Distributor Install - LOST rotor location September 09, 2009, 01:10:44 PM I was rebuilding my distributor and messing around with the thermostat in my 88 XR-7 5.0 (stock) and I realized I forgot to mark the position..some time has passed and not sure where it should be.....Any ideas on how to make sure I'm on the correct gear tooth or just go and move it one tooth at a time until it starts and runs well?Thanks! Quote Selected
Distributor Install - LOST rotor location Reply #1 – September 09, 2009, 02:45:11 PM Put the engine @ TDC and then reinstall dist with rotor towards the #1.No other way around it. You should have done this before you pulled the dist originally. Quote Selected
Distributor Install - LOST rotor location Reply #2 – September 09, 2009, 03:43:46 PM I agree with chuck but there is a 50/50 chance that you either get it right or have it 180* off you will only know if you try or you can pull #1 spark plug stick your finger in the hole rotate the engine and feel for the compression poof. Quote Selected
Distributor Install - LOST rotor location Reply #3 – September 09, 2009, 04:06:35 PM Line up dampener timing 0* mark and stab it in so the rotor points to the back. Set your wires, then your timing. Done. Easy :) Quote Selected
Distributor Install - LOST rotor location Reply #4 – September 09, 2009, 05:13:00 PM lining up the balancer, like I stated above gives a 50/50 chance of being right. follow what I said and get it right the first time. Quote Selected
Help! Reply #5 – September 10, 2009, 01:14:57 PM Never done this before..can someone provide step-by-step directions on how to do this...do I have to take apart anything or is it easier than that? Thanks in advance!Paul Quote Selected
Distributor Install - LOST rotor location Reply #6 – September 10, 2009, 06:20:42 PM Best advice is already on here. Pull #1 plug, mark the balancer at 0 and 10 (or so) degrees with some white chalk. Slowly turn the motor over, by hand is best (wrench on crank bolt), and as the balance mark approaches 0 you will feel pressure (on your finger, which is placed over the spark plug hole) when on the compression stroke. When you feel the air pressure and see the 0 degree timing mark coming towards the pointer then stop on 0 degrees. Your motor is now at TDC (top dead center). Put the distributor back in (remember that it will turn slightly as it engages the gear on the cam) and make sure the rotor tip lines up with the #1 spark plug wire. Viola, done. Now you can get fancy and use a timing light with the plug disconnected or use the simpleton style of continuing to turn the engine over until the balancer is at 10 (or so ) degrees BTDC (before top dead center) when you put the distributor back in. Tighten the hold down bolt and cruise. Quote Selected
Distributor Install - LOST rotor location Reply #7 – September 10, 2009, 08:35:58 PM This is how I do it, finger in the number one plug trick to find TDC. Then find where the number one is on the cap and put the distributor in so it lines up the best you can. Try to start the motor and if it does not fire or runs poorly rotate the distributor slightly one way or the other until it runs good. Then fine tune it with the light.TED Quote Selected
Distributor Install - LOST rotor location Reply #8 – September 10, 2009, 09:57:51 PM Plan B. Unless you're really strong, I'd advise pulling all the spark plugs out to stab that dizzy. Otherwise, you're going to have to overcome at least three compression strokes on other cylinders while you're hunting TDC on #1, depending on crank/cam positions. You may have to go through 7 of them. No plugs, easy peasy to turn the engine, especially if it's got any significant mileage on it. I.E. rings are seated, friction is low. Whatever you do, do not stick ANYTHING IN that spark plug hole that you do not want broken, or that can make a mark on top of the piston. I have used a wooden dowel to watch for upstroke of #1, but do not even advise that because it could hang and break off in the cylinder. If you're built like an orangutan, or have extra joints in your arms, putting your finger OVER the plug hole will let you know when you are on the compression stroke. While that is true, the valve train will not lie to you. Pull the right valve cover and watch the valves on #1 as you turn the crank. If the Exhaust valve closes and the intake opens as you pass 0 degrees, that would be 180 degrees out, or intake stroke of #1. Turn one more revolution to get to TDC, aligning the 0 mark on the harmonic balancer with the timing pointer. Turn the dizzy body in the general direction you want