Skip to main content
Topic: (New Goodies)Need Your Opinion on Headlight Color!(Lots of Pics) (Read 34763 times) previous topic - next topic

(New Goodies)Need Your Opinion on Headlight Color!(Lots of Pics)

Reply #120
I've been working on building a LED driver to power (at 2 output levels) a 2000 lumen Bridgelux 25 LED array that I plan to run at 2250/3000 lumens.  I'm building one now, once it works, I'll build another.  Heat sinking and powering the LED array in a compact fashion is the easy part. shaping the output is hard. Regular projector geometries won't work, and available reflectors won't either, still the beam has to be shaped, or it will be a high beam all the time regardless of WHAT the output is tuned to. I'll update soon with pics if the interest is there.

(New Goodies)Need Your Opinion on Headlight Color!(Lots of Pics)

Reply #121
In california, modification of dot lenses is considered a felony, and they crush cars with not approved lenses/lights.

I think the only real way to go would be to go 4 eyes, get dot certified, or hope you don't get caught.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com


(New Goodies)Need Your Opinion on Headlight Color!(Lots of Pics)

Reply #123
Quote from: Seek;390282
I was just pointed to this thread. I agree that HID lighting is tons better than stock - I did this 5 years back using huge Acura TL projectors (not worth the hassle of using these). With stock headlights, good condition stock fog lights helped light up the road. With HIDs, the foglights do nothing on the road, and only light up things above the cutoff slightly (trees and such). Worth the project imo as our stock lights suck, even with new reflectors, lenses, and 14.4v at the bulb.

I agree that even in there best form our OEM lights suck. As for the HIDs in the foglight, anytime you put HIDs in place of the halogen bulb, the light pattern is going to be terrible. Halogen housings were not meant for HIDs. Did you put the Tls behind the factory lense? If so I can only imagine what the diffusers in the OEM lense did to your beam and light output.

Quote from: Seek;390282
1) 3 piece headlights. Doing a single piece front lens is almost as complicated as doing the tail lights. Not doing it is very ugly I would like to tackle this one day, but combining the headlight and inner marker is much easier than making the side marker light wrap around and inward. A proper way to do this would take a HUGE vacuum forming chamber and some far more unique molds to help the piece wrap 270 degrees around the piece. One could probably get away with 180 degree wraps through, since the rear edge of the side markers are nothing spectacular to look at already.

I think the hardest part of the three piece light would be making the inside of the housing/housings look good. The lense wouldn't be a a big deal, it would just take a couple of tries to get the best angle for the pulls. Having an oven large enough to heat the much plastic would be interesting! :p I don't think just doing the headlight is ugly at all, that is just matter of opinion :D. I do however think it makes our marker/signal lights look less than superb! :D

Quote from: Seek;390282
2) I miss the capability of having flash to pass, or other such usage. HID ballasts or bulbs don't like being turned on and off.

3) The ballast/igniters can be a bit of work to mount.

Flash to pass is nice but not really needed. As long as your HID uses a solenoid and shield to go from low to high beam, after the lights are on, you can flash them as much as you want. Also the newest generation of Morimoto ballasts were designed to handle the quick on/off that happens a lot with new cars and the auto headlight feature.

I didn't have any trouble whatsoever mounting the hardware. We have plenty of room to mount the ballasts, they aren't that big? Not really sure why this would be an issue to be honest?

Quote from: Seek;390282
4) HID bulbs have a terrible color rendering index. They do offer more LUMENS and more controlled light, but the CRI is MUCH lower than daylight and filament-based bulbs, like stock halogen. What this means - colors suck and you can't discern things as well or quickly as having a light with a higher CRI. HID is typically 60-70% of the color spectrum of daylight, halogen is up in the 90s, closer to 100. This is terrible for night safety.

