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Topic: I'm stumped! (Read 2141 times) previous topic - next topic

I'm stumped!

I replace the intake manifold gasket, plugs, cleaned the injectors, new distributor and put on new hoses. I was seeing water leak out of my mass air sensor, so I put a new gasket on it. The car starts right up, but still runs rough and white smoke is coming out the exhaust. How would I know if I'm still getting water in my intake? Thanks!

I'm stumped!

Reply #1
If the intake manifold gasket slips during installation, you can see coolant (water) in the oil and it could also leak into the combustion chamber, which would be the reason for the white smoke. If this is a 5.0 liter, you can use a section (about 2 1/2") of 7/16 allthread on all four corners as locating dowels which will not only help you get the manifold aligned properly, but will also greatly reduce the possibility of gasket slippage during installation.  I just bought some allthread at my local hardware store for this very reason and paid $1.23 for 24" of it.  Then al, you need is a hacksaw and either a bench grinder or  metal file to clean up the cut ends.  I hope that this helps and good luck!

I'm stumped!

Reply #2
When I bought the gasket, the guy who sold it to me suggested that I put a little rtv on the portion of the gasket that goes around the coolant ports. Maybe that wasn't a good idea, or maybe I put a little more that I should have(??).

I'm stumped!

Reply #3
Water in your mass airflow sensor? That'd be a first for me. What engine do you have (no factory 83-88 BirdCat had a mass airflow sensor)? If you suspect throttle body gasket leakage I can only suggest getting the car warm (to build pressure in the system), then pulling the intake tube and looking for coolant inside the throttle body. If you don't see anything but still suspect the throttle body gasket leaking disconnect the coolant hoses from the throttle body and loop 'em together. This would prevent coolant from being in the throttle body to begin with. If you suspect a leak at the lower intake where it bolts onto the head, pull the plugs and check for a wet one. If you find a wet one smell it. If it smells sweet it's coolant, if it smells like gasoline it's, well, gasoline. Note this check would tell you which cylinder is eating coolant but won't tell you how it's getting into the cylinder. A pressure check of the cooling system can tell you if you've got a leak, but if it's in an impissible to see place such as the lower intake or head gasket it won't tell you where the leak is. A compression check might help, but if your head gasket is gone to the point it's lowered compression you'll generally end up with a rad puking coolant as the cooling system is overpressurized. At this point exploratory surgery may be your only option.
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

I'm stumped!

Reply #4
Also, it's been so long since I've had a 302 or 3.8 throttle body off that I don't remember whether coolant even touches the TB gasket or whether it's fully contained in the throttle body. If it is fully contained, disregard the part of my post above regarding the TB gasket...
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

I'm stumped!

Reply #5
It a 5.0 engine. I don't think the throttle body is leaking any more. I wish I could just put the two hoses together and bypass the throttle body, but I had to plug them up and attach them for show (emissions). I didn't both checking out the plugs, I just started taking the intake manifold off again. I hate having to disconnect all the fuel injectors again, I just put new seals on them. I hope to take the rest off tomorrow and I will let you know what I find. Thanks!

I'm stumped!

Reply #6
Quote from: Crazy88;399333
If the intake manifold gasket slips during installation, you can see coolant (water) in the oil and it could also leak into the combustion chamber, which would be the reason for the white smoke. If this is a 5.0 liter, you can use a section (about 2 1/2") of 7/16 allthread on all four corners as locating dowels which will not only help you get the manifold aligned properly, but will also greatly reduce the possibility of gasket slippage during installation.  I just bought some allthread at my local hardware store for this very reason and paid $1.23 for 24" of it.  Then al, you need is a hacksaw and either a bench grinder or  metal file to clean up the cut ends.  I hope that this helps and good luck!
5/16 you mean???lol
1986 T-bird
347 stroker motor
185 AFR Heads
TrickFlow cam 224/232-542/563
Victor Jr. intake CNC ported
Quickfuel Holley 800 cfm
Hooker 1-3/4 long tubes
Custom built AOD
B&M 3000 stall
8.8 w/4.30 gears
UPR K-member,A-Arms,and coil-overs
UPR upper/lower control arms
Strange shocks/struts
26x10x15 M/T slicks
11.48@119.27
(coming soon Tremec 3550)
The Finished Product
http://s174.photobucket.com/albums/w92/03grinnie/T-bird/

I'm stumped!

