1985 3.8 engine Q's August 16, 2006, 12:50:19 AM Recently replaced: Water pump, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, timing chain, fuel filter. Not sure wether it was done at a shop or a "handyman"Exhaust rotted off after cat, battery cables corroded to hell, battery toast, 245K k/m, engine is a big ball of grease from leaking v/c.When its started up cold it will idle at 1500 rpm but occasionally it will fall to about 500, catch itself, then keep idling at 1500 rpm, when you rev it up it will rev fine but when you let off the gas it will almost stall (like someones cut spark) then once again catch itself and keep idling fine. I'm not sure wether it does this every time its reved, only had a quick look at it. Any ideas on what could be causing this? Its an auto if that matters.ThanksScott Quote Selected
1985 3.8 engine Q's Reply #2 – August 16, 2006, 01:28:24 AM Looks like tbi, I figured someone here would know for sure, i'm clueless with these computerised fox's :p Quote Selected
1985 3.8 engine Q's Reply #4 – August 16, 2006, 12:33:57 PM REBUILD THE ENGINE AND STICK A CARB ON THERE FAST!! BEFORE IT EXPLODES!! Lol. Seriously though that's what you're looking at unless you're grooming this thing for a demolition derby. Actually probably the best and cheapest thing is to grab a junkyard 302, stick a carb on it and plop it in. Just my 2 cents. Quote Selected
1985 3.8 engine Q's Reply #5 – August 16, 2006, 12:54:00 PM Okay maybe I'll be a little more constructive. My 302 used to drop it's idle like that too, it would suddenly while parked just drop down til it was just about dead silent and then somehow jerk itself up again. That was before the rebuild. And my engine was and is carbed so fuel injection may have nothing to do with it. My car had low oil pressure and from the sound of it I'd bet yours does too, what did help the overall condition of mine at the time was to change the oil for 20W50. DO NOT put in straight 30W, I tried that first and the pressure would be good for like 10 minutes until it heated up and then dropped to nearly zero. This may or may not help at all, but for the cost of a jug of Castrol 20W50 it may be worth a shot. Quote Selected
1985 3.8 engine Q's Reply #7 – August 16, 2006, 01:57:49 PM So, is it CFI or carb? I haven't a clue wrt Canadian cars. If it is CFI, pull the codes and get back to us. Quote Selected
1985 3.8 engine Q's Reply #8 – August 16, 2006, 09:33:07 PM Engine swapping or rebuilding isnt an option, low oil pressure is very possible seeing the state and mileage of the engine, The engine is FUEL INJECTED, which version of injection I dunno.The interior is near mint, the body is pretty good and the price is oh so right, would make a nice beater. Quote Selected
1985 3.8 engine Q's Reply #9 – August 17, 2006, 11:17:45 AM http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13WHAT R UR CODEZ!? Quote Selected
1985 3.8 engine Q's Reply #10 – August 18, 2006, 01:40:30 AM That site says 1986 and up?? ahh well i'll figure out tomorrow when I go get the thing. Quote Selected
1985 3.8 engine Q's Reply #11 – August 18, 2006, 10:37:53 AM It is also true for your '85. Your '85 CFI engine is the exact same as my '85 and '87 CFI T-bird 3.8L engines. Quote Selected
1985 3.8 engine Q's Reply #12 – August 18, 2006, 10:40:53 AM Quote from: JeremyBhttp://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13I always jumper the STI to the SIG-RTN rather than grounding STI.This is what the shop manual says to do.But I guess SIG-RTN winds up at ground back at the EEC.Has anybody ever tried using the continuity function of a digital meter as the output device?The OHM meter on my old Fluke will beep when you have continuity if it is in AC mode. I guess this is what they are talking about. Quote Selected
1985 3.8 engine Q's Reply #13 – August 18, 2006, 10:48:11 PM I'm getting 12, 23, 31... I think, was reading with my voltmeter.So the TPS and EGR are out of whack but wtf does code 12 mean?Also noticed the antifreze is a bit low which means hg's are probabally on there way out. Quote Selected
1985 3.8 engine Q's Reply #14 – August 19, 2006, 01:36:00 AM Quote from: tbirdscottI'm getting 12, 23, 31... I think, was reading with my voltmeter.So the TPS and EGR are out of whack but wtf does code 12 mean?Also noticed the antifreze is a bit low which means hg's are probabally on there way out.The low antifreeze could just be a slow leak in the heater core, I have the same problem right now. I only lose coolant when I leave the temp slider on hot (whether or not the unit is on). Before you go messing with head gaskets I'd see if you can find a stain in the carpet up under the dash. Quote Selected
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