1985 3.8 engine Q's

Reply #45 – October 27, 2006, 11:18:56 AM

Quote from: tbirdscott;109421

How do you remove them?

Remove the CFI assembly, then remove the (4-5?) screws on the bottom of the CFI assembly to release the top/bottom of the CFI piece. It is pretty straightforward/self-evident.

If you think you have clogged injector screens, I would send them off and have them cleaned professionally for $12-$25/injector.

Quote

so it doesnt really matter then? it will just feel like a standard? I hate the idea of a computer controlling my throttle anyway...

If you remove the IAC motor, you won't be idling unless you keep your foot on the gas at all times. It is a necessary component.

1985 3.8 engine Q's

Reply #46 – October 27, 2006, 11:51:22 AM

This engine has an ECT...you checked that yet?

1985 3.8 engine Q's

Reply #47 – October 29, 2006, 12:10:27 AM

If you are lucky,,,, VERY LUCKY<<<< you might be able to split the CFI in half so you cant remove the **lower injector retainer***

I did not re-install my lower retainer and dont bother asking how i keep the injectors in there,,, its really red neck to say the least but served well for several years.

removing the injector screen is simple. First observe the brass looking ring in the top of the injector. the brass ring transitions into a tear drop looking screen. Just find you a pointed tip screw that will start into the top of the injector and bites into the brass. Give the screw a good yank with pliers and out pops the screen. Go buy a new screens if you wanna and set them in the hole, turn the injector upside down and tap them on the work bench till the sceen is seated.

as for the idle control motor,, you can get away with not having an operational unit, the car will run, it just wont do the automatic high idle on start up to warm nor will it buffer the feel like you compared to a standard drive engine. It might stagger perhaps,, i cant recall since i got a few good back up ones. I do like this one do hicky i found on an old cfi. It had no Idle control motor. It had a spring loaded plunger that extended when you were on the gas. When you let off the gas, the linkage pressed on the plunger and it slowly retracted and lowers the idle. I would recon that the advent of the electronic controlled idle thingy only gained one advantage as it would increase your engine rpm upon startup to a specified rpm and then back off the idle for warm up purposes. with the old fashion type i described, i guess that option was absent so thats why the very first CFI ever had a choke pull off assembly. I believe these type of CFI systems were on the 82 or perhaps 83 V8's only.

in order for you to run without the idle control motor hooked up,, just loosen the adjustment lock screw which will be visible looking down on the mounting bracket. There is a spring in your way if you use a socket but i smoosh it to the side. with that loose, you can now adjust the long looking Bolt which brings the idle control motor plunger head up to the linkage. Just tweek it till you like the idle rpm you hear.
Im not trying to disagree with jeremyb,, im only suggesting what worked for me once upon a time.

Im still curious though,, you never really made it clear that you actually removed the CFI and the EGR base plate and removed carbon build up. You said you had to remove the CFI in order to replace the TPS,,,,,That in itself is plain nonsense and i cant for the life of me understand why. Perhaps you did not have a 14'' phillups screw driver. With that you can come in at the tps almost straight on with the screwdriver resting on the pass valve cover.

Im gonna post you a link i did up pointed directly to the type of motor you have and some of the digging / things ive done. It might be helpfull since i feel pretty certain your also not happy with all the different vac lines and what they do. You will be pleased to know that they are not all that complicated and can go away.

This link is pointed directly at the 3.8 v6,,,,,,http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=2984

As far as your fuel presure,,,,,,, you really need to check the fuel presure while driving,, its actually mentioned in the shop manual that you install the pres tester and tape the guage to the windshield while driving and observe the the presure while the tranny is in labor in between shifts.

So,,,,,, are you getting anywhere in troubleshooting,, are you getting it to run better?

1985 3.8 engine Q's

Reply #48 – October 29, 2006, 01:49:07 AM

Quote from: jcassity;110491

Im still curious though,, you never really made it clear that you actually removed the CFI and the EGR base plate and removed carbon build up. You said you had to remove the CFI in order to replace the TPS,,,,,That in itself is plain nonsense and i cant for the life of me understand why.

The carbon build up had all been cleaned out. I had to remove the cfi because the bracket that holds the fuel lines is in the way of the screws. The bracket is welded to I think a coolant pipe that runs down the intake so It couldnt be removed.

Car still runs as py as the day I bought it, I'm doing the clutch in my sprint right now but i'll see if I can work the stang in there a bit.

For now i've got some reading to do.

Chuck the temp sensors are in place and the wires are good, cant find any info on testing them.

Thanks
Scott

1985 3.8 engine Q's

Reply #49 – October 29, 2006, 01:09:44 AM

! thats everything I've been lookinmg for all in one!

Thanks jcassity

Scott

1985 3.8 engine Q's

Reply #50 – October 29, 2006, 10:14:21 AM

yep it is virgin under the hood,,,,,,, Delete that coolant pipe and the bracket that holds the fuel lines.
install a longer heater core hose in place of the pipe. That will open up the intake and the valve cover to get at things.

here is one sensor
Coolant Temp sensor (2wire)
about 55k ohms when engine is cold and outside weather is about 65deg
about 1.5k to 2k ohms when engine is hot.