Reply #7
5/16" all thread, I like that idea. What I don't get is the gasket has small hooks for it to lock in place. If it moved , it would have to move a lot in order for the manifold to bolt down. I will know tomorrow. Thanks!

I'm stumped!

Reply #8
Quote from: 347Thunder;399356
5/16 you mean???lol

Doh!

Yep, 5/16"...I guess it was either too late, too tired or too old... I know, no excuses. ;)

I'm stumped!

Reply #9
Well, I have the intake manifold off. What a mess! I used "Permatex high-temp red RTV silicone gasket maker" and it acts as if as soon as water or gas it dissolves. There was little to nothing where I wanted it and what was there, was plugging up the ports in clumps. I don't know if this is the wrong stuff to use or if it's shelf life is way over due, but I'm not using it again. I even let it dry for days before I tried starting the car. Oh well... I'll get another gasket set and try it again dry. By the way, the gasket was sitting pretty right where it should have been. Good news is, I getting pretty good at taking the intake manifold off.

I'm stumped!

Reply #10
Using the high temp Red RTV there was your problem. Use the Permatex Ultra-Blue RTV.

It works every time.

I'm stumped!

Reply #11
Well, I've got to be honest with you guys. I may have used the wrong RTV or it's too old... whatever. I went out to my car this morning and when I took the RTV off, what I thought was just discoloration or pitting was just my doing a sh-tty job! I grabbed my hobby knives and started sping and it started coming off, not much, but anything is too much! Well, I knew it was time for better light, more razor blades, and more elbow grease. Of course it's around the water jackets and I couldn't feel it before, but it's there no less. This time I'm not putting it together until I know it's done right...and yes, I wear glasses (lol). Remember, they won't let you retire until right before body parts start to fall off.

I'm stumped!

Reply #12
Blue perma tex FTMFW.
I use it on waterpumps too, never had a leak. I put a nice tight bead, let it sit for about 5 minutes, then smooth it down with my fingertip. Take a small knife (plastic knife from a set of plastic utensils works good here) and se off whatever is squished inside the sealing surface of the waterpump or whatever part you're working on. Install the part, and torque as required. The only time I've ever had a leak is from a defective part itself, and not something I caused.

You can also bypass the coolant port on your TB, just remember to cap off the nipples or you may get dirt in them, which may cause troubles if you need to reconnect them at some later time, such as inspections, renewing license, etc.

'Luck!
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

I'm stumped!

Reply #13
I took my manifold over to my bench and worked it over with my hobby knives, then when I was happy with that, I took some #0001 steel wool and finished cleaning it up. Looked like new. I only put the RTV where it say's to on the four corners of the rubber gasket. I also let it set for a few minutes before I put the manifold on. All I have left to do is put the distributor back on, (I marked the rotor location on the fire wall so I can line it up), the fuel lines need to be hooked up, and hook up the negative battery cable. TBS302, I screwed insert screws into the coolant lines going to my throttle body, so no more water going there, but I hooked the lines back up for "show and tell" at emissions.

I'm stumped!

Reply #14
RULE OF THUMB!!! Never use silicone unless it is date approved and in thick cirspoogestances. Example the front and rear of the valley portion of the manifold. Other than that assemble DRY. WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS DO NOT USE CHEMICALS. They SUCK!!! ASSEMBLE IT DRY other than the front and rear valley GAP!!!

NOTE silicone is the most miss used chemical on the market. We very rarely use it. We find it in oil systems oil pans and water jackets by people using it improperly. Rule of THUMB avoid it like the PLAGUE!!! THE STUFF IS LIMITED AT BEST.

:hick::mullet::burnout:
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!