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Topic: Blue by You - TC+4 (Read 40871 times) previous topic - next topic

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #135
I have some time alone this Friday night, so I plan to change the oil and try to diagnose the rough running and slight miss...

It almost feels like a cylinder is not right.  Here is what I have diagnosed so far:
1. Fuel Pressure is at 40-41psi at idle with the vacuum line disconnected.  It took a few seconds after startup to get to that psi, but it was holding steady at idle.
2. Compression test on all cylinders was 145 psi +/- 2 psi
3. Manifold Vacuum reading 15-16 Hg at idle (1,000 rpms). Rock steady needle.
4. I pulled the plugs and they all look great
5. I listened to each injector through a stethoscope and could hear the consistent clicking

Steps for diagnosis...
1. Run codes again.  KOEO and KOER tests
2. Pull spark plug wires individually to see if I can identify a cylinder that makes less difference
3. Pull the valve covers and make sure all rockers are in place.  Rotate the engine to ensure lift is consistent.
4. Leakdown test?

I don't want to just start throwing parts at this thing.  I want to truly diagnose the root cause...

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #136
Hmm. Firing order correct for this cam? Plug wires ohm check the same? Advance set properly?

That's just from the top of my head. I wish we were closer I'd come help you out (if I could).

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #137
Man, I would love to have your help on this.  I just hope it is something simple

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #138
If you have a laser temp gun, shoot the header tubes individually and see if one is running cooler.  Will help diagnose a misfire.
1988 T-Bird Sport Coupe--5.0 HO, MAF swap, 1-5/8" shorties, BBK/Flowmaster exhaust, Explorer intake, 70mm Edelbrock TB, T5, B&M short throw, Centerforce clutch and PP, disc brake TC rear w/ 3.55's, TC front brakes, '98 Cobra springs, DIY SFC's, other misc .  14.05 @ 98mph with launching too low and shifting too high.

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #139
Dan B. - good suggestion.  I need to invest in an IR temp gun for sure.  I guess now is my opportunity. :)

Here is a really poor sound quality video of me accelerating in the car.  Tough to pickup on the roughness...


Here is a cold startup video.  Again, hard to pickup the slight miss/roughness...

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #140
Unfortunately I get nothing from watching those. Sorry.

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #141
Alright.  Last night a got a few things done...

- Changed the oil and filter.  5W-30 Valvoline and Motorcraft FL-1A oil filter.
- Replaced the harmonic balancer with the FRPP one.  Man what a difference that made in the vibration department.  The engine seems to not have the vibration is used to between 1,500 rpms and 2,000 rpms.  But the engine still doesn't feel 100%.
- Pulled the valve covers to see if any funny business going on with the rockers and valves.  All seemed good except that the front passenger side rocker washiznitting the valve cover baffle.  I clearanced the baffle and checked/reinstalled the rocker.
- As I was pulling the upper intake, I noticed an open vacuum port on the intake tree!  Plugged that one up and reran the vacuum test on the engine - now vacuum is 17 Hg at idle.  Getting better...
- Once the upper intake was off, I noticed some fuel in the upper intake.  Could that be? A leaking injector?  But how did it make it to the upper intake?
- I checked all the spark plug wires resistance, including the coil wire, and all were within the 10,000 to 15,000 Ohms per foot.
- I did buy a Laser Thermometer and all exhaust ports were similar at 500-525 deg F after full warmup.

I'm beginning to suspect injectors.  These were used injectors that I cleaned and installed new filters, pintle caps and o-rings.  I wonder if some bad fuel got in them from the car sitting so long.

I will drive the car some more and re-run codes.  I'm not sure what else it could be.


Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #143
I wish I had an idea for you on the rough running. Having the  injectors cleaned and checked sounds like something that can't hurt.

I had mine done because I didn't trust old ones.

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #144
Alright.  This is for others who have done the V8 swap into the TurboCoupe...  A wiring diagram and some pictures of how I did it...

The wiring diagram:


Fuel Pump Relay to EEC connector (I made this one up on my own):


Fuel Pump Relay and EEC connector to existing TC connector to inertia switch and fuel pump wiring:


Picture of where I put my Fuel Pump Relay:


Thanks,
Jon

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #145
Keeping track of my next ToDo's here:
- Replace VSS speedometer gear with either 21 or 23 tooth to work with TC 3.73 gears.
- Replace shifter and cable assembly with replacement.
Fuel system upgrades to hopefully solve the rough running/miss condition:
- New Motorcraft Fuel Filter
- Replace injectors with known good ones
- Install Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator (Kirban)
- Install Liquid-filled Fuel Pressure Gauge on the Fuel rail and adjust fuel pressure to 39psi with vacuum feed disconnected

I really need to get my 4R70W transmission ready to go in this thing.  Because the AOD is not shifting well.

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #146
OK.  I pulled the Upper intake off again to get access to the fuel rails to replace the injectors.  And as I was pulling it off, I saw raw fuel in the upper intake?!

I have a good hunch that the stock fuel pressure regulator (FPR) diaphram must have a hole in it!  I assume the intake has been sucking fuel from the vacuum line in the FPR.

I have a new Kirban on order.  So hopefully that is the source of my miss/rough running!!!!!

I can't wait to get the fuel system back together to hopefully feel a difference!

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #147
Quote from: The Shredder;371846
OK.  I pulled the Upper intake off again to get access to the fuel rails to replace the injectors.  And as I was pulling it off, I saw raw fuel in the upper intake?!

I have a good hunch that the stock fuel pressure regulator (FPR) diaphram must have a hole in it!  I assume the intake has been sucking fuel from the vacuum line in the FPR.

I have a new Kirban on order.  So hopefully that is the source of my miss/rough running!!!!!


I can't wait to get the fuel system back together to hopefully feel a difference!


That sounds VERY likely, Shredder.

I bet you get a difference right away.  Fingers crossed for ya.

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #148
There's your problem :).

At this point you could get away with a stock FPR. I'm running a stock Motorcraft FPR with 24lb injectors and a C&L MAF with no problems.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #149
Alright.  Got the replacement fuel injectors, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, fuel pressure gauge (adjusted to 39 psi) and new Motorcraft PCV valve installed.  While I was back there, I hooked up the heater hoses so now I have heat for the winter.

I also fixed and adjusted the floor shifter assembly so all the detents are in line with the shifter now.  And I installed the 23 tooth speedometer gear - so hopefully my speedometer is more accurate.  I'll have to drive by the digital speed sign.

Got everything back together and took the car for a test drive and the engine seems to be a bit smoother and a little more power.  Still a little vibration/ roughness right off idle to about 1,500 rpms.

The check engine light came on right when I pulled in the garage.  So I ran the codes and got a 41.  My right o2 sensor might be bad, or a wiring problem on the right (passenger) side.  I plan to get a new o2 sensor and double-check to o2 harness wiring.

Once I get code 41 figured out... gonna drive this thing for a while.  I need to get the dash and console back together.