay Diode needs to be able to carry 5A to feed the IP lights (5A is equal to the IP lights fuse).  The Autolamps1 Relay Diode doesn't need to carry nearly as much current.

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #51 –
agreed, i recommend the lowest possible fuse for activation testing... i have some telecom "70G" and "GMT" fuses that go as low as 1/16th of an amp to protect the amplifier,, not that it will though.
i think i have a few 1/64th amp as well.
just google "gmt fuse"

now to get other heads on this  and which direction to position the diode(s).

im gonna button up my interior tomorrow during my breaks,may take my work out there with me.

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #52 –
Quote from: TheFoeYouKnow;406874
I've been thinking on this a lot,
X

 
i take it you took some time to dig into those goofy brown wires and what they do,, meaing what one of them does vs the other?
i had some time this morn to stare at this. 
food for thought,  we need to think through what happens when a diode shorts... odds are slim we may think but my collector to base on the transistor q2 shorted.. so it is a probable fault.

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #53 –
whaoo, i just had a thought>> amazing!

it never occured to me to pay attention to what "someone" said a while back but think it through from a different angle.

so,,,
i will provide heat readings on the main headlamp switch while in auto lamp mode.
I know for a fact the heat sync on the main headlamp switch gets hot while in the manual headlamp mode.

useful or not, it is more information.

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #54 –
This should make it a little easier to see what the relays are doing.  As for the diodes and their possible failure modes, I don't know diodes beyond what they do ie: electrical check valve.  Naturally I hope I can lean on you to decide if diodes are going to be a viable solution. The alternative, as you have said, may be to install a fuse behind the relay1 diode.  Circuit 14 powers the park lamps and activates the switchover relay that switches the digital speedo from full illumination from main power to managed illumination by the dimmer wheel.
X

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #55 –
i like your layout better.
for the fuse,, im not really sure the low amperage that is technically needed would be readily available to the average consumer... that part concerns me.  i forgot to put my meter in series with the "relay output" while testing to measure the actual current supply but its its gonna be likely .00xA and maybe at highest .0xxA.


thats all you really need to know ,, its a check valve but, here is what you can take away today knowing the kind of work your challenged with at work, it may come in handy.... hope i get this right,,,,, my electronics "specifics" may be a tad rusty.

diodes typically come in two types.
silicone~
characteristics..
-will have .6v to .7v difference using your meter reading one side and then the other while installed in a live ckt.
-the silicone is "doped" with arsenic , from the periodic table arsenic has 5 electrons available on its valence shell (K shell)
-lifting one leg and using your meter set to ohms, the diode should read "something" one way and open the other.
~"something usually means around 600 to 700 ohms or kohms.  the reason for this is that you are actually using your onboard meter 12v battery as source and theroretically, you have a series ckt ,, therefore your seeing a proportional voltage drop across the diode but its displayed on the meter as ohms cause you chose that part of ohms law.

~Germanium diode
characteristics~ same funcion as silicone..but
-will have .3v to .4v drop or difference on either side while installed in a live ckt.
-the germanium is doped with boron and from the periodic table, boron has 3 electrons availble in the valence shell... less conductive but does have its application.

speaking to transistors,,,,,, they are treated the same with an ohm meter reading from base to collector and base to emitter flipping your leads either way.
Knowing the orientation of a diode and how it "allows" your meter to pass power through it, you can determine a couple things.....
-if its good or not with 95% accuracy
-if its a PNP or an NPN.

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #56 –
How about a current limiting resistor in the jumper before the splice?  We still use the diode to protect the Amp, but we also control the current being fed to the splice, that way, should the diode short, the module can't suck up a ton of current, just maybe 100mA (more than enough to energize the relay which will need about 60mA)

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #57 –
Sounds good to me

Hi beam and Lo beam question

Reply #58 –
are we ready to piddle with the new mod "with the diodes"?  im volunteering now  : ),,, since i didnt get time to button up the car, i figured its easy as 1 2 3 to introduce this mod into a system.  Hell ,, someones gotta try it.

here is trinom's suggested diode layout which is bass akwards from the way i thought they should go in to the live bi directional circuit.
my gut keeps telling me i want to protect the middle pin from getting an input.