Blue by You - TC+4 Reply #120 – September 21, 2011, 08:14:08 PM I do not belive that it bumps up the idle in gear. Prbably just part of the nss or maybe vss. Quote Selected
Blue by You - TC+4 Reply #121 – September 21, 2011, 09:21:10 PM Quote from: The Shredder;368052Hey flylear. Thanks for the tips and help!I figured out what the problem was with the Check Oil light... I accidently had it connected to the signal return wire in the black 8 pin plug just behind the driver's strut tower that connects the EEC harness with the dash harness. Oops!!!! It might have affected the way the EEC interpreted the sensor signals. Maybe the engine will run even better now. :)So check oil light is knocked off the to do list. Now onto the blower motor...Also, I was just double checking the wiring for the transmission. I'm not exactly sure how to wire the EEC Pin 30 (Automatic transmission in P or N). I assume this is just to help the EEC to know to bump up the idle in gear? I am not sure what the purpose is on the pin 30 wire at the EEC, but it is wired the exact same for 2.3, 3.8, and 5.0 engines. A BR/W wire comes off the ignition switch where it was met from the transmission starter lockout (R/LB wire) circuit.So, you should have to do nothing with it if I'm thinking right. There should already be a wire there.I'll look over your blower motor schematic next. Quote Selected
Blue by You - TC+4 Reply #122 – September 21, 2011, 09:58:24 PM One other helpful hint... I didn't connect the defroster connector to the back of the EATC had unit. Let me do that and see if any change... Quote Selected
Blue by You - TC+4 Reply #123 – September 21, 2011, 10:31:02 PM Blower motor problem solved! I guess I forgot to attach the Blower Motor Speed Controller. That will do it every time!I am SOOOO sorry I had you on a wild goose chase flylear. It was my own stupid mistake. That connector is pretty hidden once the dash is installed. But I found a spare six pin plug that didn't fit the EATC, Sentry System or the Radio. So I went looking. Tada! Quote Selected
Blue by You - TC+4 Reply #124 – September 21, 2011, 11:00:56 PM Alright. Remember, I have the 88 TC 2.3 Dash harness, with a 93 Mustang 5.0 EEC harness, and a 88 Cougar 5.0 O2 harness. So....According to the 93 Mustang EVTM, I need to connect the BR/W wire from the TC Dash harness to the W/P wire in the Mustang EEC harness at Connector C110. Then I need to create a loop wire in the Cougar O2 harness (C101 - see circles in diagram) from W/P to LB/Y which should go to Pin 30 at the EEC.What a nightmare! I already have the BR/W going to W/P at C110, but need to create a loop wire in the O2 harness. I remember reading something about Mustang automatic vs. manual O2 harnesses. It looks like this loop is the difference. Quote Selected
Blue by You - TC+4 Reply #125 – September 22, 2011, 10:13:19 AM BR/W goes straight to the EEC. All set there. The R/LB at plug C501 on the 2.3 harness needs to go to the W/P at C110 on the Cougar harness. Done. Quote Selected
Blue by You - TC+4 Reply #126 – September 26, 2011, 01:37:29 AM Alright. I did a little more research on the o2 harnesses and the EEC-IV computers. According the thread on corral.net, here are the details on the o2 harness configurations for 5 spd vs auto:The wires for the 02's and low oil did not change throughout the years, they are all in the same place.The main ones you need to worry about are (on the harness end (ECU) that plugs into the 02 plug) is:- 1. Lightblue / yellow- 2. White / Purple- 3. Purple / YellowThe White/Purple & Purple/Yellow gets looped for a automatic ECUThe Purple/Yellow & Lightblue/Yellow for a manual ECUThread:http://forums.corral.net/forums/general-mustang-tech/1094179-oxygen-sensor-harnesses-manual-auto-differences-year-differences.html Quote Selected
Blue by You - TC+4 Reply #127 – September 26, 2011, 08:32:38 AM Shredder, I read through the 7 pages. Most of it doesn't apply to you. When I look at the circuit, I see 12v sent to two places through the ignition switch when in START. ONLY in START.1. 12v to the starter after going through the starter cutout circuit2. 12v to the EEC via pin 30 So, let's look at those circuits;First, the starter circuit is passed through the NSS (neutral safety switch) carried by the R/LB to W/PK in the 2.3 harness and Coug harnesses to the starter solenoid. The EEC circuit is carried by the BR/W to the LB/Y in the EEC harness.It's pretty straight forward.You just want to check pin 46 on your EEC with the computer disconnected while cranking. If you see 12v, then you need to do something. Otherwise, you are all set.I think you may be making this too hard. (Or I am not getting it, which is possible.) Quote Selected