Got to be honest, I don't understand most of what was typed here. :p It is just something I have absolutely no knowledge of. :dunno: From my own experience the projectors are a huge improvement and I haven't seen anything from them that would even come close to considering “terrible for night safety”. Terrible for safety was seeing the shadow of my car in my own headlights because everyone's lights were so much brighter than mine. :p

Quote from: Seek;390282
5) It isn't LED ;)

I'm trying to build a 3-axis CNC mill to start fabrication work and hope that precision cut parts can be made to use the front optics of HID projectors with 90+ CRI LED emitters (around 3000 kelvin). LEDs have gotten to the point that they are making HID obsolete (30W in led, plus 90% driver efficiency versus 35W hid plus 84% ballast efficiency for the same color temperatures and luminous output) and it's the next logical step for us to go to. So what say you X3? ;) I wish I could start, but between all my other body modifications (tail light Cree XRE emitters at 2W each, versus 27W stock bulb, led trunk lights to replace my CFL tubes, finishing up my carpc install (yay, nearly complete), building a CNC mill/lathe combination (starting), custom dash (less important), covered interior panels (after other interior work), etc...), my front lights are at a standstill. I need to find someone else to help the design and research phase of it all.

hehe Once again a lot of this is over my head. :p I am no where near a light expert, in fact I am a noob to the whole lighting world! :D From what I have read though, LEDs have an extreme heating/cooling problem. Car manufactures haven't even really figured out LED headlights. I think Mercedes and a couple of the other high end car makers have started to venture into LED headlights, but it is far from a mainstream tried and tested light. So far from all of the output pictures that I have seen, HID projectors are easily the widest, brightest, most uniform light (just my opinion :p). The light that comes out of the LS430 and LS460 projectors is amazing, it is even a huge improvement over the projectors that I am currently using.

Quote from: Seek;390282
Wish you were closer, for some collaborative efforts ;)

This would be awesome! :D
...and there was light!

(New Goodies)Need Your Opinion on Headlight Color!(Lots of Pics)

Reply #124
Quote from: TheFoeYouKnow;390285
Heat sinking and powering the LED array in a compact fashion is the easy part. shaping the output is hard. Regular projector geometries won't work, and available reflectors won't either, still the beam has to be shaped, or it will be a high beam all the time regardless of WHAT the output is tuned to. I'll update soon with pics if the interest is there.

I have some junk projectors here and LED emitters DO work fine with it from doing mockups. You just need one emitter firing straight forward, one firing to the left at about 30 degrees, and one firing to the right about 30 degrees. More efficiency can be gained by using more emitters in the shape of a projector's stock reflector and driving each at lower power. I've been in love with the entire range of Cree XM-L emitters since their introduction and now have a dozen flashlights with them, and 9 emitters (4 for bicycle light, 3 for trunk, two for backup lamps). Their higher CRI emitters will work great for headlights, if I ever get around to that project. I have some H6Flex drivers here just for the headlight project, whenever I get around to it.

Quote from: T-BirdX3;390310
I agree that even in there best form our OEM lights suck. As for the HIDs in the foglight, anytime you put HIDs in place of the halogen bulb, the light pattern is going to be terrible. Halogen housings were not meant for HIDs. Did you put the Tls behind the factory lense? If so I can only imagine what the diffusers in the OEM lense did to your beam and light output.

I just mean, the stock halogen lights do nothing for lighting up the road when using HID in the headlights. My headlight lenses were vacuum formed. I'm sure there are still pictures somewhere here on the forum.

Quote from: T-BirdX3;390310
Flash to pass is nice but not really needed. As long as your HID uses a solenoid and shield to go from low to high beam, after the lights are on, you can flash them as much as you want. Also the newest generation of Morimoto ballasts were designed to handle the quick on/off that happens a lot with new cars and the auto headlight feature.

It's more for other capabilities I'd like to build in. Most of my issue with HID's lighting speed is that I can't use a microcontroller to do things with it. Headlights coming on with a car alarm is a good thing, and rapid flickering will get attention. Paranoia, yes ;)

Quote from: T-BirdX3;390310
I didn't have any trouble whatsoever mounting the hardware. We have plenty of room to mount the ballasts, they aren't that big? Not really sure why this would be an issue to be honest?

A lot of ballasts that people get are not waterproof. I'm fine with potting the things if they aren't, but moisture sensitivity, and making a clean install, are things that make this all complicated. With LEDs, as long as the LED and driver is heatsinked (ideally to a custom headlight housing that can act like a heatsink itself), it'll work and is contained.

