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Topic: new issue (Read 5565 times) previous topic - next topic

Reply #60 – February 27, 2013, 08:52:42 PM

What your looking for on the injectors, is a steady pulse while cranking. If itisn't constant, then it points to a ignition module/pip/dist issue. No need to take off the whole upper or check each one, but I guess it can't be a bad thing to be sure.

The car will not idle as long as you have a tps code, and the maf code could make it run shiznitty too. There are procedures for checking these as well. Let us know what you find.

And mr. Renzo, thanks, you were correct as far as the base idle goes. I was having a brain fart.

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Reply #61 – February 27, 2013, 09:00:35 PM

Hmm, it couldn't be a maf code. I always get the sd and mass air computer codes mixed up for some reason. I suggest when you finish with the injector checing that you re-run codes, making sure the codes are correct and repeat themselves. The tps code should be a 5 min fix, but might cost some money, and you'll need a voltmeter. You can get a volt meter for $2.99 at harbor freight.

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Reply #62 – February 27, 2013, 09:12:07 PM

yeah i have a voltmeter and a test light i have another tps sensor but its at my brothers house i have to wait for him to get back in town i was checking pulse by turning the distributor while key was on

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Reply #63 – February 27, 2013, 11:10:06 PM

What is the wire that connects kinda to the keyed ignition switch itself? Has a little clip that touches the switch

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Reply #64 – February 27, 2013, 11:41:18 PM

Grounding pin for the door ajar warning. If its the little black on attached to the actual key lock part.

*edit*

Ment the key on chime. Sorry.

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Reply #65 – February 28, 2013, 07:07:19 AM

ok just wanted to make sure it wasnt important in the car running for some reason

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Reply #66 – March 08, 2013, 11:13:38 AM

Ok update guys, I dropped the car off with a. Mechanics just because I'm lost. He said he took two plugs out and it would crank up an run, he changed the computer to just try it with one he had laying around he changed the distributor also with one he had laying around he said he was lost with it also said he has never had one like that. Any other thoughts guys?

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Reply #67 – March 08, 2013, 12:56:39 PM

Yup...

Run codes, check/fix tps and do a base idle reset, then clean your maf.

And then, re-run codes...

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Reply #68 – March 08, 2013, 12:57:12 PM

Wait, ignore the maf thing...

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Reply #69 – March 09, 2013, 02:05:41 PM

Okay guys I got the car fixed today got to thinking about the cats being clogged up, and unbolted the exhaust and it fired right up so I put my shorty headers and off road h pipe on it. I have to get the
It to the exhaust shop now.

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Reply #70 – March 09, 2013, 04:07:02 PM

Fascinating how this car went from no SPARK to clogged cats. I guess i am getting OLD. Easiest way to determine this is by back pressure readings. 2 seconds would have corrected this and a quick back hand to the tail pipe would have settled the issue in 2 seconds. Or a vacuum gauge would have pinpointed it. Normally a start and stall is dead nuts for a clogged CATS. Just saying!!

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Reply #71 – March 09, 2013, 05:16:30 PM

Just never thought the cats were the issue, an as stated before I don't have a lot of tools or money to buy tools an stuff, all the parts except the fuel pump I already had.

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Reply #72 – March 09, 2013, 07:19:36 PM

Glad you got it figured out, but it sucks it will be so expensive.

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Reply #73 – March 09, 2013, 07:40:44 PM

Well I had headers and off road hnpipe laying in my building so I put that stuff on an I'm happy I got it fixed thanks to everybody for your help.

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Reply #74 – March 09, 2013, 08:40:08 PM

I think you still need to find out why your cats got clogged.