it, preferrably with the #1 plug stud pointing at #1 cylinder as best possible. Turn the dizzy shaft about 15-20 degrees counter clockwise from pointing at where the #1 stud would be, to gain the offset of the spiral teeth on the dizzy gear. As you insert the dizzy, it will rotate clockwise as it splines with the worm on the cam. Before stabbing the dizzy, put the cap on it, and mark where the #1 stud on the cap is on the side of the dizzy with a Sharpie or something that can be removed with a little alcohol, or maybe use a small punch and make a tiny mark on the dizzy body if it's aluminum. After stabbing the dizzy, line the mark on the body up with the rotor. If you want, go ahead and put the harmonic balancer at 10 BTDC, NOT ATDC as a dealership did when I had a long block installed. Line the body of the dizzy up with the rotor then, and you'll be real close. Use a light to set it, though, to get the best performance. You may even be able to bump timingh up to 11 or 12 to get better economy and performance. Any further, and you'll lose all you gained (if not more) by having to by more expensive fuel. The EEC-IV was designed to run on 87 octane fuel. Advancing the timing will probably require higher octane or additives to prevent ping or detonation. What you're trying to do is not hard at all. Hardest part if it's SEFI will be getting that 1234 valve cover off. If it's TBI, though, piece of cake. Probably wouldn't be a bad time to put some new VC gaskets on anyway. Unlike a points type distributor, it isn't quite as easy with solid state ignition. With an old points type distributor, set TDC (minus advance) drop the dizzy in, and turn the body until the points close. (A good use for the test light [across the points] in the other thread). No need for a timing light there, other than to fine tune or play with advance. Quote Selected
Distributor Install - LOST rotor location Reply #9 – September 12, 2009, 12:07:53 AM Sorry Old_Paint but your way is way too hard and slow. Just hook up a remote starter button to the solenoid and let the starter turn it over. When you feel compression with you finger in number one you know it is tdc. Then you can fine tune it a little by hand.KISSTED Quote Selected
Distributor Install - LOST rotor location Reply #10 – September 12, 2009, 07:15:38 AM Quote from: cad-t-bird 500;290882sorry old_paint but your way is way too hard and slow. Just hook up a remote starter button to the solenoid and let the starter turn it over. When you feel compression with you finger in number one you know it is tdc. Then you can fine tune it a little by hand.Kisstedx2 :d Quote Selected
Distributor Install - LOST rotor location Reply #11 – September 12, 2009, 01:15:22 PM Quote from: Cad-T-Bird 500;290882Sorry Old_Paint but your way is way too hard and slow. Just hook up a remote starter button to the solenoid and let the starter turn it over. When you feel compression with you finger in number one you know it is tdc. Then you can fine tune it a little by hand. KISS TED That starter turns that engine pretty fast. Yeah, it's not fun pulling the plugs, but if he's doing dizzy work anyway, may as well take the time to check the plugs/wires too. Advice is free, and worth every penny if ignored. Quote Selected
UPDATE: Running, but... Reply #12 – September 16, 2009, 01:43:40 PM Well, I have set it at TDC and at 10BTDC but still have no improved results...I have attached photos of it at TDC and with dizzy stabbed.....Also included is a video of the car running (ROUGH)...can anyone diagnose the problem? THANKS! Quote Selected
Distributor Install - LOST rotor location Reply #13 – September 16, 2009, 04:12:53 PM Two things I can think of:1. The EEC needs to know where plug number 1 is. The "vane" on the distributor (the metal thing with all the windows and slats under the roter) that corresponds to plug number 1 (it looks different) has to line up with plug number 1 in the firing sequence. If not the EEC fires the injectors at the wrong time.2. You have a stock 5.0 right? You have the firing order at 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 correct? If it's wired for the 5.0 HO firing order of 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 it will not run or run like . Quote Selected
Distributor Install - LOST rotor location Reply #14 – September 17, 2009, 11:24:26 AM Thats pretty much how it should look. Have someone crank it over while you spin the dist left and right. If that fails, see if you are 180* out (thumb over the #1 spark plug hole trick). Quote Selected
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