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Topic: 306 swap in work (Read 11254 times) previous topic - next topic

306 swap in work

Reply #60
Quote from: jcassity
well isnt this just great,,, page 6 and this just gets brought up.



Recheck your PMs...

306 swap in work

Reply #61
does anyone know if there is a product that i can use to plug off the egr port on these heads.  I dont want exhaust heat to enter the intake anymore from the second E valve on each head so i was wondering how some of the guys in the race industry block off this port.  see the red arrow.

Im working out a couple issues on these heads, i have not worked on the car since i last posted due to working away.

maybe someone has an idea.  Ive been thinking of a thin stanless plate about .015'' thick.


306 swap in work

Reply #63
jb weld each port/hump in the exhaust, maybe? or buy some non-emission heads?
1979 Ford Fairmont
[/B]
5.0L/4R70W/8.8"/5-lug/3" Exhuast


306 swap in work

Reply #64
thats a purdy big port to fill with jb weld.  not too comfortable with that thought but thanks for the help.  I was hoping someone may know of a plug.

Anyone ever done this before? Blocking off the egr port in the heads?  i just learned about it.

306 swap in work

Reply #65
as long as it doesnt cause any clearance problems myself id do what you were thinking of--bolt a thin metal plate on there! just has to make a good seal, not like its holding back a ton of pressure right?
1987 20th Anniversary Cougar, 302 "5.0" GT-40 heads (F3ZE '93 Cobra) and TMoss Ported H.O. intake, H.O. camshaft
2.5" Duals, no cats, Flowmaster 40s, Richmond 3.73s w/ Trac-Lok, maxed out Baumann shift kit, 3000 RPM Dirty Dog non-lock TC
Aside from the Mustang crinkle headers, still looks like it's only 150 HP...
1988 Black XR7 Trick Flow top end, Tremec 3550
1988 Black XR7 Procharger P600B intercooled, Edelbrock Performer non-RPM heads, GT40 intake AOD, 13 PSI @5000 RPM. 93 octane

306 swap in work

Reply #66
Quote from: jcassity;110808
thats a purdy big port to fill with jb weld.  not too comfortable with that thought but thanks for the help.  I was hoping someone may know of a plug.

Anyone ever done this before? Blocking off the egr port in the heads?  i just learned about it.
i wasnt talking about the one in your pic. im talking about the small holes in each exhaust port on the valve side.
1979 Ford Fairmont
[/B]
5.0L/4R70W/8.8"/5-lug/3" Exhuast


306 swap in work

Reply #67
never  heard of a plug, but a thin plate should do the trick: As long as it seals off.

 

306 swap in work

Reply #68
C'mon Scott get your ass moving on this progect I'ts been an awfull long progect!

306 swap in work

Reply #69
What's the prob w/the heads?

306 swap in work

Reply #70
I think I have an article where they drill and tap out the egr ports, and thread in a recessed plug(female hex).  I don't have it in front of me though.  Also, FWIW, I have an aluminum intake with casting RF-E1AE-9425-FA, with built in egr.  It's a 2bbl, but is definitely a low rise.  An engine machine shop employee/friend gave it to me.  No idea what car it came from, but I'm guessing early 80's mustang or pinto.  Seem right?
1987 TC

306 swap in work

Reply #71
that would be an 81 mustang intake.  The HO did not arrive until 82.  your intake is prob the same exact one i have been screwing around with.

UPDATE on the project,, i pluged off the center port with a fabricated plug (sort ot) but anyway it works fine.  To be honest,,as expected i am having issues but tomorrow is my big day,, flight of the cougar will happen tomorrow evening after i get done job shopping on monster for the morning hours. These heads only have one egr port and it is only ported to the second exhaust valve on each head,,,,,very different from later heads since these are 41 years old.

