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Topic: Running!!! - With Qwuirks... (Read 17048 times) previous topic - next topic

Running!!! - With Qwuirks...

Reply #75
For spark, I see blue-white.
As for not running, I'm guessing again, fual or timing. Do you have a timing light you can test it with?

Running!!! - With Qwuirks...

Reply #76
Nope, No timing light. :mad:

I forgot to check the shrader thinger, I'll go do that.
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~

Running!!! - With Qwuirks...

Reply #77
Quote from: jcassity;164832


If you undo the little plastic cap on the fuel test area (shrader valve) after you just get done cranking,, poke the little needle in there and fuel should spray every fu%$ing where if you are getting fuel.  If it dribbles out and you just got done cranking,, somethings up with fuel.




also,,,,,,, you did not undo and criss cross any plug wires did you?


It doesnt jet stream out but it pours/waterfalls out.

And no, double checked that already. :hick:
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~

Running!!! - With Qwuirks...

Reply #78
Your not getting enough fuel pressure. If it's dribbling, it's not nearly enough. I belive it should be in the round about of 40 PSI

Running!!! - With Qwuirks...

Reply #79
it's not really dribbling, It just pours like if you poor a drink.

But yea, Looks like fuel injection is (one) of the problems.

I just manually put some gas in the carb intake thinger and it ran until it burned up the gas or whatever, Ran longer and stronger than with the starter fluid sprays.

So now the question is...
Is the whiole CFI Setup needing to be replaced? Or is it something electrical/relay/injectors? Or is it the fuel pump?

I'm getting odd voltage readings from the fuel injectors power connector/s...
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~

Running!!! - With Qwuirks...

Reply #80
Well. I'll wait for scot to answer this one. But if your pressure is shiznit, my guess would be the fuel pump. Unless the regualter is serisouly wacked up.

Running!!! - With Qwuirks...

Reply #81
Alright, Thanks a lot man!
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~

Running!!! - With Qwuirks...

Reply #82
Double check my oppion, but I'd say that's the problem is something in one of the fuel pumps.

Anytime man, you ever need anything holler at me

Running!!! - With Qwuirks...

Reply #83
Yea, I'll go over my manuals and look into the fuel system.
I hear a fuel pump initiate but isn't there 2 of them or something?

And i have a strong feeling the wooshing might be coming from pressure escaping from one of the fuel lines, I'll look into it.
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~

Running!!! - With Qwuirks...

Reply #84
If pressure was escaping, you would have leaking gas. Yes, in 84 you had 2 pumps like me. A high pressure in line pump on the passanger side, in front of the rear wheel on the frame rail. You also have a low pressure " pusher" pump in tank.

Running!!! - With Qwuirks...

Reply #85
Well i do smell gas when i start or try to start, I just figured it was from the injectors.

If i have to drop the tank and change out the internal pump... I'm gonna do this: :punchballs: :punchballs: :punchballs:

No idea when my fuel filter was last changed, So i think i should maybe look into doing that...
I can easily here the external/rail pump when i turn the key, And i think i can hear the pump in the tank, But i'm not positive.
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~

Running!!! - With Qwuirks...

Reply #86
sounds more like a vacuum leak to me. from the "whoosh" description.
1979 Ford Fairmont
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5.0L/4R70W/8.8"/5-lug/3" Exhuast


Running!!! - With Qwuirks...

Reply #87
I'm really hoping that's all it is, I just need to find it...
And would that cause fuel to not squirt out the injectors?

I'll get to work on it again later, Need some rest.
I've got a compression gauge that goes up to 350 psi, And a random cheapie gauge that goes up to 50psi and such, So i'll check the pressure from the schrader and such later.
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~

Running!!! - With Qwuirks...

Reply #88
Quote from: 32VFoxBird;164889
sounds more like a vacuum leak to me. from the "whoosh" description.


yeah, i didnt want to go there yet cause usually when it cracks, the car will idle high.


On your meter readings at the injectors, ignore them.  All you really need to know is if the eec is removing and replacing the ground to each injector.

unhook each injector and rig up a little light bulb with socket and wire leads.  I have a tiny bulb with the socket and wire leads hanging on my tool wall to do "blink tests"  Just stuff the pos and neg wire up in each spot on the injector plug.  Turn the key on and crank.  The light bulb will blink each time the eec is programmed to supply and remove the ground. 

to make your pump run full time in order to check the fuel presure,,,, find the eec test connector and ground the tan / light green wire.  turn the key on and you should hear the fuel pump running.  at this point you can also prob the shradder valve pin and reverify you have more than just a water fall of fuel presure.

too much starting fluid will burn up your valves and cause wierd detonation if you dont use it very very sparingly.  if youve been through a whole can already,, your prob gonna want to check compression when this is all said and done.

a good fuel pump is a supercharge 3.8L fuel pump.  its about 90 literes per hour while your stock bosch one is like only 60.  It can be had at advance for about 45bux.  You just have to mount it in your old pump assembly.

If your not backfiring,,Like a gun shot, then your not delivering too much fuel nore would i think your timing is off especially since you said you didnt move it.

My best guess here is that after a few cranks,, the pump has finally delivered enough fuel and the engine tries to start,, since its not enough or barely, the engine will try to start but it just aint getting enough fuel.

try to start the car with the fuel pump relay ground wiire (tan/light green) up at the eec connected to a nearby ground. 

also, check the tps for less than a volt with the key on only at the green wire.  now manually move the trottle linkage by hand slowly and watch your voltage increase smoothly up to about 4.5vdc.  If you have an intermittant open in the TPS, you wont start.  The tps is just a variable resistor.


anyway,, if you decide on the fuel pump,, please do a presure test first.  50% of the time, the little 3'' long fuel line on the pump assembly is cracked and the pump is just sitting there dumping fuel right back into the tank.  You cant see this little 3'' hose cause its in the tank and a part of the fuel pump assembly.

Running!!! - With Qwuirks...

Reply #89
Quote from: Romeo2k;164899
I'm really hoping that's all it is, I just need to find it...
And would that cause fuel to not squirt out the injectors?

I'll get to work on it again later, Need some rest.
I've got a compression gauge that goes up to 350 psi, And a random cheapie gauge that goes up to 50psi and such, So i'll check the pressure from the schrader and such later.


dont use an air presure guage as a liquid presure guage.  they are made internally different.

besides,, a water guage is fine, all you need is the fitting that connects to the shrader valve and whatnot.  the whole / correct tool can be had cheap enough or you can borrow one.