Also were you adding a panhard rod to your setup? I'm thinking about adding the Maximum Motorsports piece to my car next year.
I may install a panhard bar down the road, but it requires shortening the shock tower by 2" according to Jack Hidley (I'm currently using Chuck W shock mounts). I didn't do it this time around due to budget constraints. I also need to get upgraded sway bars at some point. What did you end up doing for subframe connectors?
Megasquirt eh? I'm curious as to how it will work out for you.
I'm looking forward to it. My car, like many other Fords of the same era, has had a history of hard-to-track-down engine control issues, so I wanted something that will help make those things go away/be easier to diagnose (I hate relying on ambiguous codes. Just show me what the engine is doing). It also doesn't require any hacking of the wiring harness, so it's easily reversible. Also, it opens the door for pretty much any normal engine modification without having to convert to MAF. The PNP ECU was expensive, but the multifaceted impact it will have should be well worth it. Expect many posts about the ECU once the suspension and brakes are sorted out; my dad and I will be tinkering with it quite a bit.
In other news, some more stuff arrived:
The fog lights I got turned out to be a perfect fit. Yes, they were NIB OEM, but not for a Tbird
New 11" rotor compared to the old 10" front rotor. Also looks like the front wheels will sit about half an inch further inward, which is great.
New Mustang caliper compared to the old Tbird caliper.
CHE does still make them as far as I know, both lowers and uppers for the rear. During my discussions with Jack Hidley about the suspension setup, I did inquire about the CHE control arms. The issue in a nutshell is that installing rear control arms with regular polyurethane bushings increases binding in the 4 link setup in our cars, which prevents it from properly adjusting to different amounts of ride height/roll angle/etc. The MM RLCAs have a specifically designed 3-piece bushing to account for this and it is recommended to instead leave the stock rear upper control arm and simply install new rubber bushings.
We finally finished tearing down the suspension this weekend and have the car pretty much ready to accept the new Maximum Motorsports suspension which should be arriving Thursday.
Ordered a set of Hawk HPS pads for the front and rear
I've also been finishing up other odds and ends, getting the other pieces to play with after the suspension and brakes are complete:
Things are coming along nicely. Next weekend, the gameplan is to get the shifter swapped out and do a fluid change on the transmission, then hopefully have time to start assembling the new suspension. The fun stuff is almost here! :)
As a FYI my set of rear control arms from Maximum Motorsports shipped today. I should get them by this coming Wednesday. Yours should be shipping soon I would assume.
Yeah I noticed my card got charged today and called them and they said the order will be shipping out today or tomorrow. There's also apparently the potential that this is the last set of control arms that they make for our cars :(
Hey guys, I was looking at getting a Mach 1 chin spoiler for the TC front bumper on my Tbird. I was wondering if there are any installation issues to look out for, if there's a specific spoiler I should purchase or any other concern I may not be thinking of.
Still have low peddle after bleeding the brakes. Is there a difference in a TC prop/valve and my stock valve?
Yes, the prop valves are different. The TC prop valve directs more fluid to the rear brakes. You can either get a factory TC prop valve (which is a simple swap out) or an aftermarket adjustable prop valve, which requires modifying your stock one. I opted for a factory TC prop valve.
