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Messages - turbo d

1
Suspension/Steering / what size is the brake line tubing 88 tbird?
I thought that was kinda weird that my 88 tc had 3/16 fronts and a 1/4 going to the rearend.  I'm going to rerun all new brake lines using stainless steel; anyone have a cheap source for pre-bent lines?  If not I'll bend up my own.
2
T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars WANTED / Chuck W's Shock Brackets
I have a set that I bought, pulled out of the box, marveled over, then put on the shelf.  I currently don't need these as I decided to go with a 9 inch rearend. 
If you are still looking for a set, make me a reasonable offer and they're yours.
Darrell
3
Suspension/Steering / fabricating rear lower control arms
Update:
This is exactly what I had in mind:
http://www.jonaadland.com/Z28/Mods/LCA/AluminumLCAs.html

A couple people came through with links over on the Corral when I posted this:
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=989018

I'm going to make a set of these as soon as I get the rod ends.
I've found the xmr-12/lml-12 rod ends for around $25 each, still shopping around for a deal on an improved 3 pc version like the hmr-12t/hml-12t. Probably start with the xm's for now.
My plan was to keep the cost between $100-150.  I'll spend 100 bucks on four rod ends, and make the actual arms for around 20-25 bucks. 
I'll use 1 1/4" diameter 6061 aluminum.  Cut it to length (they should be about 14-16" long roughly;I haven't measured the centerline-to-centerline distance yet) then drill and tap either end, one side right-hand, the side opposite left-handed 3/4-16 threads.

I haven't decided for sure what I want to use for bushings/spacers, but I'll figure something out. I've found a few oil-lite bushings at work that I think are the same thing most people use, and I can make the spacers real easy out of tubing stock.
Has anyone else here, who has converted to coil-overs done anything similar?
6
Suspension/Steering / fabricating rear lower control arms
Darren-
First I didn't lay out huge $$ for the Griggs stuff I got a smoking deal on the tubular combo used, and there's a shiznit ton of time and engineering involved in making a k-member(correctly)  "reinventing the wheel" would be trying to fab one of those vs. laying down the $$ for a Griggs or MM k-member.  Yeah they are expensive but again, that's a lot of weld time, engineering, and a fair amount of money in material.

The LCA's, on the other hand, are a length of tube with a bushing end on one side and a rod end on the other. Pretty easy!  Sure CHE only gets $150, but I'm pretty sure I can make them for less then half that.  Plus I asked this question to see if anyone who had made their own LCA tried making the body from Aluminum?  I'm a machinist by trade so making the body is easy, I just wondered what others have used for the ends.

Don't think I'm made of money b/c I have Griggs and coil-overs, most everything I've modded on my car I've either bought used or made myself.  I save where I can so that I can spend where/when I want.  If I can save a few bucks here, I can spend it over there.
Che's price of $150 is very reasonable and I've heard nothing but good things about them, however (and not to sound pen 15y) I think I can do better for less.  (and that means better for my application not necessarily everyone else's) 
I hope that makes sense without sounding arrogant, and I know what you are saying about getting tired of making everything, but whenever I buy something that I know I could have made, I think about what else I could have bought with that money.  Like beer :)
Blu- thanks I'll send PM
Andrew-My original plan was rod ends on either side, but it seems like a lot of people are happier with poly on one end to eliminate bind.  You say you are happy with a two rod ends? So the ones you made look something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Autofab-79-98-Mustang-Upper-and-Lower-Control-Arms-Race_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33583QQihZ023QQitemZ360016894604QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Global West has me confused, read this, it's at the bottom of the page where it lists their tubular LCAs and different bushing combos
http://www.globalwest.net/mustang%2079-98.htm#Rear%20Tubular%20control%20arms

I like the choice at the bottom,  is this right?    del-a-lum=delrin
Granted this is from chevy guys, but here's what I found:
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/suspension-chassis/374255-delalum-vs-urethane.html

thanks
D
7
Suspension/Steering / fabricating rear lower control arms
I've been slacking and haven't got out to my shop to get any new pics yet, the only one I have is of the front wheel.
http://picasaweb.google.com/horton678/TurboCoupeStuff/photo#5156551486640620562
 You can see using the Griggs K-member and A-arms how far it pushes the wheel forward in the wheel well.  Granted this may change a little once everything is back together and aligned.  It's not exactly a coil-over kit either, just a set of koni DA struts with 350 lb springs in front and koni SA shocks with 250 lb springs in the rear.
As soon as I get more pics I'll post them.
8
Suspension/Steering / fabricating rear lower control arms
Anyone have any info or experience? I'm looking to make my own, this is for an 88 t-bird turbo coupe, so they are a little longer than a mustang piece. I have converted my rear suspension to coil-over, so I don't need spring perches or sway bar attachments, just a rod end on one side and a poly bushing on the other. Wondering where to find the ends and which ones exactly to use?
Something like this:

http://www.cheperformance.com/cartgenie/prodInfo.asp?pid=279&cid=9

Trying to save a few bucks, and I take pride in making my own pieces
9
T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars FOR SALE / 88tc factory wheels & aero/goodyear combo
16x7 "snowflakes" 4 lug wheels no tires
These are in pretty rough shape, but are still decent, just unmounted the tires. Clearcoat is coming off and there is a fair amount of curb rash. Here's a link to my pb acct with a picture of one of them.
http://s57.photobucket.com/albums/g232/horton_bucket/?action=view¤t=tcwheel.jpg

