Starter Problem Solved! Reply #60 – June 06, 2010, 07:11:00 PM jrad235,No worries on my side. I was just wondering if the one OReilly's was selling was different than the one at Ford. I am a BIG believer in Ford parts especially when it comes to the heater cores. Anyhow, it sounds like they are the same so it may save some folks a few dollars.bigdaddygb,I just tried that on my Coupe and it cranked just fine. Maybe something is wrong with your key cylinder? I cannot try it on the Bird as I disconnected that and tossed it in the trash years ago. I have an 85 TC steering column in the 83 due to the tilt mechanism failing and the TC column did not have the shift selector in the column as well which was a bonus when I converted the car to a standard tranmission.Darren Quote Selected
Starter Problem Solved! Reply #61 – June 06, 2010, 10:29:27 PM Quote from: jrad235;324454So....You didn't want to go get the $40 one from Ford why?But at this point, if it does it immediately after installing the solenoid, it probably is the starter. And it will be a bitch to replace. I forgot to install mine before I put the motor in. That sucked. I believe your life will be easier if you remove the Pass. Side front wheel.Oh I had already bought one months ago and I installed it and recently replaced that one. I just exchanged it under warranty. I will see how it does with the new starter and if I still have issues, I will try a Motorcraft. I sell the BWD's all the time at work and I never see these coming back as defective. Quote Selected
Starter Problem Solved! Reply #62 – June 06, 2010, 10:32:33 PM Quote from: Watchdevil;324535 I sell the BWD's all the time at work and I never see these coming back as defective.I sold BWD parts for 15 years and cannot recall any "bad " solenoids :D Quote Selected
Starter Problem Solved! Reply #63 – June 06, 2010, 10:35:35 PM Quote from: hypostang;324466I have always used a really long extension for the top bolt on the starter and gone in from in front of the K member :DNow this will be helpful... I hope it does not turn out too difficult... The process of tending to the mechanical restoration is now beginning. Today I discovered the ground strap bolted to the firewall free spinning and I had to tighten it. However I already installed a new negative battery cable to replace the one that was bolted to the lower front of the engine. When I did that I discovered that the original cable had an attachment crimped in that grounded it to the frame rail before it went to the battery. Quote Selected
Starter Problem Solved! Reply #64 – June 06, 2010, 11:08:45 PM Quote from: Watchdevil;324535Oh I had already bought one months ago and I installed it and recently replaced that one. I just exchanged it under warranty. I will see how it does with the new starter and if I still have issues, I will try a Motorcraft. I sell the BWD's all the time at work and I never see these coming back as defective.I would be shocked if you had an issue after installing the new-style starter, they draw WAY less power. Quote Selected
Starter Problem Solved! Reply #65 – June 07, 2010, 12:22:54 AM Quote from: jrad235;324559I would be shocked if you had an issue after installing the new-style starter, they draw WAY less power.I have had my sights on doing a high torque starter from the get go simply because it has a "newer tech" sound have when starting so it sounds less like an old clunker... The cherry on top is the advantages the new starter will functionally have. Quote Selected
Starter Problem Solved! Reply #66 – June 07, 2010, 03:36:58 AM Quote from: Watchdevil;324576simply because it has a "newer tech" soundQuote from: Watchdevil;324576 The cherry on top is the advantages the new starter will functionally have.Because sounding like a chevy is more important than reliability, battery draw, and easier starting? I pulled the injector relays out of my dad's super duty a few days ago to diagnose an unrelated issue, while cranking in a no-start test, it sounded exactly like the '80s Chebby trucks...Personally, I'd put little thought, if any, to what the things sounds like, so long as it works better than the stock, heavier piece.Here's food for thought:My first vehicle was a 1974 Jeep J10 truck. Was a . Ford starter, GM-style alternator, Ford-like dizzy/rotor/points, and carb.Had a Chevy TH400 trans, with an AMC bolt pattern.After about the third replacement starter I did away with the fender mounted starter relay bullshiznit, and swapped in a GM style starter. Never had to bother with it again.Oh yeah, went through a few starter relays (solenoids) as well.Best thing was the Holley 650 and the bigger cam that I put in when I rebuilt the engine in 1995 for a school project.Thankfully we have 3g and 4 g alts now, so no more adapting GM alts to our stuff, but back in the day, their starters were better, stock against stock, than Fords. My .02.... Quote Selected
