Details: 188,000mi. Stock SO 5.0L V8 Factory Dual Exhaust buttstuffog Gauge Cluster Runs and Drives (straight)
Issues/Needs: -4 New Tires -New Exhaust from Cat Conv. to lers -Rear Main Seal (leaks about 1 qt. btw oil changes) -Possibly a new TPS sensor -Heat Works, AC does not -Cruise Control does not work -Drivers Seat Belt Buckle (just the female) -Center Glove Box latch is busted, but still closes -Dash temp gauge broke, but aftermarket temp gauge installed -Worn seats, cracked top of dash
New Parts: -Transmission - used with 50,000mi. - 3-4yrs. -Alternator 80a - 1.5yrs. -Valve Cover Gaskets - 6mo. -Distributor coil and magnetic pick-up - 3mo. -Distributor Cap and Rotor - 3mo. -Spark Plugs - 3mo. -Bosch Premium Battery - 3mo.
Car has minor damage to drivers side bumper, mirror, and door due to small accident last winter where the car brushed the side of another (mirror got knocked off, door and bumper sed)..
Also, minor dings from over the years, but no body rust..car was repainted in 2006 before the 2007 winter's accident...car has only seen 1 winter as it was my Uncles in L.I. then gifted to me in 2003...the car was garaged for 3 years while I was at college, then I used it as a daily driver from 2007 to present...
Looking for around $1000/BO to help purchase a new(er) car...
I realize it is not in perfect condition but I have been upfront about ALL of the issues...
I have an 88 xr-7 with 188,000 miles (100,000 on tranny), but it needs about $1500 in parts including a rear main seal, new exhaust pipes, y-pipe, lers, 4 new tires, as well as a TPS and possibly a couple other sensors...the car has had Mobil 1 for most of the life and has not been beaten on, just a couple of minor accidents (no frame damage)...
Wondering if it is worth it to keep it and put in the money, or buy a used car and inherit someone else's problems...btw I am an unemployed, recent college grad with limited funds :(
Car will not shift until it reached 3000-3500rpm depending on how much throttle I'm giving it. It will also jerk into lower gear when letting off the throttle (and braking). It was working fine, then one day a week or so ago started doing this..Thought it might have been the TV/Kickdown Cable but I accidentally broke the rail on the block mechanism near the throttle body and have removed it as I assumed it is only needed to kick the car down into passing gear...
That being said, I have also looked for a transmission MODULATOR, to check for a bad vacuum or part only to discover that the transmission has no modulator (there are not vacuum lines running from the tranny at all, just the steel lines to the radiator..the tranny was replaced about 3-4 years ago and reads "FORD AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE METRIC" on it)...I have also checked the fluid color and level and everything checks out.
Does this mean that I have an internal problem with the tranny, or is it something else causing the long, harder than normal shifts?
I have an 88 XR-7, stock, that has just recently had a problem of getting up to high RPM before shifting.
Normally it shifts at/around 2200rpm but lately, out of nowhere, it started to not shift until 3000. After a couple days, it seemed to fix itself so I kept driving it. Now, it has come back and seems to be worse (will not shift until 3500rpms or so). It is shifting harder than normal, but I think it is because if the RPM its at. It is the same for all gears, not just 1st or 2nd, so I'm guessing its not a tranny problem...
I ran the self test with the following results:
KOEO: 31 - PFE or EVP intermittent failure 63 - TPS circuit below min value 0.6v
KOER: 18 - SPOUT open or spark angle word failure 21 - ECT out of range (yes, i let it warm up before testing) 45 - Thermactor 2ndary air misdirected
I was recently doing some dizzy and timing work after pulling the dizzy to replace the thermostat and received the code 21 so it might still be a problem, but I'm not sure it has anything to do with the shifting problem.
Can anyone tell me if they have had this problem or if the codes I pulled could be causing the problem? I was reading it might be the cable to the tranny but I am not that savvy with AOD.
Thanks for the help with the dizzy and timing adjustments...I have got the car running decently well but I am still pulling codes...any ideas?
I have disconnected the battery to clear the codes and this is what I still get:
KOEO/CM: 22 - MAP/BP sensor out of self test range 51 - ECT sensor signal is greater than the S/T maximum of 4.6 volts 63 - TPS circuit has intermittently failed below minimum 0.6 volts. 34 - PFE or EVP circuit has intermittently failed above the closed limit of 0.67 volts.
KOER: 45 - Thermactor secondary air is misdirected 18 - SPOUT circuit open or spark angle word failure
I was having problems with an intermittant, almost rolling idle (between 600-1100rpm), but it has since started to disappear...
I was rebuilding my distributor and messing around with the thermostat in my 88 XR-7 5.0 (stock) and I realized I forgot to mark the position..some time has passed and not sure where it should be...
..Any ideas on how to make sure I'm on the correct gear tooth or just go and move it one tooth at a time until it starts and runs well?
I have an 88 cougar XR7 that is stock except the air silencer removal...Recently, the car will get up or near running temp. and will stall out...Some times I will be able to get it started again, but it always dies again shortly after that (1-2miles). After that, it will rest for 45mins or so and will start up after that.
The problem seemed to start when the car would not start after shutting off the engine following a longer trip on thruway (1 hr drive), and slowed progressed to where the car would randomly die while driving....
I have tried a number of things: -Coolant flush -Checked plugs/wires -Cleaned distributor cap/rotor -New Ignition Control Module and Pick-up coil (the part inside the distributor)
I just took it for a 3 min ride after rebuilding the distributor and letting it warm up to about 150deg...it stalled and would not start after pulling in a driveway to turn around. I put the car in reverse after pulling up and it seemed to die then.
