Does anyone know how much air (CFM) a 302 CFI throttle body flows? This would be for a 1983/84 302 in a T-Bird chassis. Are the 3.8L the same with just bigger injectors? I read it sometime ago, but can't remember where or how much. Thanks, Fred
Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't the injectors on a SFI go into the heads? That means at least a head change, along with manifold, sensors, ETC. Put a V8 in. Good luck, Fred
I have a TransGo shift kit and governor kit installed in my AOD. I would trade your staying in third, as mine will shift at 5500, 1 to 2, 2 to 3 but at 4800 in third it shifts to OD and crosses the 1/4 mile at 4400 in OD. This is in a 83 'Bird with a junk yard '89 '5.0L and 4.1 gears. These are all flat on the floor automatic upshifts. The TransGo kit is credited with saving the trans as it started life behind a 232 ci six! The trans shop that installed the kit and a 2800 convertor is still waiting for me to blow it up. So far so good. The one thing I do is, set the T/V rod linkage per specification. This is checked twice a year and set real close to the shop manual tolerances. Trans kit was installed about 350 runs ago and all's well. You might double check you T/V adjustment. Good luck, Fred
My race car is an '83 Heritage with vent windows. I thought they all had them, but now that I looked at the '83 new car literature, they don't show one at all! Strange, what! Fred
On my '83 the rod pushes the lever on the trans down to effect throttle pressure changes. The Lokar (and later factory cable linkage) pulls on the lever, if I am correct. Did you change the lever on the trans with the one supplied by Lokar? When I checked into using the cable versus my rod linkage, the lever on the trans had to be changed, for it to operate with a cable linkage. Maybe someone who has cable linkage can confirm this, and help you. Fred
On my '83 I made a 25 cent bracket out of aluminum to drive the T/V rod. I slotted the bracket for adjustment, and did use a tranny pressure gauge. 0 to 5 PSI at idle speed, and 35 to 38 PSI at .400" of throttle travel. Remember idle speed is zero to 1 PSI, I idle at 1100 RPMs (drag car) not 700 RPMs like the manual says. With the Trans Go shift kit it is real consistant. 5500 to second, 5500 to drive, and 4100 into OD with my foot flat on the floor. I'm still using the column shift and don't move it to obtain the above. The cable is the way to go, but you can make to rod linkage work well, just think it out. Good luck, Fred
Do you have the room to run a 1" spacer? I have an '83 Heritage with a '89 5.0l HO, using a Edelbrock Performer and Holley 600 Vacuum secondary, with a Ford Motorsports 13" open air cleaner, and I only have 3/4" space above the combo. My is a real tight fit, under a stock hood. I believe the Wieand and Edelbrock RPM manifolds are even higher at the carb pad, so go easy on height. P.S. Spacers change the air signal to the carb, so be ready to rejet, change Power Valves or change secordary spring to make a vacuum carb work best! Good luck, Fred
I run an 83 'Bird using a 89 5.0L H.O., with a 4bbl manifold and a 600 Holley Vacuum Secondary carb. Back to back runs at a drag strip (trap tickets) show a delta of .150 seconds between 85 degree vrs 100 degree weather conditions. The launch and tire spin have more effect on performance, than cold fuel. Can't hurt but no big speed secret. The density altitude we run at is like 6000' elevation, but low humidity. You would gain more performance from distributor mods than a cool can. I won't go into a gear change due to the fact I don't drive on the street, let it be said, a cam and gear change would be something you could feel in the seat of the pants. Remember there is a fine line between streetability and raw horsepower, step over and it isn't fun anymore. If your still running a 2150 carb, go to a Holley #4412 2bbl. You would be amazed how hard it will pull. Gas milage will suffer, but it's a poor mans 4bbl substitute. Good luck, Fred
Paul, Thanks for the tip, I'll try it. When I adjust it towards the trans (to the rear), the shift points go to higher RPM's. Thunderjet, IMO the shift kit will help with reliability in a working older transmission. It will change the timing of shifts so that no slippage occurs, and this is good. I would not change the governor weights, too radically, as this raises the shift points, but the basic kit should be good for your trans. Mine had 177K miles on it and was in good condition but still beniifited from the mod. Good luck, Fred
I had a TransGo Kit installed in my 177K mile AOD and it works well, first with the 3.8L V6 and now with a mild 5.0 H.O. conversion. The shifts are "chrip crisp" and the shifts are 5500 RPMs into 2nd, 5200 RPM's into high. My only complaint is it won't stay in third, as it will upshift to OD at 4400 RPM's ( just at the first timing light) in the 1/4 mile, killing my MPH. I do not drive on the street, but figure if you don't flog it too much it should work fine. Remember my trans has V6 guts in it, I.E. less clutches and plates. If it holds my combo, and it does, it is a good mod IMHO. Anyway, any shift kit is better than none, for reliablity. Fred
C-6 tranny has the big block bellhousing. Small block C-6's are rare and most came on engines back in the 60's. T-5, the 5.0L version is rated at 300 LBS of torque, the 4 cylinder ones are much less, but if used with that in mind, I believe they bolt up. Good luck, Fred