Starter Problem Solved! Reply #67 – June 07, 2010, 06:57:11 AM I have not seen a Chevy starter that looked like it would bolt into our cars. One of the things that I need to do to my car is the starter. Sometimes it hangs and hits the flywheIel. I would much rather replace the starter then the flywheel. Quote Selected
Starter Problem Solved! Reply #68 – June 07, 2010, 09:29:19 AM If you really want to solve the issues with the stock starting/charging system on these cars start at the battery and pull off every cable from the battery to the starter solenoid down to the starter and toss them in the trash can. Do the same with all of the grounding cables as well. Take the charging wire from the alternator to the starting solenoid with the F'n inline diodes and toss it as well.Go down to your local welding supply store and purchase some 4 Ga welding lead, and the various 4 Ga lugs to attach to the alternator, starter, solenoid, and battery. Build your own 12V+ cables from the alternator to the starter solenoid, start solenoid to the battery, and one from the starter solenoid to the starter. Use red heat shrink on all the lugs on these leads. I typically double up the heat shrink on each connection to ensure is it sealed up. The second one is longer than the first to create two seals. Typically the cable run from the starter solenoid to the alternator calculates out to handling about a 140 amp load. Simply install a wafer fuse holder with a 125A wafer fuse and the line is protected like the diodes did on the anemic 12 Ga wire. You can find all kinds of charts and calculators online that will calculate the load a cable can handle as this depends on gauge and length. Build the 12V- cables to go from the battery to the strut tower, from the strut tower to the K-member and from the K-member to the engine block. Use black heat shrink doubled up on the lug connections on these cables.If your battery is trunk mounted use at least 2 Ga wires if not 0 Ga wire with a high compression motor. If you do not like the idea of using the red heat shrink for the 12V+ lines you can go to a local car stereo store and pay $3/ft to get red 4 Ga cable versus the $1/ft for the 4 Ga black welding cable. Its even more of a cost differential for the larger gauge cables.One thing you should have access to is a mechanical crimper for the lug ends to the cable. I got mine at Waytek:http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/462/CRIMPER%20HAMMER%20TOOL%208GA%204/0/I have wired three of my cars this way and several of my friends and the results have been simply stellar. It is a bit of work and it does cost some $$$ but the results are definitely worth it in my opinion. Again, this is just what I do as the stock gear is junk in my opinion. I worked as a certified car stereo installer for years in school and the factory wiring on most cars is sized to support the factory loads. When you jump from one of the old alternators to one of the newer 3G or 4G alternators the factory cables on these cars will not get the full amperage the newer alternator to the starter solenoid.Anyhow, enough of my rambling. This was just meant to get you thinking as to what the stock wiring was sized to do and what we typically require it to do with hotter ignitions, stereos, bigger fuel pumps, higher compression motors which tax the starters, etc.Darren Quote Selected
Starter Problem Solved! Reply #69 – June 07, 2010, 12:27:20 PM That actually sounds like a stellar idea, Darren. I have a question, though.Quote from: AerocoupeBuild your own 12V+ cables from the alternator to the starter solenoid, start solenoid to the battery, and one from the starter solenoid to the alternator.You said 12V+ from the alternator to the starter solenoid and from the solenoid to the alternator. Is that the same cable or are there two different ones between those components? Quote Selected
Starter Problem Solved! Reply #70 – June 07, 2010, 09:47:30 PM Fixed. I meant starter solenoid to the starter. Thanks for the catch. Darren Quote Selected
Starter Problem Solved! Reply #71 – June 09, 2010, 05:53:24 AM Well it's fixed! Today I put in the new high torque starter. No more problems. Works perfectly. And it was very simple to install. Quote Selected
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