Perhaps I am confused, but in one of these revisions, the secondary (bottom) relay in the closed position removes the needed ground from the blower motor completely, while in another, direct ground is applied to the fused (30A) source through the primary relay. quietleaf's last post however, appears to be exactly what is necessary to protect the blower switch in high from over current, but still relies on the thermal limiter for the low and medium positions, as originally designed. Exactly how much protection the switch really has with so little resistance can only be determined by actually measuring the current when the the blower is in operation at these two remaining levels.
High current draw through the switch is the real issue, not the gauge of the wire or even the design of the switch per se. jcassity provided diagrams for two modifications that should significantly diminish the current draw through the switch. Of course, no modification can undo any damage already done to the switch, connectors and wiring due to excessive current load and a poor circuit design.
Without knowing exactly how your conversion was done, I can only speculate, but it sounds as if you might have an intermittent short. Check your wiring for frayed sections that may be rubbing against a source of chassis ground. A hint to help you might be to look for scorch marks, where an arc might find ground. 200 amps is enough to weld with and should leave a scorch mark of some kind. Good Luck!
The polyurethane bushings provide the least deflection and thus better stability and control, but if the resulting ride is to harsh to suit personal taste, then a decent compromise is delrin bushings, which are much firmer than stock rubber, deflect a bit more than polyurethane and don't tend to suffer from the tendency to squeaking often encountered with polyurethane. CHE uses a hybrid of both delrin and polyeuothane to achieve the best performance.
Check out JCassity's online '87 EVTM here. He has conveniently put scanned the EVTM and put a link to the album in his signature. It sure would be nice to have a similar online resource for '88 and other model years, but you were lucky enough to have just the resource you needed.
You might look for things like hacked up wiring, jury rigged motor and trans mounts, oil pan to k-member clearance, etc. You might also check how the exhaust is installed and how well it is secured. If welding was required, are the welds neat and professional looking or do they more closely resemble metal popcorn with lots of slag and spatter? If the swap was completed by a competent person, it will be apparent and appear to be almost "factory" engineered. Only you can judge if things look right or not, but hopefully, these suggestions will prevent you from acquiring someone else's problem child.
If anything, the three mods you mentioned, leaving the ler aside, can only improve emissions performance. The tighter tolerances of the MSD distributor, combined with the multi-spark of the MSD-6 can only cause more of the fuel to be burned, resulting in more efficiency as an air pump and thus,cleaner emissions. Will such mods offset the sloppiness of a worn out engine, umm, NO. Can it hurt...also a no. What is stupid to me is that in some states replacing steel pulleys with aluminum or plumbing in an intercooler or using an open filament air cleaner can lead to failure of an emissions test visually, without even bothering to perform the tailpipe sniff test. I got my TC because it failed the sniff test in VA, but passed here in TN with flying colors after cleaning the TB, unclogging the EGR and replacing the PCV valve. She passed well below the federally mandated minimums, let alone maximum and she now has over 250,000 miles on the clock.
As for the bad injectors, they usually get clogged over some period of time, usually due to trash in the fuel system not caught by the fuel filter. One thing you might consider is blowing out the fuel lines with compressed air between the fuel filter and the injectors and replace the fuel filter, assuming that you haven't already done that. The blow out will not get the lines absolutely clean, but barring flushing them with a gallon or so of alcohol or wasting several gallons of fuel and creating a fire hazard, it might be worth doing to at least try and prevent one or more from becoming clogged in the near future. I admit that I am leaning towards clogged injectors rather than failure only because you said that you found multiple bad ones and it is unlikely that more than one injector failed at the same time. Of course there is the possibility that one failed earlier and went undiagnosed until the second one failed and began causing real problems. Not being there, this is mere speculation, but the possibility dos exist. In either case though, cleaning the fuel system will not hurt anything.
I have my own recent fuel system story. My TC wouldn't stay running after having been in storage for about a year. Even though I had STA-BIL in the tank, the possibility existed that the gas had gone bad, so I proceeded to empty the tank, clean it out and refill the tank with fresh gas. Nope. even though I found a bit of trash in the tank like pebbles, sand and other debris, it wasn't until I checked the fuel pressure and found that I only had about 23lbs at the fuel rail. I thought I was going to have to replace the pump, even though she was running fine before I put her in storage. When I emptied the tank agains and pulled the pump, I found that the small piece of fuel line between pump and the tank bulkhead was ruptured and for the lack of a better description had become mushy or squishy... At any rate, what was happening was that the fuel pump was working fine, but when the pressure began to build in the fuel system, the rupture was allowing the fuel to leak back into the tank and preventing proper fuel pressure. Replacing that 3" piece of fuel line solved the problem and she ran fine, right up until I discovered she had a cracked head, but that is another story.
Do you have details to share? This sounds like a worthwhile project to undertake, especially if you are already in the dash doing something like replacing a heater core or something else of that nature.
Right on 347. Every parent should be free to believe what they wish and teach their beliefs to their own children, as they see fit. To avoid hypocrisy, we parents should make no value judgements of another person, their character or their choices based ONLY on whether they choose to mark their bodies or not, and of course practice what we teach.
Or maybe one of the more enterprising members could produce a small run of bronze bushings suitable for the purpose, as someone had said they did in an earlier post. :)
