Sequential tails are nice. Cant have them they are illegal in my state!!!!
Hmm, illegal huh? I wonder how Ford gets around that problem, what with the new Mustang having sequential tails and all? Can that feature be turned off?
There are initial costs of making the short run molds, therefore being able to recover those costs is something of a concern. A small run of 10-20 would very likely cover those initial costs.
Quote from: daminc;396997
how about interior parts like the cups on the door handles?,.... maybe other interior panels? a gauge pod really made for our cars, or other custom mod parts
I can make molds for just about anything, but some things, such as items with textures, complicate the mold making process, especially with regard to short run molds. short run Injection molds are typically made from aluminum and those would need to be outsourced, or the quality of the piece would suffer and as a result, the cost per unit would be higher. Would you provide me a picture of the "cups" you're talking about? With regard to the gauge pod, are you referring to a pillar pod or something else entirely? If a pillar pod, do all of our cars use the same pillar or is that something specific to generation, e.g. '87-88, etc.?
The clear facia of the one piece assemblies would be have to be outsourced to a local shop that has done similar work for me in the past. Their charges are reasonable however and they typically charge me by the hour plus materials. I have watched with interest several others using home made vacuum formed lenses made of acrylic. I believe the material they are using is much too thin for more than a one off piece and will very likely cloud and yellow in a very short time due to oxidation, UV and heat. I think I can make the "cup pieces" with 8 molds, four for each side. What I mean by that is the outer marker and the headlamp would be a single mold, the inner marker would be a separate mold, since these are unique to each type of header panel, one for Cougars, one for base 'Birds and one for the TC.
I have a TC header, so I would need to locate a base 'Bird header panel in addition to both of your offers.
My apologies for hijacking the thread, perhaps I need to create a new thread for this topic, eh?
Thunderbirds and Cougars were built to be cruisers, large enough to comfortably seat 4. If someone wants what is essentially a two seater that can comfortably seat 2 adults, 1 child, one small dog and a 15lb. sack of dog food, get a Mustang.
Thats a THICK spacer. Maybe it sank to much and put stress on the uppers ear. We had issues like this on some HONDA ENGINES. Sometimes those thick spacers can cause uneven clamping. Just a thought!!!
You may be right, but IIRC, those bolts are only supposed to be torqued to 25ft. lbs. or so. It isn't very much, which is why I asked. The stress which you discuss would likely only happen if the manifold was already damaged or weakened in that area... or maybe something hit the manifold...like maybe the hood?
Tom Renko might know off the top of his head about the resistor packs in that model, but generally speaking, blower speeds are limited by tapping off voltages in a "resistor pack", which is nothing more than several resistors in series with taped output between each resistor. Here is a quick and dirty for you:
Resistors: A, B, C and D all of the same value and wattage, for simplicity, and 12 volts for source voltage.
[GROUND]->A->B->C->D->[Source Voltage]
If I checked the voltage at the junction between B and C, I would see 6 volts (v). If I checked the voltage at the junction between C and D, I would see 9 volts (v). If I checked the voltage at the junction between A and B, I would see 3 volts (v).
If I use this voltage to supply the blower motor (fan), the motor would turn slower at a lower voltage, hence the speed control. Most modern automobile bypass the resistor pack on high to avoid the high current draw through the switch.
As for the defroster and speakers, If this model has a trunk and the speakers are mounted in the package tray, you might want to check for cabling and connectors that may have gotten torn loose, usually happening when someone overstuffs the trunk and the wiring gets snagged.
Of course the two symptoms might be completely unrelated, but if no loose wiring is located, the next step would be to check for voltage (a simple test light will do) at the connection(s) on both sides of the defroster "grid" with the defroster switch turned "on", one side is going to be voltage and the other side ground. This will tell you whether or not you are getting voltage or not, but if you do, then you know that you don't have a popped fuse and that the switch is working as well. If no voltage is present, you might have to consult the "EVTM" for that model to troubleshoot further.
By 12 volt sources, I assume you mean the jacks that look like cigarette lighter sockets, right? If so, the outside metal part is ground and the "pin" at the back of the socket should be 12 volts or so. Some of these are hot only when the key is on and others are always hot. In either case, both are fused and may or may not share a fuse in the fuse block.
Eh, that intake can be repaired. Out of curiosity, what was that bolt torqued to and is that is phenolic spacer I see peeking out between the upper and lower?
86Cougar, I don't believe anyone is upset and certainly not with you. What you are seeing is experience in doing things the "right", or most efficient way vs. several ways to accomplish the task at hand with limited tools. Something like this is always going to be easier, faster and safer with the engine out of the car, but most of us also recognize that the best way isn't always possible with limited resources.
1BadBird, I understand that the IRS from a Cobra will almost bolt right up, but I have also read that the IRS from a Mark VIII will work too. How difficult is the swap and do you have more detailed pictures and instructions that those in your build thread?
Beyond what FirstBird noted, lack of snowflakes, flat hood, 3.8l V6, no center console, bench seat with consolette... It's only overpriced by about $14,000 or so... maybe they have it listed at 15,000 rubles, rupees or pesos. as a clean rust free roller, the shell is worth between $300-600
