Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring. Reply #15 – March 04, 2016, 04:01:01 PM Quote from: EricCoolCats;4541591985-88 Standard-to-buttstuffog Cluster Conversion Guide Thank you. Quote Selected
Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring. Reply #16 – March 04, 2016, 05:06:24 PM Very interesting. The base to turbo cluster conversion write-up replaces the alternator warning light with the ammeter.The alternator voltage regulator is "turned on" through the ammeter.The way this should work (if it works at all) is with the key on the meter should deflect (warning light on) when the engine and alternator are running, the meter goes back to center (warning light off).Or maybe it will just turn on the alternator without any deflection. Would like to know. Quote Selected
Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring. Reply #17 – March 04, 2016, 07:14:09 PM Quote from: softtouch;454161The way this should work (if it works at all) is with the key on the meter should deflect (warning light on) when the engine and alternator are running, the meter goes back to center (warning light off).Or maybe it will just turn on the alternator without any deflection. Would like to know.Assuming the magnet is any good, it should slam the gage to max when ign is turned on... A std 194 lamp pulls .24A and I know the alt trigger circuit(regulator) can handle a amp or more(whether it's happy at that much current is debatable)...There should be a parallel 500 ohm resistor in harness that excites the alt in lieu of a failed bulb... Quote Selected
Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring. Reply #18 – March 04, 2016, 07:59:49 PM Quote from: TurboCoupe50;454162There should be a parallel 500 ohm resistor in harness that excites the alt in lieu of a failed bulb...This was in the basic cluster with the bulb. Quote Selected
Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring. Reply #19 – March 05, 2016, 08:00:06 AM Quote from: softtouch;454163This was in the basic cluster with the bulb.You're correct, I'm used to seeing the resistor in the harness in the older stuff... Most I've ever done with a electronic cluster is repl bulbs in a std and toss a full digi in the trash... Quote Selected
Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring. Reply #20 – March 05, 2016, 02:00:30 PM Quote from: streetracer;454142I have 2 gray/yellow stripe. Basic harness (turbo shows one)The one from basic 11A goes to turbo 6 Yellow/ Light Green. The one from basic 12A goes to turbo 7 Black (shield not ground) and Grey/Yellow wires. THIS IS THE IVR POWER WIRE.Quote /green with red stripe and white with blue stripe and a green with light green connected with yellow green and a spare ground.The basic harness 10A, Light Green/Red goes to turbo harness 5, Red (EVTM shows Red/Orange).The Basic 16A, White/Light Blue wire(s) goes to turbo 14, White/Light Blue wires.The basic 13B, Green/Light Green goes to turbo 11, Green/Light Green.The turbo 6, Yellow/Light green goes to basic 11A Gray/Yellow as listed in the first paragraph.The basic 14B Black (ground) goes to turbo 12, Black (ground). IVR POWER WIRE:The turbo harness 7 Black wire that is paired with Gray/Yellow wire is a shield and not a ground. This is the IVR power wire. Don't know if the basic harness wire is shielded or not. The '86 EVTM doesn't show it. If this shield wire is what you are calling an extra ground, DON"T GROUND IT !!I have not been into this and don't know if the shield is just the black wire wrapped around the Gray/Yellow wire, or if it is a braided shield.If the basic harness also has it, you should hook the shield wires/braids together.I am guessing you working with the cut off stub of the turbo harness and splicing those wires to the basic harness wires.The write up lists the turbo harness wire colors. Most of the colors match but not all. Quote Selected
Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring. Reply #21 – March 05, 2016, 04:49:24 PM The EVTM wiring colors are not necessarily what's in the cars; a lot of them are just not correct. I created the guide based off the colors of wires that are actually in the car.Regardless, it's the wiring position that matters more than the wiring color itself, when it comes to swapping the wires out. Quote Selected
Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring. Reply #22 – March 05, 2016, 07:08:34 PM Quote from: EricCoolCats;454174The EVTM wiring colors are not necessarily what's in the cars; a lot of them are just not correct. I created the guide based off the colors of wires that are actually in the car.Regardless, it's the wiring position that matters more than the wiring color itself, when it comes to swapping the wires out.Yes, I can see where using the wire connector positions is the way to use the chart.Is there enough current draw through the ammeter to cause it to move with this setup? Quote Selected
Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring. Reply #23 – March 06, 2016, 02:28:19 PM I'm watching this. I'll look at something I have and try an see if I can help. I f i can find the info. Quote Selected
Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring. Reply #24 – March 07, 2016, 01:55:27 PM Take a look at this cluster buildhttp://jr.rustecat.com/articles/cluster/index.php Quote Selected
Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring. Reply #25 – March 07, 2016, 02:10:19 PM Here's what the ammeter for a '88 cluster reads with load of 906 bulb at 14v.. Yeah it's a bit hard to read but left meter at mid scale would be 1A, so it's approx .75A, bulb is rated .69A at 13.5v... As I've already stated the regulator light circuit can suppl a amp or more but without any current limiting, the gauge can far exceed that... Will be similar to totally shorting out the bulb... Without the bulb, my power supply instantly tripped the 2A overload at approc ¼ volt...Admittedly it takes a bit more current than I originally suspected for full deflection but that only means it's more likely to overload the regulator in alternator... With a limit resistor or bulb in series it will work to show discharge but never show charge... When charging the circuit is turned off so no current flows...So how do I know this? I rewired my Comet so I can use a internal regulator alternator and still operate the charge light... Originally the mechanical regulator required a 15 ohm parallel resistor to excite circuit, basically I cut it loose and installed a 470 ohm in series with 15(or in other words it now has 485 ohms in parallel with bulb)... Quote Selected
Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring. Reply #26 – March 07, 2016, 05:08:58 PM Quote from: TurboCoupe50;454194Here's what the ammeter for a '88 cluster reads with load of 906 bulb at 14v.. Yeah it's a bit hard to read but left meter at mid scale would be 1A, so it's approx .75A, bulb is rated .69A at 13.5v... As I've already stated the regulator light circuit can suppl a amp or more but without any current limiting, the gauge can far exceed that... Will be similar to totally shorting out the bulb... Without the bulb, my power supply instantly tripped the 2A overload at approc ¼ volt...Admittedly it takes a bit more current than I originally suspected for full deflection but that only means it's more likely to overload the regulator in alternator... With a limit resistor or bulb in series it will work to show discharge but never show charge... When charging the circuit is turned off so no current flows...So how do I know this? I rewired my Comet so I can use a internal regulator alternator and still operate the charge light... Originally the mechanical regulator required a 15 ohm parallel resistor to excite circuit, basically I cut it loose and installed a 470 ohm in series with 15(or in other words it now has 485 ohms in parallel with bulb)... Interesting stuff. Can you measure the resistance of the ammeter? In the EVTM the only load between the alternator and the battery is the battery (when charging). They put it in parallel with a length of wire. So, if I remember correctly, the ratio of the wire resistance to the meter resistance determines what percent of the current takes each path through the circuit. Quote Selected
Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring. Reply #27 – March 07, 2016, 07:41:09 PM Yeah I did measure it, .1 ohm & here's a pict I shot showing approx size & amount of wire... Quote Selected
Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring. Reply #28 – March 07, 2016, 10:52:38 PM I've checked and double checked all the wires I've even tried to put the green and red wire to the yellow gray and yellow nothing works the alternator won't turn on I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong I test the alternator on a partsshop it works fine I will recheck everything in the morning and let you guys know thanks for everything Quote Selected
Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring. Reply #29 – March 08, 2016, 02:32:59 AM The ammeter could be shot in the cluster. If no voltage goes through it you won't have the needed 12 volts to turn the alt on, if I am understanding the diagrams correctly. Quote Selected
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