Looking to get $100 for the set+shipping, or best offer, pickup is OK. I'm an hour west of Chicago

Also trying to sell these:
http://s57.photobucket.com/albums/g232/horton_bucket/?action=view¤t=aerowheels.jpg
They're a set of Aero wheels with brand new yellow-lettered Goodyears. 275/60-15
I'm pretty sure they are a 15x8 wheel, 5 lug, 114.3 bolt circle. If you scroll through my photo album there is a pic with these mounted on my 88TC.
Looking to get $300 for the set. I can't imagine what these would cost to ship, so I'm gonna say local deal only.
These came with the car I bought,and I am swapping over my Steeda wheels instead of using them.
thanks!
Darrell
10
T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars FOR SALE / 17x8 konig villains(2)
I'm selling a pair of these wheels. They are in great shape with some slight rash on the very outer part of the wheels. I would say they are an 8.5-9/10 condition. I'm not sure of the bs, but they are 5 lug 114.3 bolt circle with a +30 offset. Here's a link to my photobucket acct with pics:

http://s57.photobucket.com/albums/g2...t=DSCF0006.jpg

Looking to get $175 plus shipping,obo, local pickup is ok. I'm an hour west of Chicago. If interested I can email a better quality picture that can be zoomed in and viewed more accurately.
thanks
Darrell
btw, here is the MM link where they sell the 17x9 version:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/index.html?http&&&www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=577
12
General Fox T-Bird/Cougar Discussion / Aluminum driveshafts, with a twist
I'm sure this topic has been discussed before:

I know some of the turbo coupe guys from nato and turboford have gone with a cut/rewelded/rebalanced factory aluminum driveshaft.  Either off of a Crown Vic or an Aerostar I believe.

What I'm looking for is an aluminum shaft for an 88 turbocoupe with a t-5 BUT with a 9 inch rear instead of the stock 8.8
Any Ideas??

thanks
Darrell
14
Lounge / What do YOU do for a living?
I've been a machinist for almost 10 years now.  I've worked at the same family owned company since '98.  We do mostly prototype and short run jobs; as a job shop we don't sell a product, instead companies come to us with blueprints and we make the parts for them. Most are local companies, but we've done work for some larger ones also.  Even though I use the same equipment/tooling, the jobs vary a great deal.  One day I might be making parts from aluminum, the next day stainless steel, brass, some weird composite, who knows?
I was hired on as their sheetmetal guy.  After mastering that, I gained experience on a lathe and Bridgeport, and learned how to program our CNCs.  Lately, I've been the QC guy.  I didn't know hardly anything when I started, so I feel like I owe this place.  My boss put me through school AAS in Manufacturing Tech/Tool and Die, (paid for everything, I just had to get B's or better)
When I finished my 2 year in MT instead of going to a 4 year school, I took a little time off, then about 2 years ago started taking classes towards a Business degree.  Unlike most people, I enjoy school, and learning new stuff, plus I work with a bunch of dudes all day, so it's nice to go to school with a bunch of 18-22 year old hot girls.  (hey at least I'm honest about my ulterior motives)


Up until recently, I loved my job, but it's starting to get old, and I don't know what the heck I wanna do for the next 30 years or so (i'm 28).  Maybe this thread will give me some ideas.
15
Lounge / introduction: newbie here
Hey everyone.  Just wanted to introduce myself.  I've been on both NATO and turboford for a number of years, so I'm not exactly a newb, just new to this site.  Normally I just lurk, but from time to time I'll chime in.  I live in northern IL and am 28. I'm a machinist by trade, specializing in custom sheetmetal work.  I've loved and worked on fords since I was 18. 

Currently I own two 88 turbocoupes.  One I've had since I was 19.  It started as my daily driver, but its now more like a streetable racecar.  Lots of mods which I don't feel like rambling on about, if interested do a search on 2940 over at NATO.  That's the weight, without me, I've gotten it down to.  I'm hoping for a race weight of 3000 lbs next year and with some tuning and additional mods over the winter around 300 ponies at the wheels. 

My other TC I just bought this past summer. It was someone else's project that I acquired half built.  Its a roller right now but I have big/long term plans for it.  As it sits gutted, the mods are 14 pt cage, subframes/torque boxes, fuel cell, 9" rear end, Griggs tubular K with A arms.  Not sure what the heck I'm going to do with it for sure, but I knew I couldn't pass it up for the price.  I'll keep the price secret otherwise you will all immediately hate me. 

Anyways, just wanted to say hello.  If there's anyone in my neck of the woods who wants to hangout/needs help wrenching, I have a 1000 sq ft garage a little southwest of where I88 and I39 intersect.
Darrell Horton