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Topic: 87 "coug" resto winter project (Read 85228 times) previous topic - next topic

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #300 –
I used Fel-Pro intake gaskets for a 93-95 Cobra and 96-01 Explorer 5.0 on my engine (same port opening as a 1250). I put them on dry. No coolant leaks. When I pulled the GT40 intake off two years ago to swap the Performer RPM intake on the gasket hadn't leaked at all. So on went the same gaskets installed the same way with the Performer RPM intake.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #301 –
the intake gasket set works fine with GT40 heads.

with these D20E heads,, the gasket isnt working right.

I have a mr gasket set coming in today that seems to address a wide variety of water jacket differences from various heads.
pics coming.

maybe i should have asked for 69-72 torino / econoline intake gaskets for perhaps a 351M??

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #302 –
Quote from: jcassity;461503
the intake gasket set works fine with GT40 heads.

with these D20E heads,, the gasket isnt working right.

I have a mr gasket set coming in today that seems to address a wide variety of water jacket differences from various heads.
pics coming.

maybe i should have asked for 69-72 torino / econoline intake gaskets for perhaps a 351M??
Do you mean 351W?? The M engines didn't exist till '75... 351M gaskets are nothing like a Windsor, those are basically a tall deck Cleveland with a big block bellhousing pattern... Nothing more than a 351C built in a 400 block, cheaper to cast one block for both engines...

The head my gasket is pictured on is a D8 from my original Comet engine... Someone had swapped it's heads, originally it probably had D2 or maybe D3 as it's a very late '72... The intake is D3 and is no doubt orig...

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #303 –
Yes,,W,, sorry.  these are those 69 Windsor heads used from i guess 69 up to 72.,, not sure what i was thinking there with the 400

so... this is much better....  Felpro 1250 set

all i do is cut away that extra stud hole opening on the water jacket port.. or leave it cause it really wont matter i guess.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #304 –
Those FP 1250 are same ones that come in a small block Trick flow gasket set... They are what's on my 331...

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #305 –
The 1250s are paper and leak eventually, even with RTV around the water ports. This gasket is what I run: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-ms95952

Same size as the 1250 but it's steel core with graphite on either side, plus the nice blue rubber end seals. Never gonna leak, bolts right up. Don't worry if the water ports on the MS95952 gasket are bigger than what's on your heads (they are bigger than the water ports on the Edelbrock Performers I run). They aren't going to leak. Trust me :D.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #306 –
but............. I Cant do that gasket at all man,,,
the water port overhangs past the head.

the only way i can run that gasket is to silicone the heck out of the edge and it will prob blow out with presure sooner than later.

the far left and far right edge of the gasket ,, the indent into the gasket is hanging out over the edge of the head.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #308 –
yeah, been looking at 69 351 stuff for the heads,, and these showed up.  the newest ones i got are paper like you said and that makes me sorta not want to use them.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #309 –
Those Fel-Pro gaskets for a 69 351W should work and are not paper like the 1250 gasket is. Just use some RTV in place of the end seals, since the 351W end seals are wider.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #310 –
one last pass on fit verification of valve covers before they go on.
i laid a piece of 1'' wide x about 2' long tin foil along the top of the rocker nuts.  put the one valve cover on that has the oil kneck.
I fed the slack on the tin foil out the oil kneck then added and tightened up the valve cover bolts.  I pulled on the tin foil and "if" it binds or breaks then i am touching rocker nuts to valve cover.

It pulled out easy as pie.

second test ,, spray painted a band along the inside of the cover, added bolts and tightened like normal.  If the rocker nuts touch then paint band will be damaged.
no damage to paint,, so all this checking is saying that as along as the steel explorer gasket PLUS a normal cork gasket it used, the covers are tall enough.

I ended up removing all the pokey up stuff on the covers i didnt want anymore.  those spark plug metal parts are just stupid and get in the way.

a couple pics....

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #311 –
started pondering the reasons why a power steering pump tends to be such a negleted item in our cars... then it occured to me.
They are such a PITA to deal with.
I made some mods to encourage my son to not have the same trouble with them like what we are given in OEM stock form.

The objective is to be able to drop out the entire pump and pully together out of the car without much headache.

this calls for a change to the mount and to the associated hardware.

first the mods to the mount.

I cleaned up a used JY low miles pump and used it as my mock up.  I have a brand new pump on standby but this mock up pump will become a spare.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #312 –
I bought the tool to take off the pully, then realized i had to make a pully installer so this is my solve... works fine.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #313 –
now i need to mount the pump but not damage anything about the original design & application.
If for some reason its needed that the original bolts need to go back in, that design is preserved.

solution is grade 8 shanked bolts just a tad smaller than the threaded portion on the pump itself.

I have to build out the hardware so it installs the opposite of OEM.  This will solve the problem of removal in conjunction with the bracket mod.

the hardware needs to pass through the threaded holes on the pump itself and stick out just enough to add a thread locked nut.

The hardware needs to come out easily in the future.

I met all these needs with the solutions in the pics.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #314 –
a few more pics of power steering pump mount mod done.

now in the future, the nuts can be removed and the hardware which are self correcting so to speak will easily pop out the back.  the pump with pully will drop out the opening after the two hoses are also removed.

just as an FYI...  you **********DO NOT****** keep advancing your pully installer until the pully is all the way up the pump shaft.

you the installer must decide when the pully is oriented correctly to align with the other roundy rounds & the belt.

there is no "stop" on the pump shaft.

suggestion to "know when to stop pressing the pully on....
measure the distance between the mount and the back edge of the pully.

duplicate that distance when the pully is put back on.

I have no idea why this pully is pressed on, there has to be an engineering purpose for it.
to be honest , im not sure why there isnt a hole drilled through the pully ring & shaft completely.  This way a roll pin could be simply hammered in to keep things happy.  The pump shaft could be now a ten thousanth skinner to allow the the pully to be tapped on with minor effort and a roll pin installed.  Maybe the engineers didnt want hammershiznitting the pump.. yeah i think thats it.

Even better would be to Key Way the shaft then add a nut / washer on the front to keep the keyway in place.  It would probably have to be reverse thread like that stupid tensioner pully bolt !