Nick/Tom
im about ready to say you guys were right on the air flow, it seems to run best with my AFR turned way down to like 30 which is the min this regulator will go.  It also does not time worth a ,,, the marks are wayyyyyyyyyyy out of sight when i dial it in and it runs best.  However,, i do have perfect vac from what i see ,,(bout 12 psi at idle) and with steady trottle applied it staggers down and recovers to about 20psi within a second.  I cut my valve seats because it was evident whomever cut the initial ones did not cut enough , there was barely any valve angle cut at all on the heads.  From what i can gather, there was only a single angle valve job done which was the 46deg one so i complied with what was existing and cut away.  My results were very good, i came up with 190psi of compression with a bone cold motor and no wd40 added.

I noticed that the plugs were way foul and so i reduced my fuel to the min setting and discovered it wouild idle better and accept throttle response with the least amount of studder before it overcame perhaps the lack of air.  Ill hook up the exhaust tomorrow and find out exactly what kind of shape im in.  ive noticed from the previous test drives that i do stagger at mid throttle but something gives in and it starts to pull and it does not seem to stop pulling.  Its gotta be an air flow thing but i dont know for the life of me what to do about the timing thing.

I have a question though,,,,,, i noticed my valves are not magnetic,,, what does that mean as far as quality goes?

another favor,, can someone verify with me that a V6 CFI engine and dizzy wires up the EEC on the exact pins as a V8?
This would be a simple comparsion of the 85 V6 to the 85 V8.  I come up with each engine being wired up the eec on the same pins and it leads me to believe that the dizzy is the only thing telling the eec its an 8 vs a 6 cyl.
this is why i continue to use my V6 computer on the v8 i have now.
I keep looking over my shoulder at that other intake with the carb on it.

306 swap in work

Reply #72
Quote from: jcassity;114584
These heads only have one egr port and it is only ported to the second exhaust valve on each head,,,,,very different from later heads since these are 41 years old.

Thats the heat crossover(EGR was yet to come) to increase fuel vaporation in cold weather, with a carb you'd definatly want it open... There is gaskets intended for racing engines that have them blocked..

 
Quote from: jcassity;114584
but i dont know for the life of me what to do about the timing thing.

You sure you have the correct ballancer for the timing cover??? The '69-earlier 289/302s have the marks on the driver side while '70-up had them on the passenger side...
Quote from: jcassity;114584
I have a question though,,,,,, i noticed my valves are not magnetic,,, what does that mean as far as quality goes?

$hit I dunno... Maybe they are made of plastic??? I thought all valves were generally steel...

306 swap in work

Reply #73
Quote from: TurboCoupe50;114680



$hit I dunno... Maybe they are made of plastic??? I thought all valves were generally steel...


They're probably stainless.  Stainless can be both magnetic and non.  I'm trying to remember my Materials Eng class... 

Notes (couple of types of SS):
Martensitic: hard, strong, magnetic

Austenitic: Stabilized to room temp, non-magnetic, not hardenable, corrosion resistant.

There's gotta be something wrong with these notes.  I'll see if I can't find more.

306 swap in work

Reply #74
Tom
The engine block is an E0 casting and times on the pass side.  Im using a reman'd linc towncar dizzy new from the zone.  this timing thing is the reason i posted that pic of the "one tooth off" theory.

As for the valves,, they are not magnetic but what is even more screwy is the tip of the valve is magnetic where th roller rocker makes contact.  The rest of the valve from the keepers down are not magnetic.  I was thinking they must be stainless.

I got side tracked today with a job offer so i could not get to putting on my mustang shorties and my hooking up to the existing exhaust.  This exsiting exhaust is a temp thing till i get it running ok.  I love these new compression numbers though.

to be honest,, i dont think things are gonna work out like i thought they would but i cant say nobody told me so.


I hope someone has time to take a quick look and compare the cfi 5.0 to the cfi 3.8 to check if the
DIZZY    and      INJECTORS
connect up in the same on the eec ect.  This should not be too hard if someone has documentation.
I am having a terrible time locating a CFI 302 eec from bone yards for some odd reason.