The water pump on my 87 T-Bird Sport 5.0L blew like a geyser yesterday after doing a hard test drive. Opened the hood and water was gushing out of the hole that's on the top of the water pump like Old Faithful. WOW! Went online looking to see what prices were before I went to the parts store. I see there are several different types of water pumps now available, Reman, New Standard, Heavy Duty, High Performance, Reverse Rotation. I know what Reman is and Standard is probably like OEM. But how does the Heavy Duty and High Performance compare and what is Reverse Rotation? The engine which drives the water pump only turns one way so how can the rotation be reversed? Also do you know which brand name would be better and last longer. Thanks.
Has anybody ever used that Extrude Hone process? I was checking out their prices on the web at http://www.gethoned.com and they seamed expensive compared to hand porting. I was looking to get better performance from new manifolds and heads. Thanks.
Has anyone ever replaced their Ford computer system with an aftermarket engine management system? I was wondering what all these systems could do and if they epa legal? Like can they be adjusted so your car can get better mpg and when required more hp?
I guess the Power brake booster is working. I haven't tested it but I'm able to press the brake pedal down with my hand or a broom handle when the car is up on jack stands.
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flushed and refilled with fresh fluid and bled
I'll need to get some new fluid to do this.
Could any of the rubber brake hoses have an effect on braking?
It's been over 10 years since the brake fluid was changed and the system bleed. I've never had the lid on the master cyl off since then. I've been checking fluid level thru the transparent reservoir.
The brake rotors were replaced with new ones and I cleaned them in gasoline and then brakeleen to remove the anti-rust coating. The pads are a semi-metalic type. Don't recall the name brands of the rotors, pads or shoes.
After my Tbrid was rear-ended the tail lights that the body shop installed started to seperate and get dusty. I went back to the body shop and they used a black urathane sealer they used to install windshields. No problem since and that was 1997.
I'm concerend something is wrong with the stopping power of the brakes on my 87 Tbird Sport. The car has the stock size wheels/tires. The brake pads/rotors and shoes/drums look good and the rear self-adjusters are working correctly. Also the brake pedal is firm when pressed. Yet no matter how hard I slam on the brakes at any speed the brakes never lock-up and the stopping distance seams unusually long. I'm the original owner of the car and have never known the brakes to lock-up. Is this normal on Tbirds or could there be something wrong?
I've been driving another car lately so when I got back to driving my 87 tbird I noticed that the drivers seating position was not centered with the steering wheel. On my 87 the steering wheel is right of center a couple of inches compared to the drivers seat. Checked the seat and it was mounted securely, so was the steering wheel. So I wonder why Ford made my car like that? All these years and I just now noticed it. Are your tbirds like this or is mine the only one?
I'm planning on rebuilding the SO 5.0 engine in my 87 tbird to the HO varity. Depending on which combination of parts the compression ratio can vary from 8.7 to 12.0. I want to continue using the 87 octane pump gas but while I'm asking I might as well ask for the other octanes.
If you please would answer, What is the max compression ratio the 5.0 HO engine can take that won't cause pinging/detionation using the 87, 89, and 92 octane gasoline? Also does engine cubic inchs make a difference? Was considering stroking the engine.
I did install a adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Guess my subconscious made me forget about it with all the trouble I had with the 19lb injectors. Tried for weeks to get a smooth idle. Never could so I gave up and reinstalled the 14lb injectors. The closes I came to a smooth idle was enlarging the TPS mounting holes and then screwing the throttle base screw all the down and then readjusting the TPS to the correct voltage. Doing this caused the idle-bypass valve to have no effect. Drive was ok but still had a surging idle in Park and the exhaust still had a unburnt fuel odor. This is where I came to the conclusion what the engine needed was more air. Thus the search for a larger intake manifold and TB.
Since this is a daily ride I've made just a few changes as time premitted. Such as 1.7 rockers, removed air silencer, ud pullies, magnaflow cats and a custom borla exhaust, urathane rear axle bushings because oe's wore out. Found out the hard way a speed density 5.0 can't run 19lb injectors, wouldn't idle. Picked up a stock HO intake manifold and TB from the junkyard last summer. I was thinking of trying this first since I'd only need to change the upper intake and TB. Then I saw this BBK manifold at Summit and someone had it on ebay. Stupid people bid the price higher than the Summit price.
If a larger intake does work and I see this BBK requires the lower manifold to be changed I'd probaly get the engine overhauled or maybe a crate engine.
I took a look at your cougar web site. I can't tell but when you reinstalled the engine did you reconnect the AC? If so did you use R-12 or convert it to R-134?
