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Topic: 87 "coug" resto winter project (Read 85196 times) previous topic - next topic

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #405 –
if you have clips that are for thicker guage metal, you would not need the adaptor.

this fpr is for the mock up, vac one going on now.

I only have one 3 hole mount vac type FPR.  since you have to drill out the threads in the fpr to pass hardware through, i used an FPR i would not need.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #406 –
I'm not quite clear on how you're mounting the speed nuts in this situation.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #407 –
clips (flat side facing the bottom of the fpr  mount pad) slip on the metal u shaped bracket i made.

now you drop in your screws from the top.

i am redoing this again, stand by.... i want to use the 94 version FPR since it has only two mounting bolts.
the one mounting bolt closest to the upper intake is still very hard to get to even in this design.

on the explorer design there is a rear and front mounting bolt.  I want to use our 3 bolt fuel rail but use a two bolt FPR for even more ease of access.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #408 –
so i changed things.
Using our stock style fuel rail, i was able to settle on a 94 fuel pressure regulator which only requires two points of hardware.

I took a long skinny bolt that probably came from a large wood wire spool and shaped it to something similar to a "U" bolt. 
The shape is following the profile of the bottom of the FPR fuel rail mounting pad somewhat using a spare old fuel rail to mock up.

I taped threads on each end and test fitted it.
the shape i have somewhat causes you to tighten but the homemade mounting bracket itself gets in a bind and forces the FPR down as you tighten the top.
The pic shows that it "appears there is a lot of slack in the elbows i made ,  these elbows serve as a "springyness" type effort always applied.  Its good and tight now.

got the intake on and took a shot of access to the FPR which will be super easy.  The newer fuel rails solve this problem of too many man hours to change out an FPR, so ,  I feel like its justifiable to solve it on our cars as well.

also, the 94 FPR solves another problem with the location of the mounting hardware.  the FPR mount itself puts the mounting holes further away from the cylindrical base of the FPR housing itself to allow for tools to drop in more easily for R&R.

our stock FPRs hardware come in from the bottom via allen head screws and the removal causes you to have to touch so many other things not having to do with the FPR, that being said, this should be something easy to change out now.  Chance just has to remember this is an explorer FPR and not a stock unit.  if for some reason he ends up getting the stock style FPR with 3 mounting holes, he's not screwed because it will also be downward compatible, he just needs mounting screws.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #409 –
couple more shots

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #410 –
thought since i need a v8 cruise cable, i would take the retainer clip out and dospoogeent the shape so i can make a couple spares.  I noticed some other screws that gave me access to the insides of the cruise amplifier so i went at it.

this is whats inside there just in case you all wanted to know.  looks like a couple solenoids and a Pot.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #411 –
while i work away doing this and that, and with no fender well skirts installed, it gave perfect access to a random critter who likes to s.

im reaching down on the driver side,  planning to take some pics and this happens.

the fugger must have snuck up onto the driver front tire and observed human movement through the engine bay holes,, and especially the large round one.  There he waits for the moment the stupid human makes the mistake of passing by the opening.  he sliced the side of my hand pretty good.

this was not staged... he hung on,, i had to actually unhook his injection needle claws from my hand.  he want fighting me,,, he was simply hanging on not letting go. 

after i defeated him, i put painters tape on front driver and back passanger paws, then a band of painters tape around the tail.  I swear this cat pranks me like he actually knows what a prank is.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #412 –
new application and design starter cable going in.
#2awg Rhh/RHW 105degC copflex wire.

in this case i heated the lug and soldered both ends, then afterwards i crimped it as well.

Oem application has a plastic pipe under the front side of the oil pan to protect the wire.
i took it a few steps further with some simple 1/2'' water line pipe i heated up and bent.

this formed a simple conduit for the wire to run inside until i was able to snake it around the pass side motor mount down low keeping it away from all the heat.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #413 –
more pics of routing of new starter wire.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #414 –
so,, Who knew? 
apparently the factory battery tray has no drain hole!!!!!!!!!!!!

fixed that,, now water can run out "over" the frame and to the ground, not into the frame.

see pics of fix.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #415 –
four point ground work done.
battery to frame point front driver
front driver frame to engine AC mount
rear driver head home made braided to fire wall to match OEM look
rear pass head to to pass chassis
front pass to frame

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #416 –
last ground wire pic

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #417 –
vacuum canister solenoid installed, cleaned it up a tad since it has ford info on it.
also rigged up this particular v6 style carbon canister to work with a V8 application.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #418 –
all things electrical and vac related are done in the engine bay.

Mass air harness fabercobbled in and done to the left pass side waiting.

headlamp ground lug reworked and attached to the upper L/R core support.

I never really like the original way the computer harness ran across the engine bay.
it usually chokes off access to things you need to get to.

I found a way to raise up the wire harness and secure it to the firewall like shown.
just below the wire harness gives me a tiny routing area for vac lines from the Egr solenoid and my 3way manual HVAC vac line.

I can now access bell housing bolts, the PCV, everything along the fire wall is easy to get to including the O2 sensor harness connectors.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #419 –
should i get an AOD computer or use this stick shift computer on my car,, this will be an AOD car.

help pls?

or sell me a A9P style computer.
I also need a mass air sensor since apparently none of my MKViii Mass air sensors will work even though they were running 24# injectors.

we are running 24# injectors as well.


over a couple years ago a few people here said to get a mass air EEC ho, then snag injectors and mass air sensor from a mkviii, then you would be good.
so,, we snagged 3 sets of Mkviii injectors and mass air sensors and apparently that not the correct thing to do?