Blue by You - TC+4 Reply #128 – September 26, 2011, 09:49:06 AM Quote from: flylear45;368455I think you may be making this too hard. (Or I am not getting it, which is possible.) I agree, if I remember correctly except for the speed sensor input, I made all my connections in the engine compartment... The speed sensor was actually a goof on my part, there are connections in one of the plugs near the wiper motor... I did pull the plenum to repl the heater core(just swung dash out onto console with passenger seat removed) but touched nothing else inside the dash...My engine harness is from a '87 Sport that I modified for mass air prior to instillation, also added the speed sensor connections... My 02 harness is from a LSC Lincoln that had a HO... All plumbing(fuel lines) and wiring was completed prior to engine/tranny install, dropped them in connected everything and fired it up... Quote Selected
Blue by You - TC+4 Reply #129 – October 08, 2011, 10:33:10 PM Alright! I hooked up the driveshaft... Temporarily installed some mustang mid-pipes with rotted lers for the time being. The car is still LOUD, but better than the open h-pipe.I put on the 15" turbine wheels from the 88 cougar, since the tires on my snowflakes are bubbling. I topped off the transmission with fluid and took it for a spin!!!!! Man this stock AOD is a SLUSHBOX!I had time to give the car a needed bath and took some pics... Quote Selected
Blue by You - TC+4 Reply #130 – October 08, 2011, 10:41:27 PM Alright. Some smoke is still coming from the tail pipes. I'm hoping it was just some left over oil or something from the engine overhaul. I will continue to drive a while and monitor the smokiness.I got the Check Engine light today... I ran the KOEO test and got 67 and 85.67: Neutral Drive Switch (NDS) circuit failure, circuit open; or A/C input high85: Canister Purge Solenoid circuit failureI obviously have some wiring bugs to still work out! But the car seems to drive fairly well. Quote Selected
Blue by You - TC+4 Reply #131 – October 08, 2011, 10:53:20 PM Quote from: TurboCoupe50;368458I agree, if I remember correctly except for the speed sensor input, I made all my connections in the engine compartment... The speed sensor was actually a goof on my part, there are connections in one of the plugs near the wiper motor... I did pull the plenum to repl the heater core(just swung dash out onto console with passenger seat removed) but touched nothing else inside the dash...My engine harness is from a '87 Sport that I modified for mass air prior to instillation, also added the speed sensor connections... My 02 harness is from a LSC Lincoln that had a HO... All plumbing(fuel lines) and wiring was completed prior to engine/tranny install, dropped them in connected everything and fired it up... I appreciate both of your input on the wiring. But I am NOT using a Thunderbird Sport EEC/Engine harness. If I had it would have been SO much easier! Unfortunately, I sold my cougar engine harness not realizing that it is so much different than the Mustang EEC/Engine harness. SOOOOO. I have adapted the mustang harness and that is why the wiring is difficult. Quote Selected
Blue by You - TC+4 Reply #132 – October 09, 2011, 05:27:55 AM Did you check the signal at pin 46?Pretty cool that you got it motivating under it's own power! Quote Selected
Blue by You - TC+4 Reply #133 – October 16, 2011, 06:11:22 PM Soooooo, what's up, doc? Quote Selected
Blue by You - TC+4 Reply #134 – October 16, 2011, 08:40:19 PM OK. I had a chance to create a little loop wire in the O2 harness to connect the start circuit to the EEC pin 30. And now the car starts and idles much better. The car seems to run less rich than before at startup and initial idle. So knock the KOEO error 67 off the list. I still need to wire in a 75 Ohm resistor to eliminate the Purge Canister error code.The engine exhaust thankfully stopped smoking, and the engine does seem to run much better. But it still seems to run a little rough and feels like a very slight miss.Here is what I'm thinking...1. I need to further "break-in" the engine with some continued short full-throttle bursts to seat the rings.2. Change the oil from 30w to Synthetic 5w-30 and FL-1A filter3. Replace the front harmonic balancer with a stock style to rule out that for the engine roughness.4. Buy moates.net chip kit and tune the A3M1 computerI hope to have some time this week to make progress... Quote Selected
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