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Topic: Blue by You - TC+4 (Read 41999 times) previous topic - next topic

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #105 –
Thanks Nytedragon...

I cut the original column shifted TV lever, flipped one end around, clearanced it with the new shift lever and transmission case and had it welded together.

If you can find a mustang transmission that would be good, but then the shift lever is too short for a Thunderbird floor shifter throw.  So that is why I went with the adjustable Lokar AOD shift lever.

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #106 –
Quote from: flylear45;366948
That ought to do it. Looks like new.

 
I did get the Heat / A/C box back together last night ready for install.  But before I can install it, I need to re-solder the EVP, CANP, TAB, TAD resistors into the EEC harness.  Hopefully I can get to that this afternoon.

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #107 –
Alright.  I made some progress this weekend.  It was beautiful weather and I got the yardwork done in time to spend some time on the car Saturday.

- Got the EEC resistors soldered in and retaped and installed to the computer.
- Revamped the PRC ride control wiring and installed it.  I don't have the brake pressure switch hooked up on my new vacuum assisted brakes, so hopefully that won't impact the PRC function.
- Installed the heat/ac box.  But I forgot to put in the sound deadening insulation to cover the computer and wiring.  Hopefully I can slide it in there after the heater box is installed.

Next up...  Install the dash!!!  Once that is in, I will reconnect everything and make sure the car will still start. :)

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #108 –
Alright.  I got the dash back in and all the wires hooked back up.  The car still starts!

There are a few things to diagnose though...
1. I temporarily hooked up the EATC head unit to see if any error codes showed up.  No error codes which is good, but the blower wouldn't turn on no matter what button I pushed (low, med, high).  Hmmm.  Hoping it is a fuse, connector or ground issue.
2. I hooked up the system sentry system and the check oil light is on.  I didn't wire in the low oil warning sensor in the oil pan.  So I have to either wire that in or trick it somehow.

Everything else seems to be OK.

Now the race to get this thing drivable!

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #109 –
To make it driveable:
- Adjust toe-in/out
- Re-install front swaybar
- Adjust shifter cable
- Install driveshaft

- Fabricate/Install cat-back exhaust. This may take a while. So I might have to test drive it with open h-pipe. :)

- Check fluids
- Test Drive!

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #110 –
Quote from: The Shredder;367911
- Fabricate/Install cat-back exhaust. This may take a while. So I might have to test drive it with open h-pipe. :)

- Check fluids
- Test Drive!

An open H-pipe is going to be insanely loud lol, but I've had to do it as well. Looks like your project is coming along nicely!
FOXLESS!!

1994 Lincoln Mark VIII

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #111 –
Sounds like you are getting close to enjoying it. Keep on plugging!

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #112 –
Whoo wee lookin' good, lotsa work, way more than I did LOL(but all systems work on mine including the ABS)...

Sorry I missed this thread earlier(been AWOL), probably could have given you a few pointers... My AOD shifter/cable is from a Sport parts car I had, so everything I needed for the swap was robbed from it...

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #113 –
Quote from: The Shredder;367910
Alright.  I got the dash back in and all the wires hooked back up.  The car still starts!

There are a few things to diagnose though...
1. I temporarily hooked up the EATC head unit to see if any error codes showed up.  No error codes which is good, but the blower wouldn't turn on no matter what button I pushed (low, med, high).  Hmmm.  Hoping it is a fuse, connector or ground issue.
2. I hooked up the system sentry system and the check oil light is on.  I didn't wire in the low oil warning sensor in the oil pan.  So I have to either wire that in or trick it somehow.

Everything else seems to be OK.

Now the race to get this thing drivable!

1. Check the wiring. If the blower worked before it should work now.
2. The light could be on because the engine may not be full of oil. I had a low oil level sensor in my car that leaked. Instead of paying over $30 for a new one I bought a $2 bolt and washer and replaced it. I just unplugged the sensor wiring from the harness and the light has never come on since I removed the sensor.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #114 –
Low oil sensor is grounded when 'ON'. It is a WH/PK wire that comes through a gray 4-pin connector behind the LH top rear of the engine to a relay that lights the light. Make sure it isn't connected to anything and it should be out.

If that fails you can snip the gray wire feeding the indicator.

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #115 –
The engine has oil... I shouldn't have the W/PK wire hooked up to anything at the moment, because I definitely don't have the sensor in the oil pan hooked up.  I'll double check it though.  Thanks for the tip.

I don't really want to have to pull the dash again if the blower motor isn't going to work!!!!

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #116 –
Quote from: The Shredder;368005
The engine has oil... I shouldn't have the W/PK wire hooked up to anything at the moment, because I definitely don't have the sensor in the oil pan hooked up.  I'll double check it though.  Thanks for the tip.

I don't really want to have to pull the dash again if the blower motor isn't going to work!!!!

 

There's a big fat 2-connector plug near the bottom of the blower housing with heavy gauge wires. Check that first. To test the motor you can run ground and power straight to the motor through that plug. It'll spin no matter which way you connect it.

If it spins then there's a wiring/fuse/power/ground issue. I can look at the schematic for you if it keeps giving you issues.

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #117 –
Alright.  I had time, in between conference calls, to go out and test the blower motor by hardwiring it to another battery I had.  Good news!  The blower motor works.  So it must be a fuse, ground or connector somewhere.  Whew.

I need some additional time today to debug these two issues.  Darn work getting in the way. :)

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #118 –
Quote from: The Shredder;368009
Alright.  I had time, in between conference calls, to go out and test the blower motor by hardwiring it to another battery I had.  Good news!  The blower motor works.  So it must be a fuse, ground or connector somewhere.  Whew.

I need some additional time today to debug these two issues.  Darn work getting in the way. :)

Good news!

I'll look at the EVTM tomorrow AM and see what I think is next up for checking.

Blue by You - TC+4

Reply #119 –
Hey flylear.  Thanks for the tips and help!

I figured out what the problem was with the Check Oil light...  I accidently had it connected to the signal return wire in the black 8 pin plug just behind the driver's strut tower that connects the EEC harness with the dash harness.  Oops!!!!  It might have affected the way the EEC interpreted the sensor signals.  Maybe the engine will run even better now. :)

So check oil light is knocked off the to do list.  Now onto the blower motor...

Also, I was just double checking the wiring for the transmission.  I'm not exactly sure how to wire the EEC Pin 30 (Automatic transmission in P or N).  I assume this is just to help the EEC to know to bump up the idle in gear?