Purchased Newer Truck Reply #15 – March 06, 2014, 01:09:10 AM You can pull the heads without pulling the motor. I did this on a 2000ish f1505.4 and a 2005ish v-10 f-250. For the v-10, they say you have to remove the cab. Quote Selected
Purchased Newer Truck Reply #17 – March 06, 2014, 03:25:42 PM Quote from: Kitz Kat;430087Needs to go higher!Love the 92-96 F-series trucks!! Nice! I would love to find a crew cab/short bed 3/4 ton with a 460 to cruise around in. Quote Selected
Purchased Newer Truck Reply #18 – March 06, 2014, 05:03:10 PM Quote from: TOM Renzo;430122What is a bitch is the blown head gaskets on the 6.0. They are a bitch and cost plenty to fix. The 6.0 is the worst diesel engine i have ever worked on bar none. Other than the olds car diesel conversionI'm no fan of the 6.0, but the GM 6.5 Turbodiesel would give it a run for its money -wise Quote Selected
Purchased Newer Truck Reply #19 – March 06, 2014, 07:28:34 PM In my 6.0 the EGR cooler went bad at about 100K so I just went ahead and had the Bulletproof EGR cooler installed, new oil cooler, head gaskets, ARP head studs etc. At least that area shouldn't give me a problem any more. Quote Selected
Purchased Newer Truck Reply #21 – March 08, 2014, 12:22:45 AM Thanks for the tips, going to start on the plug changing soon, my friend as the tool to get out if they brake off, I hope not. I was going to run the BG stuff and hope it helps clean carbon off some. I heard to change them while the motor is warm.Quote from: 50RACER;430113I have an 05 F150 4x4 with 5.4 and 220k miles, so I can tell you all the things to watch for. The plug change thing is correct. The sooner you get rid of the motorcraft plugs the better, and replace them with the Champion. Put some of the Seafoam treatment in the tank and run it for about 2 weeks. That will loosen the carbon buildup on the plugs that makes them get stuck and want to brake because of their design. The Champion design eliminates that possibility. I was not aware of the problem until my truck had 90K on it, and my mechanic, fully aware of the proceedures and equipped with the proper tools, broke one of in the head. Had to pull the motor to get the head off to get the plug out. $2500 later? The next thing is to always use the motorcraft 5w20 synthetic blend oil and the Motorcraft oil filter. This is necessary to protect the variable cam timing apparatus. These motors oiling system is very sensitive and it needs the proper oil to keep this system working correctly. Very small oiling holes in the system can easily become clogged and damage the system. Mine made it to 180k and one of the tensioners broke and a solenoid went bad. Since you have to pull the front cover off to get these, I had the mechanic go ahead and replace both sides. If it goes bad, you will hear a lot of rattling at startup that gets progressively worse. There is a ton of info on the web about both issues. Man, I got this one and a 2006 6.0 diesel. Don't even get me started about the EGR Cooler! Oy Vey!!! Quote Selected
Purchased Newer Truck Reply #22 – March 10, 2014, 10:23:43 AM Nice lookin' truck. I bought an '05 4x4 Crew last fall. It had about 110K at the time, and of course I did not find out about the spark plug design issue until afterwards. Now it is about 120K and I still haven't done anything. I've just been putting it off because I'm skittish about doing it myself and I'm afraid of how much it will end up costing me at the shop. Only gonna get worse, though!Aside from the 14MPG average, I'm enjoying the truck a lot. I've only had three partial issues. One is a loud squeal a few seconds after startup on very cold mornings. I was trying to read up about it on some forums, but I wasn't convinced that most of the posters knew what they were talking about. I think people were just pulling stuff out of the air. I put on a new belt already, so that wasn't it. One theory seems to be that they just do this and it is caused by the PS pump taking a few seconds to get lubed up. For now I'm letting that one ride. It has only done it a handful of times.I do wonder if I might be developing the issue that 50RACER describes, because the engine does clatter more than I would have expected. I had the shop take a listen when I got the tires rotated a couple months back, but they didn't think anything of it. But it was a non-dealer shop, so they might not be aware of this specific issue. The only other thing is an occasional exhaust smell through the vents when stopped at a light or idling. This also seems to be a common problem, but usually it is caused by loose plugs after a tune-up. Since I still have original plugs, I doubt that is it.Anyhow, enjoy the new ride! Quote Selected
