Finally No Start Reply #45 – June 17, 2012, 08:55:18 PM If i have this story corect and that engine is a fresh rebuild!!! Those compression numbers are atrocious!! Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #46 – June 17, 2012, 11:13:12 PM Compression #s not great, but it should still run. Looks like a fuel issue. Too much or not enough. The shreader valve to test fuel pressure is normally located after the fuel pressure regulator. An old fashion fuel pressure test will tell you if it's the regulator. Putting noid lights in the place of the injectors and then cranking the engine will tell you if the injectors are being told to fire. The noid lights should flicker as you crank. No flicker would indicate a bad wire, bad sensor of some sort, or bad ECM. After this ur looking at injectors. And please, never run Bosh plugs. Autolight or Motorsport are great. Champion are fine in a pinch. Bosh is NEVER good. The Platinum in the Bosh plugs just makes it expensive junk. Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #47 – June 18, 2012, 05:28:30 AM well don't just hold the button down.. what i meant was when it starts to stall just give it another little squirt. And yes, you have to be careful or it will BLOW UP Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #48 – June 18, 2012, 06:00:50 AM They call it starting fluid to start an engine, not run it for a few minutes lol Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #49 – June 18, 2012, 07:10:48 AM Quote from: ThunderbirdSport302;392610They call it starting fluid to start an engine, not run it for a few minutes lolthanks for stating the obvious... How long will it run? as long as there is a fuel supply, but as it still doesn't seem to start with the starting fluid... it's not fuel related, soo it's irrelelevant. do you have cats? might want to make sure the exhaust can escape.. probably another dumb statement but its an idea Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #50 – June 18, 2012, 07:48:49 AM Quote from: stangman_1987;392611thanks for stating the obvious... You're welcome. How long will it run? Apparently it still doesn't? as long as there is a fuel supply, ignition, and oxygen. but as it still doesn't seem to start with the starting fluid... it's not fuel related, soo it's irrelelevant. I agree. It's definitely irrelelevant. Has the OP tested fuel pressure properly, though? do you have cats? Yes, and 4 dogs, 1 snake, and 5 mice. might want to make sure the exhaust can escape..I would like to know who trapped it!? probably another dumb statement but its an idea It's a great idea...if I was the OP, that'd be the next thing on the list after the electronics pan out.... Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #51 – June 18, 2012, 08:43:28 AM wow dude, that's real cool. You are the man. I hope everybody gets a nice laugh. Apparently you've got an issue with me.. why? I have no idea. Guess I'll keep my opinions and ideas to myself.. since there's people here who know everything about everything. ............ But for real, whats your problem? Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #52 – June 18, 2012, 09:01:10 AM Ok, I apologize for whatever got you going. Also my questions were directed towards the OP. I have no cats, dogs, kids, or mice. I thought this was a friendly forum. Not an insult board for trying to help and propose ideas. If that's just your sense of humor coming into play, then cool. Best regards and good luck to the OP. Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #53 – June 18, 2012, 03:53:18 PM Tom and ChromeQuoteIf i have this story corect and that engine is a fresh rebuild!!! Those compression numbers are atrocious!! I agree kinda low, but not sure whether my tester. That's why wanted confirming test if I could have got the Autozone one to work.QuoteCompression #s not great, but it should still run. Looks like a fuel issue. Too much or not enough. That's my feeling also with the return side volume being low. Maybe some kind of restriction as don't see fuel in the oil (unless its evaporating off quickly.That's why I was interested in stangman_1987 answer regarding starting fluid as "my logic" said by shutting off the injectors and fuel pump relay the only fuel source would be the starting fluid andconfirm fuel as the problem.Chrome for what its worth, I usually use a stethoscope and listen to the injectors. This was you don't have to disconnect the injectors and sound will tell you if the injector solenoid is working.Quote stangman_1987 -- might want to make sure the exhaust can escape.. probably another dumb statement Not so dumb a thought. Prior to this last NO-Start, my thought also, so took it to Midas to have them check out the catalytic convertor. As "Luck" would have it died in their parking lot. Consequently, had them work on it. Worked on it 8 hours, put in new dissy and PIP and still no start. Finally with my help had them check fuel volume, and by taking off return line allowed vehicle to start.Had them put back in old dissy and PIP, and with return line off again started right up, Took it home, ran it twice more and finally died for good and this post is the result.As stated above, whether return line just a fluke -- engine had cooled by then -- or a fuel issue hopefully will eventually find out as ready to send the Cat to Cat heaven.