Quote from: T-BirdX3;390310
Got to be honest, I don't understand most of what was typed here. :p It is just something I have absolutely no knowledge of. :dunno: From my own experience the projectors are a huge improvement and I haven't seen anything from them that would even come close to considering “terrible for night safety”. Terrible for safety was seeing the shadow of my car in my own headlights because everyone's lights were so much brighter than mine. :p

Best way to see this is shine a halogen light at a grass lawn. Then shine a HID. The HID will make the grass look blue/gray while the halogen will give the grass the same color as you'd see during the day. Being able to discern different shades of colors is something that HID sucks at. The cooler color temp of HID is also terrible for any moisture in the air or on the road. Halogen lights up the road better in these conditions, even with less output. I'm hoping for some decently efficiency 3000K LED emitters soon that I can use for some headlights.

Quote from: T-BirdX3;390310
From what I have read though, LEDs have an extreme heating/cooling problem. Car manufactures haven't even really figured out LED headlights. I think Mercedes and a couple of the other high end car makers have started to venture into LED headlights, but it is far from a mainstream tried and tested light. So far from all of the output pictures that I have seen, HID projectors are easily the widest, brightest, most uniform light (just my opinion :p). The light that comes out of the LS430 and LS460 projectors is amazing, it is even a huge improvement over the projectors that I am currently using.

LEDs are pretty easy to cool actually. The problems with manufacturers isn't that they can't figure it out. Heating the housing/lens for evaporating moisture/melting ice is the difficulty since the easiest way to remove the heat is outside the housing, which doesn't help heat up the headlight itself. I have handheld flashlights that put 10W into a single emitter, and they have very little surface area for the output. Next to no heatsinking, and it takes the things over 10 minutes to warm up past luke-warm temperatures. I love my DRY light on turbo - 4A to each neutral tint emitter (3 total) which, other than the poor beam control from the simple reflector, lights up whatever I point at to a great degree. Also, iirc, the Prius offers LED now also, but they have a bad projector design with a plastic cutoff, which gets burned as the lens acts like a magnifying glass with the sun, aimed right at the plastic shield. This vehicle is the first with likely the most sales with LED headlights. DIY, it just takes some fabrication tools or ingenuity with metal stock.
1988 Thunderbird Sport

(New Goodies)Need Your Opinion on Headlight Color!(Lots of Pics)

Reply #125
My retrofit, looks similar:






And to show you guys how bad black would have looked (ABS):
1988 Thunderbird Sport

(New Goodies)Need Your Opinion on Headlight Color!(Lots of Pics)

Reply #126
And LED work to move forward with the trunk and tail lights. $8 in four drivers to power three XM-L emitters at 2.8A each. The breadboard has a weird issue with them, like the diodes aren't even there on the output, but the PCB build of the same circuit works excellent. May put an oscilloscope on it tomorrow to see why the breadboard flickers with four drivers.



LEDs today are excellent and are VERY easy to work with, and have so many benefits over everything else. How deep are the front/cutoff part of your lenses X3? The one thing I'd like to do is find a projector with a lens that allows the lens holder/cutoff to be shallow to make retrofits easier. I'm looking to build a CNC mill (likely router for awhile) to help fabricate stuff for our cars for people here and it would make custom rear-bowl holders for LEDs a lot easier to fabricate than using a manual mill. Making PCBs would also be nice.

Also, how did you do your lens mold? Just over the smoothed stock lenses? I found that the flutes cause a slight ripple effect if the lens isn't filled in with something to allow more even surface temperature over the lens/mold.

So what are your next projects? I looked in your thread history and you appear to have many of the same project interests that I have.
1988 Thunderbird Sport

(New Goodies)Need Your Opinion on Headlight Color!(Lots of Pics)

Reply #127
This is what I'm working with: http://www.newark.com/bridgelux/bxra-c2002-00e00/led-high-brightness-cool-white/dp/56T4716
http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=40P3875
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/500 I chose the 28pin breakout because my driver has to have a heatsink, and with the 28pin, I can run one parallel to the pins.

The main components of interest, anyway.  The array throws 120 degrees and is about the size of a nickel plus it's carrier.  I've heatsinked it with the aluminum and copper heatsink from a socket 1155 cpu, so I've got good and efficient dissipation of heat, that should hang out of the back of the housing.  I considered a dual pattern projector, but I'd have to throw the back bowl out and create a custom one based on different needs such as focal length and lens height, as well as cutoff position.  My color temp is 5600k and my bench mockups at full power have yielded so far 2950 lumens, which is just above the output of a 50w HID.

Anyway, when I get there I'll probably end up putting them in the wife's SHO.  My T-bird already has a halogen based projector retrofit (from some halogen E55's I had lying around) that I'm going to throw completely out, and redo at some point, but she needs something better than what she has more than I do.

