I will get a new cable asap...looking in junkyards...the thing is that the TV cable was fine until I started to mess with it and it broke..after I removed it acted the same but if this is the problem I will fix immediately then re-post...I apologize for my ignorance as I am unfamiliar with AOD's..Thanks for the heads-up!!!
Car will not shift until it reached 3000-3500rpm depending on how much throttle I'm giving it. It will also jerk into lower gear when letting off the throttle (and braking). It was working fine, then one day a week or so ago started doing this..Thought it might have been the TV/Kickdown Cable but I accidentally broke the rail on the block mechanism near the throttle body and have removed it as I assumed it is only needed to kick the car down into passing gear...
That being said, I have also looked for a transmission MODULATOR, to check for a bad vacuum or part only to discover that the transmission has no modulator (there are not vacuum lines running from the tranny at all, just the steel lines to the radiator..the tranny was replaced about 3-4 years ago and reads "FORD AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE METRIC" on it)...I have also checked the fluid color and level and everything checks out.
Does this mean that I have an internal problem with the tranny, or is it something else causing the long, harder than normal shifts?
Ok so I accidentally broke the rail on the throttle cable bracket part of the TV (kickdown) cable...Anyone know where the best place to find one is? Junkyard I'm guessing...
Also, There is a problem with the throttle cable, so as I am removing it, I can see one end goes to the gas pedal and the other goes into the body of the driver's side fender...WHERE DOES THAT GO? I can not locate it for the death of me...
Also, I believe that the pedal cable has a crimp on it to keep it from being sloppy that is not doing its job...easiest repair?
I have an 88 XR-7, stock, that has just recently had a problem of getting up to high RPM before shifting.
Normally it shifts at/around 2200rpm but lately, out of nowhere, it started to not shift until 3000. After a couple days, it seemed to fix itself so I kept driving it. Now, it has come back and seems to be worse (will not shift until 3500rpms or so). It is shifting harder than normal, but I think it is because if the RPM its at. It is the same for all gears, not just 1st or 2nd, so I'm guessing its not a tranny problem...
I ran the self test with the following results:
KOEO: 31 - PFE or EVP intermittent failure 63 - TPS circuit below min value 0.6v
KOER: 18 - SPOUT open or spark angle word failure 21 - ECT out of range (yes, i let it warm up before testing) 45 - Thermactor 2ndary air misdirected
I was recently doing some dizzy and timing work after pulling the dizzy to replace the thermostat and received the code 21 so it might still be a problem, but I'm not sure it has anything to do with the shifting problem.
Can anyone tell me if they have had this problem or if the codes I pulled could be causing the problem? I was reading it might be the cable to the tranny but I am not that savvy with AOD.
Do you still have a seat belt buckle (female) available? I am only in need of one, since my driver's side has lost its tension to hold it together...thanks in advance!
Thanks for the help with the dizzy and timing adjustments...I have got the car running decently well but I am still pulling codes...any ideas?
I have disconnected the battery to clear the codes and this is what I still get:
KOEO/CM: 22 - MAP/BP sensor out of self test range 51 - ECT sensor signal is greater than the S/T maximum of 4.6 volts 63 - TPS circuit has intermittently failed below minimum 0.6 volts. 34 - PFE or EVP circuit has intermittently failed above the closed limit of 0.67 volts.
KOER: 45 - Thermactor secondary air is misdirected 18 - SPOUT circuit open or spark angle word failure
I was having problems with an intermittant, almost rolling idle (between 600-1100rpm), but it has since started to disappear...
12: Cannot control RPM during ER Self-Test high RPM check. 21: ECT out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts. 22: MAP/BP sensor out of self test range. 42: No HEGO switching detected always rich (right side). 92: HEGO sensor circuit indicates system rich (left side). 18: SPOUT circuit open or spark angle word failure.