Distributor Install - LOST rotor location

Pulled codes!

Reply #15 – September 17, 2009, 04:28:22 PM

Here are the codes I pulled from a KOER:

12: Cannot control RPM during ER Self-Test high RPM check.
21: ECT out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts.
22: MAP/BP sensor out of self test range.
42: No HEGO switching detected always rich (right side).
92: HEGO sensor circuit indicates system rich (left side).
18: SPOUT circuit open or spark angle word failure.

Any ideas on whats up? Thanks in advance!

Distributor Install - LOST rotor location

Reply #16 – September 17, 2009, 07:43:55 PM

The 21 indicates you either didn't let the engine get warm enough before you ran the test, or, the ECT is DOA. If the latter, the engine will run poopy, and be extremely rich. Failed ECT will put the EEC in "Limp Mode". 42 and 92 mean the same thing, just for opposite sides of the engine. 18 seems to say you didn't put the spout connector back in, and the EEC could not detect spark advance based on where it was trying to set the timing. 22, dead MAP sensor? Not likely, but a large vacuum leak could cause that. Last, but not least, check the VOUT from the EEC. You're not getting an EVP or TPS error but that's a lot of errors. Clear them, and check again. To clear, start the test, and when it starts flashing the codes, just pull the jumper out of the DCL.

Make sure the engine is warm before you run the test. Otherwise, it'll throw a wad of codes at you that don't mean diddly.

Distributor Install - LOST rotor location

Reply #17 – September 18, 2009, 02:19:56 PM

You did put the SPOUT connector back in right?

Timing Light

Reply #18 – September 18, 2009, 02:25:46 PM

So, I went out and bought a timing light to test the timing but I'm having some problems...

...because the engine is idling rough, the mark I made on the balancer at 10 BTDC is bouncing around the timing line when I use the light...

Is this still related to timing, causing the engine to Chug along and run rich, or is there another problem that could be causing this

Just replaced plugs and checked wires, and still no improvement...any thoughts?

Distributor Install - LOST rotor location

Reply #19 – September 18, 2009, 10:03:49 PM

start over and reset the dizzy, your prob off one tooth on the cam.

you cant rotate the crank in any ole direction to fine tune because..... drum roll again please..........

>slop in the timing chain>

once you get on to your compression stroke by way of the natural spinning direction of the motor, and you went bast TDC on your pointer, you should rotate the crank by hand the opposite direction beyond the pointer. You then rotate in the correct direction to TDC on the pointer. with a lot of slop in the timing chain, you may have to play around with centering up the cam to crank so to speak.

If you were having trouble getting it to seat, your prob in bad timing with the chain and you need to factor this in the mix to insure your on the correct cam to dizzy tooth.

----------------------------------------------
here is a diy step by step , ignore steps you want, its your call.

Distributor check and reset

remove #1 plug
insert a decent wad of tissue paper tightly in the spark plug hole
quickly bump engine over until you hear the tissue paper pop out
you are now on compression stroke for number one cyl but not tdc
looking directly at the crank pully rotate the crank CW until pointer is on tdc
as you trun your crank, use a narrow screwdriver in the plug hole and touching the piston
as you rotate the crank, the screwdriver will rise as you hold it.
you will feel a flat area where nothing happens then it changes
go back to where you were and line back up to where the piston is tdc.
if the pass valve cover is off, both #1 rockers should be kinda loose
remove dizzy cap and rotor should be pointing directly at number 1 post
if its ahead or behind, you are off and dizzy needs reset.
**if its off by like a half inch or so, then dont pull the dizzy, just adjust by advance or retarding.
The proper or typical look of a dizzy is the rotor point at number one post and the TFI pointing towards
the drivers front corner. (this is just my opinion). After the dizzy is checked, you have room to advance either
direction.

RESET
remove 1/2 bolt,keeper at the base of dizzy
remove tfi plug
the dizzy will be tight to get out at first cause of the oring at the base
be careful if you do not know whos been in your motor before.
its possible the oil pump shaft may not have the keeper on
if it does not, the oil pump shaft may fall down into the timing cover/oil pan
if this happens, your screwed.
there is no way to tell if the little slip on keeper is installed or not.
you can only tell if the motor is opened up.
Gently rotate the dizzy back and forth while trying to lift it.
lube up the oring with grease at the base of the dizzy and the hole
when you get it out, guess / estimate your location/orientation of the rotor.
its a good idea to look at other engines as to how their dizzy sits
the orientation of the tfi is important for setting the timing later.
drop the dizzy and fully seat it.
check to see if it will be point to number 1 post
if it does, snug on the keep / bolt and use your timing light to adjust.
set timing to 10deg btdc or whatever you prefer.

**sometimes you may have to nudge the crank either cw or ccw a wee bit to get the hex shaped
oil pump shaft to mate up inside the dizzy shaft. this gets tricky and if you cant get the dizzy to seat,
you gotta keep tinkering with the crank either direction while trying to seat the dizzy.

Distributor Install - LOST rotor location

Reply #20 – September 18, 2009, 10:06:12 PM

i am puzzled by why you posted a pic of something that does not include the pointer. you have a pic of a secondary measurement point which happens to have a missing part:hick:

Distributor Install - LOST rotor location

Reply #21 – September 23, 2009, 08:20:26 PM

Problem solved...Had a missing vac line to the MAP that was messing it up...runs much better now