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Topic: Work in Progress - DIY Frame Rail Replacement - 56k Hell - Updated 11/15 (Read 10762 times) previous topic - next topic

Work in Progress - DIY Frame Rail Replacement - 56k Hell - Updated 11/15

Reply #60 –
werd!

get at least a 130amp welder. those are some really cold welds.
1979 Ford Fairmont
[/B]
5.0L/4R70W/8.8"/5-lug/3" Exhuast

Work in Progress - DIY Frame Rail Replacement - 56k Hell - Updated 11/15

Reply #61 –
ok, i'll have to turn it up then.
FYI I'm using 1/8" 1611 @ ~90amps

Work in Progress - DIY Frame Rail Replacement - 56k Hell - Updated 11/15

Reply #62 –
Nasty looking welds dude.  grind it out.  that wont hold shiznit, and will break after a few bumps......  This IS NOT a project you should be tackling if you dont have a clue how to weld.....

Work in Progress - DIY Frame Rail Replacement - 56k Hell - Updated 11/15

Reply #63 –
Get your mom's BF's welder. Those welds don't look like they'll hold the weight of the car let alone taking any bumps. I don't mean to be so negative, but that's your life you're welding there.
But I will say that you have some really big balls for tackeling that job without previous experience or the right tools.


86' T/C 4.6L DOHC
16' Chebby Cruze 1.4L Turbo
17’ Peterbilt 389 600hp 1850ftlb Trq 18spd

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“Heavy Metal Mistress”
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Work in Progress - DIY Frame Rail Replacement - 56k Hell - Updated 11/15

Reply #64 –
Quote from: 1BadBird;187838
Get your mom's BF's welder. Those welds don't look like they'll hold the weight of the car let alone taking any bumps. I don't mean to be so negative, but that's your life you're welding there.
But I will say that you have some really big balls for tackeling that job without previous experience or the right tools.


Yeah, I'll have to ask him this weekend if I can borrow it.

The ones in the front are good and strong (even though they look shiznitty), it's the welds in the back near the firewall that aren't very good.

That's fine for the criticism. At least everyone's trying to help me, supportive, and is giving me some good advice on what to do.

Work in Progress - DIY Frame Rail Replacement - 56k Hell - Updated 11/15

Reply #65 –
Since I'll more than likely be borrowing a MIG, and I've never personally used one, any tips for getting good welds?

PM sent

Reply #66 –
I sent you a rather long PM. Hope it helps.


86' T/C 4.6L DOHC
16' Chebby Cruze 1.4L Turbo
17’ Peterbilt 389 600hp 1850ftlb Trq 18spd

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

“Heavy Metal Mistress”
[/COLOR][/SIZE]

Work in Progress - DIY Frame Rail Replacement - 56k Hell - Updated 11/15

Reply #67 –
Quote from: 1BadBird;187856
I sent you a rather long PM. Hope it helps.


Yep, just replied.  Thanks, that should help me for welding thick to thin.

Anyone else with any tips, go ahead a send them to me!

Work in Progress - DIY Frame Rail Replacement - 56k Hell - Updated 11/15

Reply #68 –
This probably won't be as complete as the PM you just got, but I'll offer a brief suggestion - After grinding most of the existing welds down, do a few tacks, then look on the back side to ensure you're getting good penetration. You probably can't see behind all of it, so start in areas where you can see the backside. Read those welds and adjust your heat accordingly. Once you start using a MIG, you'll never touch your stick welder again. Have fun!
1987 Turbo Coupe - Son's car
1987 Super Coupe - Son's project car
1934 Ford - My project car

Work in Progress - DIY Frame Rail Replacement - 56k Hell - Updated 11/15

Reply #69 –
Quote from: FLSTCI71;187863
Once you start using a MIG, you'll never touch your stick welder again. Have fun!


How true, how true :D  But then again once you've used a TIG setup, you don't want to use MIG much either. :hick:


86' T/C 4.6L DOHC
16' Chebby Cruze 1.4L Turbo
17’ Peterbilt 389 600hp 1850ftlb Trq 18spd

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

“Heavy Metal Mistress”
[/COLOR][/SIZE]

Work in Progress - DIY Frame Rail Replacement - 56k Hell - Updated 11/15

Reply #70 –
practice getting good penetration on separate pecies, but be careful not to go to hot as to blow through. I like pulling the welder when I weld(weld towards yourself) and slow circular motions. I may not be the greatest welder, but a novice thats my best advice. O and for good welds, flux core is NOT what you want, go to a gas mig.
RIP 1988 and 1990 Lincoln Mark VII LSC
I welcomed the dark side and currently am driving a 2000 Dodge Durango SLT plus, with a 5.9, Code named project "Night Runner"
Shes black on black, fully loaded, with headers, 180 tstat, e fan, straight exhaust into a cherry bomb vortex ler, full tune up, ported intake and T/B, MSD coil, and round aircleaner.
Mods to come: Fully rebuilt and heavily modded 46RE, and a richmond rachet locker.
my $300 beater ;)
R.I.P Kayleigh Raposa 12/18/90 - 2/24/07

Work in Progress - DIY Frame Rail Replacement - 56k Hell - Updated 11/15

Reply #71 –
Don't worry about pretty. that comes with practice. and helps to have a gas mig. do what FLSTCI71 said. Its the real easy way to check the weld depth. I'd check it on some s materials of what your using also. easy to check the weld when you can see an end view too. If your still not satisfied. whack it with a BFH. see if it breaks
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***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
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5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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Work in Progress - DIY Frame Rail Replacement - 56k Hell - Updated 11/15

Reply #72 –
Yes, practice on some s pieces first. Look up welding on the web and see what a good weld and a bad weld looks like, yours is too cold with no penitration...BTW, you will have to grind all the old welds down and do it over right. Your fab skills are there, but you need the right tooling, but you already know that. Keep up the good work and don't give up.
88 TC with 93 GT 5.0 (.030 over), XE266HR Compcam, SVO 1.6 Roller Rockers, BBK underdrives, BBK 1 5/8" headers, 2 1/2" exhuast with Americian Thunder Flowmaster lers. Tremec 5 speed and 3.73's and alot of other goodies to list.....

Work in Progress - DIY Frame Rail Replacement - 56k Hell - Updated 11/15

Reply #73 –
Wow that's what my welds look like if I'm using my mig on a 100' extension cord. No penetration.

Are you using old welding rods or something?

BTW, I just gotta say it...now that you got the box tubing front end, is a straight axle with leaf springs next? :hick:  gasser style!

Garrett H.
'94 F250 XLT- 4x4, 5 speed, 7.3 IDI Turbo Diesel, 4" intake, 4" exhaust, 5" turnout stacks, manual hubs, etc.
'87 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
Engine, wheels, tires, etc!
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Work in Progress - DIY Frame Rail Replacement - 56k Hell - Updated 11/15

Reply #74 –
Quote from: Red_LX;188091
Wow that's what my welds look like if I'm using my mig on a 100' extension cord. No penetration.

Are you using old welding rods or something?

BTW, I just gotta say it...now that you got the box tubing front end, is a straight axle with leaf springs next? :hick:  gasser style!


I'm using a 50' cord, could probably use a 30, but don't want to cut it down.

I'm using new welding rods.

Nope, everything is going back in the way I took it out.

Oh, and for those of you wondering, I'm putting an 86' t-bird V6 & AOD in.