Purchased Newer Truck Reply #23 – March 10, 2014, 06:03:43 PM Good luck. I'll second the notion that the plugs should be changed as soon as possible, however, I've personally spoken with the engineer who designed the heads and VCT system, and HE says his system lives better with 5w30. There are a few reasons why, but I don't want to bore anybody. Ford runs 5w20 for emissions, NOT longevity of the engine. For this reason, I'm going to recommend a good name-brand filter with a silicone drain-back valve (like Motorcraft) and a semi-synthetic 5w30 (like Motorcraft) from a brand with a good reputation. Have somebody with brains and a hoist look over that lift before you just decide to keep it. If you don't know where it came from and who put it in, you can't very well vouch for the workmanship, and that's really what would be the deciding factor for me. I've seen some really Billy-Bob'd lift kits, and it damages my personal valuation of humanity. Quote Selected
Purchased Newer Truck Reply #24 – March 30, 2014, 06:04:07 PM We purchased a 04 F150 crewcab with 140,000 miles in November 2013. I replaced the plugs on black friday. The first 7 plugs broke. I used the lisle plug remover tool. I read the ford mechanics like it better than the tool ford came out with. I replaced with E3's because I don't use champion in anything and these are 1 piece plugs as champion is. E3 use a 5/8" socket instead of the 9/16" like the motorcraft plugs. About a month ago I replaced the cam phasers, timing chains, guides, & tensioners because it sounded like a diesel at idle along with a couple codes having to do with over advanced timing. I have done a lot of reading here http://www.f150forum.com/Here is a picture of ours: Quote Selected
Purchased Newer Truck Reply #25 – March 31, 2014, 01:41:47 AM Seeing all you put pictures of ur trucks made me wanna put mine on so here it is 2001 f150 off road package. 4 inch rough country lift with 35s. I've got the 5.4 in mine like u guys have and mines runnen awesome and right now I've pulled a few cars with it and it pulls like its a full 1 ton. Quote Selected
Purchased Newer Truck Reply #26 – June 18, 2014, 06:07:24 PM Ok, I prepared for the spark plug change, and after pulling the first two out, (just as easy as the 351w in T-bird), I noticed dialectic grease on the boots, and the plugs looked really good. So I pulled all 8 and the same thing, looked really good, so I sprayed them off with carb cleaner and the little bit of carbon wiped right off. I put some anti-seize back on the sleeve part only and put back in the truck. I was not changing because I had and issue just because I knew the 100,000 is the limit, however someone else was pro-active and just changed them and put motorcrafts back in. And I changed the rear seal of the transfer case with a ford part replacement from dealer, so far so good. And I had the tool just in case one broke also.Thanks for the suggestion for the plug change Quote Selected
Purchased Newer Truck Reply #27 – June 21, 2014, 01:46:45 PM I wish someone would have been proactive with ours. The previous owner of yours may have taken good care of your truck for maintenance. Quote Selected
Purchased Newer Truck Reply #28 – June 21, 2014, 06:02:38 PM The plugs are SS from the factory and should not have Anti Seize compound on the threads or the above non threaded area. Ford never coated the plugs from the factory. The only time we use the stuff is on the old black finish plugs from the past and very far and in between use at all. Normally we chase the threads and install dry. Using Anti Seize on any plug with a coating or SS is asking for trouble. Just saying. Ford recommends dry plug instillation on the threads. And nickle compound on the sleeve area. But with aftermarket plugs they have to be completely dry. There is a TSB on it as well We never use Motorcraft 2 piece plugs once they are replaced we use an aftermarket redesigned one piece plug . have a good weekend guys Quote Selected
Purchased Newer Truck Reply #29 – June 22, 2014, 07:52:11 AM Quote from: TOM Renzo;435046There is a TSB on it as well We never use Motorcraft 2 piece plugs once they are replaced we use an aftermarket redesigned one piece plug . have a good weekend guysTHIS. Never put stock replacement plugs back in a 3 valve mod motor. Ever. You won't be able to keep dodging that bullet. Quote Selected
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