(New Goodies)Need Your Opinion on Headlight Color!(Lots of Pics)

Reply #128
Quote from: TheFoeYouKnow;390329
The main components of interest, anyway.  The array throws 120 degrees and is about the size of a nickel plus it's carrier.  I've heatsinked it with the aluminum and copper heatsink from a socket 1155 cpu, so I've got good and efficient dissipation of heat, that should hang out of the back of the housing.  I considered a dual pattern projector, but I'd have to throw the back bowl out and create a custom one based on different needs such as focal length and lens height, as well as cutoff position.


That's the problem with the optics - 120 degrees from a single emitter isn't enough for good beam width. Aiming two emitters inward, across the center, will help bounce light off the reflector on the opposite side and return the beam width. Foreground may be a bit more limited than with HID bulbs also, so having an emitter or two aiming upward would improve the nearer lighting. All this takes fabrication though - welding some aluminum stock would work roughly as well as precision machine for this, but it IS a lot more work.

Where are you planning on sticking the heatsink? It's a pain to work back there in our cars, but then again, if you do it right, you won't have to maintain the driver or LED(s).
1988 Thunderbird Sport

(New Goodies)Need Your Opinion on Headlight Color!(Lots of Pics)

Reply #129
Quote from: Seek;390325


I'm somewhat suprised by the lack of width and distance in this picture. I think I remember reading that the TL projectors were a nice projector. I know it is hard to capture the true quality of beam in a picture but... IDK.



I can easily light up like 5 lanes of highway. Probably just the pictures IDk.

I will be back later to answer the rest, posting from mobile isn't quite as easy as a desktop! lol
...and there was light!

(New Goodies)Need Your Opinion on Headlight Color!(Lots of Pics)

Reply #130
120 Degrees would be fine once sent through a projector lens at the right height from the array.  Therein lies the problem, the projector bowl is in the way, and the shield isn't close enough to the lens.  I still think my 25 SMD micro-array is the way to go.

(New Goodies)Need Your Opinion on Headlight Color!(Lots of Pics)

Reply #131
Quote from: T-BirdX3;390367
I'm somewhat suprised by the lack of width and distance in this picture. I think I remember reading that the TL projectors were a nice projector. I know it is hard to capture the true quality of beam in a picture but... IDK.

It's the picture. I also have some with other shutter speeds, but note the curve/dip of the road and lack of lighting above the road. This was in front of the house, and out on flats it is much better. Of course, the high beam is excellent on these bixenons. The width is great, but I could use new bulbs. I had some new Philips bulbs but I sold them as I plan to replace the entire reflector bowl of some projectors (likely not using TL for this) with LEDs. I WAS going to use some small TSX for quad projectors, and still have the second pair of ballasts in the garage, but again the LED project made me drop that desire. Projector depth will matter more for me now, and I hope to find something with a far more convex lens. There are a lot more options out there today, and more affordable, then there were in the early and mid 2000s when I started researching and looking for parts. Once you have a clear lens, half the work is done.
1988 Thunderbird Sport

(New Goodies)Need Your Opinion on Headlight Color!(Lots of Pics)

Reply #132
On another note, using four PT4115 drivers in parallel was working in my first prototype PCB, but I have been unable to reproduce the functionality on a breadboard or second PCB. All I get is flickering up to about 12V. Diodes and capacitors don't help. Not sure these drivers like being parallel to one another, due to their sense resistors. It appears some drivers put out more while others sit idle when I have four in parallel. Two in parallel have the same flickering. It's a shame as I have many of these drivers. It's starting to look as if TaskLED offers the only decent 3A buck drivers :(
1988 Thunderbird Sport

(New Goodies)Need Your Opinion on Headlight Color!(Lots of Pics)

Reply #133
Quote from: Seek;390324
A lot of ballasts that people get are not waterproof. I'm fine with potting the things if they aren't, but moisture sensitivity, and making a clean install, are things that make this all complicated.


The Morimoto Ballasts are waterproof so they are a simple bolt on.

Quote from: Seek;390324
Best way to see this is shine a halogen light at a grass lawn.

 
I hadn't noticed this before, it is a slightly different shade in color.

I posted on your old thread earlier when I was working on my build.

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?19942-88-Thunderbird-w-TL-s
...and there was light!