Skip to main content
Topic: TC nose on sport and 5.0 temp needle high (Read 5463 times) previous topic - next topic

TC nose on sport and 5.0 temp needle high

1988 sport with 5.0 ~fairly fresh 5k mile engine, 20 over with gt/explorer lower / upper parts , SD EEC with 19lb stock injectors
swapped on tc hood, header and bumper cover this past winter.
oil being used is 5w30
coolant is the correct mix
bumper cover has perfect air dam with a perfectly intact black plastic air deflector (whatever its called)
Tstat is U/K temp rating
Radiator is stock type , not new but was flow and works fine
AOD transmission
Fan Clutch is new
We omitted the Efan setup the car had when we puchased from the member "PRIVATEER"


The issue~ temp needle is touching the "N" part of the normal which on this cluster is just below redline.

what are the proper combos of pieces parts to avoid this issue now that summer is here?
would getting the transmission fluids into thier own isolated core solve this temp delta?
would a higher temp tstat solve this?
would adding a metal angled air deflector in the interior base of the bumper cover directing air upward help?
would using the hood scoops help this? we currently have all the 2.3ducting parts still on the interior of the hood.

thoughts?

TC nose on sport and 5.0 temp needle high

Reply #1
You say you eliminated the electric fan, and went to a clutch fan. Did you install the fan shroud too?
CoogarXR : 1985 Cougar XR-7

TC nose on sport and 5.0 temp needle high

Reply #2
yes, fan shroud installed\
my son is only in for a few days so i want to solve this issue this week.

TC nose on sport and 5.0 temp needle high

Reply #3
Stock 2 row radiator?  You can upgrade to a 3 core stock style a la Mark VII.  I picked up mine at Pep Boys.  Made by Visteon who happens to be the OEM supplier of radiators when these cars were being built. 

Quote
Tstat is U/K temp rating
I honestly have no idea what this correlates to in degrees Fahrenheit.  If it's 180 Deg. then leave it or even go colder.

Quote
Fan Clutch is new
Thermal or non thermal?  What about the fan itself?  7 blade or 9 blade from a Mustang?

A dedicated transmission cooler will help.  You can run it in conjunction with the stock cooler on the radiator or completely separate.  There are a couple of schools of thought on which way is better. 

I have a TC hood as well and I've always had the scoops open.  Just make sure you have the rubber distributor boot installed.  It's never been an issue. 

I've never actually taken a close look at the stock electric fan setup in an 87-88 TC.  Perhaps the fan shroud is set up in a way that helps move air from underneath.  There are other guys who've run that nose with a 5.0.  I'm curious as to what they do to cool off their rides....

Before we go nuts though, have you verified the temp by any other means besides the gauge?

Last, but not least.... No air in the coolant system trapped is there?  Every time I do a drain and flush I get air....  Usually have to drive it a bit, let it cool down, and then top off after it's worked it's way out to the overflow tank.... This was true with my stock radiator as well.
-- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !!
--87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's!

TC nose on sport and 5.0 temp needle high

Reply #4
7 blade fan
stock 2 row radiator
Thermal clutch stock type (considered taking out one bolt, adding a long bolt to crush the clutch and thus making it solid)

the temp reference i made was that i did not know what temp rating the tstat was.  I was thinking adding  a hotter tstat would keep the coolant in the radiator longer and make the inbound fluid lower temp when the tstat opens... maybe im bassakwards on this.

TC nose on sport and 5.0 temp needle high

Reply #5
adding a higher temp tstat would only make it so that the water temp has to get higher before the tstat opens to allow the coolant to flow. Has no effect after that point. It's made so that your engine has a minimum desired operating temperature, but has little to do with the max temp. Max temp has more to do with radiator style, cap pressure ratings, and airflow. Also as for the gauge reading that high, that is where mine reads after I swapped from the base cluster to the full buttstuffog. It may just be your gauge. As long as it doesn't go up to the redline I don't think it would be a problem. On another note, fwiw, after I ditched my engine fan for an e-fan way back when, my readings on the gauge did go down a bit. It may be a better choice therefore, to go back to the e-fan setup. If nothing else, a 9 blade fan may be in your future. As far as locking down the fan clutch, I believe it was designed so that the speed at idle would be the same as if it was bolted solid, therefore it won't increase the speed it runs at idle, only that it will spin faster when cruising/accelerating. Just remember (and I speak this from experience) that thing will get LOUD at high rpms, (your TC will sound like a semi), and DON'T stick your hand anywhere near it when its running ;)
--Steve
[thread=28690]1988 Cougar V6[/thread]
2012 F-150 3.7L
2011 Mustang 3.7L

TC nose on sport and 5.0 temp needle high

Reply #6
There should be some rubber flaps along the each side of the radiator tanks, attached to the core support, "sealing" the air flow from going around the core instead of passing through it.  The ones on my 88 had deteriorated and fallen off.

TC nose on sport and 5.0 temp needle high

Reply #7
yeah, we do have the flaps,, down on each side of the radiator.

i think i have a guage i can put in place of the sensor to see what it says, illiminating the cluster telling us a lie or not.

in my diy link i have a resistance value i should be able to read from the intake to the top terminal of the sensor,,,, gotta look that up because i forgot.

TC nose on sport and 5.0 temp needle high

Reply #8
One thing I discovered from racing a late model stock car, was that running a higher pressure radiator cap actually made the car run cooler. We didn't run a thermostat, just a flow restrictor in the intake water line. We had an overheating problem in the 351 Windsor we were running, and I believe we switched to a 32-40 lb cap and the overheating disappeared.

TC nose on sport and 5.0 temp needle high

Reply #9
The stock gauges are famous for not being accurate, so until you install an aftermarket gauge to get an accurate reading you may be chasing ghosts.
...and there was light!

TC nose on sport and 5.0 temp needle high

Reply #10
I highly agree with gauges sucking. My oil pressure gauge would read just below the n on normal. Hooked up a manual gauge cause i was nervous. 32 psi hot at an idle. Changed sender with new and still read low. the gauge is just lazy in my case.

TC nose on sport and 5.0 temp needle high

Reply #11
Guys, these cars we all love are getting old.  In turn there gauges are getting old too.  Id put a laser thermometer on it and know for sure what the temp is. 

Why ditch the electric fans??
Love Foxes, Birds or Stangs.

TC nose on sport and 5.0 temp needle high

Reply #12
Mine ran hot before the tc nose swap. after the new $89 mustang aluminium single core radiator, no more problems. i also didn't have any air dam or the plastic bits to deflect air or anything.

i have a picture of my guages running high in an irv thread somewhere. i was sure i was overheating until i noticed the gas guage was reading full too.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

TC nose on sport and 5.0 temp needle high

Reply #13
Quote from: T-BirdX3;433656
The stock gauges are famous for not being accurate, so until you install an aftermarket gauge to get an accurate reading you may be chasing ghosts.

There you go, in a nut shell they've sucked from day 1, mine was all over the place with the half motor as well as 5.0... I finally installed aftermarket and with 195 T-stat temp generally ran under 200* on the highway(which is fine)... Idling with AC on it would creep upward till I shut off AC at around 230*... This was with stock two core radiator and the clutch fan...

TC nose on sport and 5.0 temp needle high

Reply #14
Mach 1 Chin spoiler.  Stylish AND functional.  I say get more air across that rad, Either by scooping more up from underneath, or by swapping in an electric fan (I'm still running that 2-speed I built and it's awesome).  Preferably both.  Another thought: if you've got a TC hood, I've always wanted to get one and relocate my trans cooler to the hood port with it's own dedicated fan.