Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: SOOOO bloody close.... (Read 3432 times) previous topic - next topic

SOOOO bloody close....

Nothing can go pop right in with this car. I swear... I need to get a hold of Jangus to see if he can make me a spacer to prop up my turbo so it wont be laying on the pipe...
1987 turbo coupe 5speed: Boport stage 3 head/2.5 cam , Precision stage 3 50trim .63 turbo, Tial 38mm wastegate, Jangus gutted/ported intake manifolds, 60mm tb, Jangus open dumptube, Jangus 3" elbow, Perrin boost controller,Esslinger adjustable cam pulley, Esslinger small crank pulley, stinger FMI, RFL BOV, Spec stage 3 clutch, B&M short throw, 140 speedo, Walbo 255lph, BBK fpr, 3G alternator, ARP studs.  Be faster... :poke:

SOOOO bloody close....

Reply #1 –
1987 turbo coupe 5speed: Boport stage 3 head/2.5 cam , Precision stage 3 50trim .63 turbo, Tial 38mm wastegate, Jangus gutted/ported intake manifolds, 60mm tb, Jangus open dumptube, Jangus 3" elbow, Perrin boost controller,Esslinger adjustable cam pulley, Esslinger small crank pulley, stinger FMI, RFL BOV, Spec stage 3 clutch, B&M short throw, 140 speedo, Walbo 255lph, BBK fpr, 3G alternator, ARP studs.  Be faster... :poke:

SOOOO bloody close....

Reply #2 –
Can the pipe be bent forward just slightly.....and carefully?
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

SOOOO bloody close....

Reply #3 –
I tried that but it wont move enough to let the turbo slide down. I almost took my blow touch to the pipe to heat it up but I realized that was a bad idea. I wish I could cut but I dont know if it would be easy to find another to bend to make it work...
1987 turbo coupe 5speed: Boport stage 3 head/2.5 cam , Precision stage 3 50trim .63 turbo, Tial 38mm wastegate, Jangus gutted/ported intake manifolds, 60mm tb, Jangus open dumptube, Jangus 3" elbow, Perrin boost controller,Esslinger adjustable cam pulley, Esslinger small crank pulley, stinger FMI, RFL BOV, Spec stage 3 clutch, B&M short throw, 140 speedo, Walbo 255lph, BBK fpr, 3G alternator, ARP studs.  Be faster... :poke:

SOOOO bloody close....

Reply #4 –
Nothing ever gos right I sware ...... I thought it was just me lol

SOOOO bloody close....

Reply #5 –
What is the pipe to.?
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]:ford:87 Turbo Coupe through the floor sub frame connectors, 5.8 swap Ford racing heads Harland sharp 1.6 rockers BBK shorty swap headers 2 1/2 BBk X pipe magnaflow ler's. Megasquirt 2 with 36lbs injectors on hurricane intake with 4150 throttle body.Tremec TKO 600 Quicktime blowsheild spec stage 3 clutch. 3.73 gears and still not done

SOOOO bloody close....

Reply #6 –
Aaron, does your AC work? If not, and  you don't plan on making it functional again, just remove the AC equipment. If the AC does work, I can certainly make a spacer, but you  need ensure  you have the hood clearance.
88 TC 5speed, 168000+ miles, stock 2.3T long block, ported RFE6 exhaust, Evergreen T3 running 15#'s.
Up next: FMIC, fresh air intake, ported intakes, ported big valve head.

SOOOO bloody close....

Reply #7 –
If that's an a/c line, it should be aluminum, and I'd think it could SLOWLY be bent forward to clear.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

SOOOO bloody close....

Reply #8 –
Quote
SR71blackbird


I tried that but it wont move enough to let the turbo slide down. I almost took my blow touch to the pipe to heat it up but I realized that was a bad idea. I wish I could cut but I dont know if it would be easy to find another to bend to make it work...


Don't heat it. One hazard of R-12 (or any refrigerant) is the health risk should leakage of the vapor come into contact with an open flame (about 1022°F) and be  decomposed  into the toxic gas phosgene.

Those alum lines are tough. You may have better luck removing the line to bend it. Lay it over a large diameter pipe or something to help keep from putting a kink in it.  If that doesn't work there are places out there that could build a custom a/c line, if that would be easier than making a spacer for the turbo.

SOOOO bloody close....

Reply #9 –
Ac line

Put a wratchet strap on it and crank it lol

SOOOO bloody close....

Reply #10 –
I've bent a few on my cougarbirds. its hard to get just enough tension to bend them without breaking them at the couplers.

Id mod the a/c line over the turbo. take it into a hose and rubber shop. its surprisingly cheap.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

SOOOO bloody close....

Reply #11 –
I had to have a hose made for my car with a holset on it.  The inlet to the turbo was right in line with that line.  Makes me wish I had just cut and welded it at this point since I had a heck of a time getting it sealed.  Kept cracking the line with the compression fitting.  The thing I've noticed with these lines is that the 86 down lines are steel and 87/88 are aluminum.

88 t-bird tc - 14.97 @ 90  IHI 18 psi + k+n filter...so far - NOW HX-35 @25psi - 12.75@112    348rwhp/395rwtq
78 F-150 - 11.61@120 on 175shot N20 - 12.55@110 on motor - 5200# race weight:hick:

SOOOO bloody close....

Reply #12 –
Jangus, I haven't had my A/C built on in a few years but I was hoping to get my A/C running this year.
So is there a tool out there that will let me just disconnect the aluminum tubing from the A/C unit? So would cutting the piece be bad?
Other wise I'll find a costume place and find a used one I can bend and put in there.
1987 turbo coupe 5speed: Boport stage 3 head/2.5 cam , Precision stage 3 50trim .63 turbo, Tial 38mm wastegate, Jangus gutted/ported intake manifolds, 60mm tb, Jangus open dumptube, Jangus 3" elbow, Perrin boost controller,Esslinger adjustable cam pulley, Esslinger small crank pulley, stinger FMI, RFL BOV, Spec stage 3 clutch, B&M short throw, 140 speedo, Walbo 255lph, BBK fpr, 3G alternator, ARP studs.  Be faster... :poke:

SOOOO bloody close....

Reply #13 –
I had two a/c lines custom made. They were $43.00 for both. Not a bad deal. Go have one made just how you need it.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..
 

SOOOO bloody close....

Reply #14 –
Aaron, they have tools to allow you to undo the garter spring fittings on the lines. Should be available at all the "finer" parts stores. Or as others have pointed out, this may be the best time to have one or two custom tailored to the car.
88 TC 5speed, 168000+ miles, stock 2.3T long block, ported RFE6 exhaust, Evergreen T3 running 15#'s.
Up next: FMIC, fresh air intake, ported intakes, ported big valve head.