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Anti Slosh Module?

Does anyone know where the anti slosh module is on our cars?  On Fox Stangs, it's on the back of the instrument cluster.  I checked a spare T Bird cluster I have and don't see one.  :(
William

Anti Slosh Module?

Reply #1
Man... you lost me on that one.  Never heard of anything like that.
Mike

Anti Slosh Module?

Reply #2
Hey Mike,

Don't feel bad.  A lot of guys don't know what an anti slosh module is.  When you're going down the road and hit the brakes, or accelerate hard, the fuel in your tank obviously sloshes around.  To prevent your gas gauge from fluctuating when the fuel sloshes, Engineers designed a device for your car that's called an anti slosh module.  This module takes the average fuel level over a wide period of time and uses that information to determine what your real fuel level is.  When this module goes bad, your gauge will start to fluctuate and reflect your fuel's sloshing action, or your gauge will read empty all the time.

When fuel gauges in out cars read incorrectly, it's most commonly a bad sender.  Your anti slosh module is the 2nd most likely culprit.
William

Anti Slosh Module?

Reply #3
Very cool, thank you.
Mike

Anti Slosh Module?

Reply #4
I thought thats why our tanks have a baffle in it by the sender
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***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
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5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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Anti Slosh Module?

Reply #5
The baffle helps, but not enough by itself.  A lot of tanks have baffles AND anti slosh modules though.
William

Anti Slosh Module?

Reply #6
I must need one when i stay on the go pedal to long the needle on the gas gauge goes down. That explains alot
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Anti Slosh Module?

Reply #7
the integrated 5v voltage regulator wouild act as that and supervise slosh.

the needles delay very strong to quick changes due to the design.

never heard of it on our cars.

never ran across it in the shop manuals either.

like more info on this ,, no one has ever mentioned this module before and so it seems reasonable that there is room for pause on our parts.

Anti Slosh Module?

Reply #8
I would think that the heated bi-metallic strip design of the small gauges in these cars would act as a de-facto anti-slosh module. Because the needle moves by heating a coil wrapped around a bi-metallic strip the needle is slow to react...
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Anti Slosh Module?

Reply #9
I must say I have never heard of these before. I wonder if my 77 F150 has one, because when I floor it the gas gauge drops pretty fast then bounces back up when I let off.
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Anti Slosh Module?

Reply #10
Quote from: Thunder Chicken;399884
I would think that the heated bi-metallic strip design of the small gauges in these cars would act as a de-facto anti-slosh module. Because the needle moves by heating a coil wrapped around a bi-metallic strip the needle is slow to react...


Agreed, the '87-up Stang uses a real "meter" type movement that is very sensitive to changes in input... My Lightning apparently used same without a slosh module, it's gauge bounced around when it had less than 1/2 tank and would react immediately when switching tanks...

Anti Slosh Module?

Reply #11
I wondered why I could find an anti slosh module on my car.  I figured that our cars would have them since Fox Stangs do.  It's hood to know our cars don't have them.  I dropped the gas tank today and removed the fuel level sender.  With my Fluke meter, I measured the resistance at the #4 pin on the plug that connects to the instrument cluster.  When I put the fuel level sender's arm all the way down to simulate an empty fuel tank, the Fluke was reading 16 ohms of resistance at the #4 terminal.  That's what the resistance should have been.  When I raised the fuel level sender's arm all the way to simulate a full tank of fuel, the Fluke measured 160 ohms at pin #4.    That too is the correct amount of resistance the fuel gauge should be seeing to display a full tank. 

For some reason, my gauge reads empty even with a full tank.  This is the second fuel gauge I've tried.  The last one read empty all the time too.  This is pretty strange.
William

Anti Slosh Module?

Reply #12
now wait a minute,,,,

do you have a full digital dash or what?
sounds like you have a full digital cluster fuel level sender.

since your speaking in terms of guages, that resistance reading your calling out isnt right for guages at all. 
you would read empty with a full tank if you had the wrong sender,,, and the RARE ONE to come across to i might add.

Anti Slosh Module?

Reply #13
You know what, you just solved my problem for me.  Thank you!  I hooked up the cluster (it's a full buttstuffog cluster) and moved the fuel level sender's arm all the way down to simulate an empty tank and my gauge went up to read 7/8 full tank.  I then moved the sender's arm all the way up to simulate a full tank and the gauge read empty.  Since Fox Stangs have buttstuffog fuel gauges, I mistakenly though a fuel level sender made to woe on a Fox Stang would work on my TC.  I just found out that our cars have bimetallic gauges and that Fox Stsngs have totally different gauges.

Now that I know I need a sender that's made to work on our cars, would you recommend Rock Auto?  Thanks again for helping me out!
William

Anti Slosh Module?

Reply #14
I don't know of any place that has an exact replacement fuel sender for our cars.. someone may have one though.
I know Tom has reworked an aftermarket sender
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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