-----------------Somehow overlooked INFAMOUSAPA comment and stangmans response:QuoteOriginally Posted by INFAMOUSAPA View PostAHAHAHAHAHAH....Just saying i had the same problem with my 88TBird..Thought it was fuel...Starter selenoid...But my tranny needed work...Which caused no crank at all...Tranny has a soleniod by pass thingy on our cars...I fixed the tranny...After spending weeks looking for the problem...And to my suprise it was my tranny...You must mean a neutral safety switch or whatever you wanna call it.. Actually neutral safety switch not a bad guess -- is part of the start-crank circuit -- but since engine cranks, IMO this drops it out of the picture. Easy test for this (and the ignition switch) is to run the common DVOM lead to the dissy base and then turn the iginition switch to both run and start while separately checking TFI pins 2, 3, and 4 (use straight pin attached to pos DVOM lead). If you get 90% of battery voltage both ignition and neutral safety switch are OK. Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #54 – June 18, 2012, 04:44:08 PM HaHa, yeah I know that's not your case, cause yours cranks.. I was referring to what his solenoid thingy must have been. Soo, I can see why you think it's a fuel issue with how it ran with the return line off.. weird that it won't fire with the starting fluid. And yes I do know it takes more than fuel for an engine to run. I'm just really thinking it's not fuel related if it doesn't start on the can. I guess it's possible to be a combination of things.. it's been a while since I read your first post, but was it sluggish at all before this happened? Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #55 – June 18, 2012, 07:37:01 PM Stethoscope for testing injector function.... That's clever! Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #56 – June 18, 2012, 09:38:28 PM I'm just a bit too ADD to re-read the whole thread, but may I ask where you're disconnecting the return at in the system, and have you tried disconnecting it a different points (if there are multiple accessible points)? The reason I ask, is that if there might be a problem with the return, you may be able to determine which section of line it is. Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #57 – June 18, 2012, 10:21:38 PM TheFoeYouKnow: Be glad to:Quotewhere you're disconnecting the return at in the system, and have you tried disconnecting it a different points What I did is this (going from memory instead of copying previous post):1) Disconnected injector harness 3) Put on fuel pressure gauge. 3) Disconnected return line at TB.4) Turned ignition on for 10 seconds and collected gas in a calibrated container (BTW repeated this three times to make sure no volume changes) Pressure BTW was 39 PSI. (per spec)5) Container had about 5.5 oz of fuel. - (Per shop should of had approx 9.5)6) Next disconnected supply line at TB.7) Turned ignition on for 10 seconds and collected gas in a calibrated container (BTW repeated this three times to make sure no volume changes) Container had about 11.5 oz of fuel. - (shop does NOT give any specs for supply side), but calculating high pressure pump volume based on pump output, this is good).After reconnecting lines -- and couple days later --ran the pressure test again. Still 39 PSI -- BUT -- after cycling on/off 5 time for 10 seconds each time, pressure dropped more than 4 psi (dropped about 6-7 psi) after waiting 2 minutes. This is NOT per spec per manual.. Both the above indicate to "me" either a restriction in the TB and/or failure of the Fuel Pressure Regulator.=========================FWIW I can also test before the high pressure pump (this will test the low pressure pump) and just after the high pressure pump which effectively is the same as pulling the supply line at the TB.Since volume on supply side good, I ruled out any pump issues for now./////////////////////////////////////stangman:Quotewas it sluggish at all before this happened?Sometimes would take two or three (mostly two) key turns to start, but vehicle is NOT run daily, in fact about once a week when it runs (LOL)!! Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #58 – June 19, 2012, 12:44:54 PM Didn't read the entire thread either, but is this a double fuel pump car? One high pressure one volume, and could one of them be going bad? Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #59 – June 19, 2012, 04:05:12 PM Soul:Quoteis this a double fuel pump carYep: But based on previous thread both pressure and volume on supply side look OK, Quote Selected
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