Finally No Start Reply #30 – June 11, 2012, 04:54:23 PM is that a car forum troll? I'm baffled.... Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #31 – June 11, 2012, 06:04:35 PM Hopefully that one feller just has a well developed sense of sarcastic humor, but then again...what do I know? Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #32 – June 11, 2012, 11:49:39 PM Quote from: ThunderbirdSport302;392033Hopefully that one feller just has a well developed sense of sarcastic humor We'll just go with that. Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #33 – June 12, 2012, 03:54:31 PM Getting back to the matter at hand, Tom has a good point but I still think that a leak down is necessary as it establishes how well the cylinder is sealing (the rings are sealing and the valves are seating). From there a person would move to a compression check which deals with carbon build up, cam timing, and engine cranking speed. I just don't think a person can assume that if all the cylinders are low on compression across the board a timing chain or belt has skipped as it could be that the motor has ring or valve issues i.e. worn out. So with all that said do both if you can.Until you prove out the mechanicals your chasing your tail.Darren Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #34 – June 12, 2012, 04:22:37 PM All the cylinders LOW and not a timing ISSUE. I DONT THINK SO???? Cylinder sealing is one thing Compression is another. A quick compression test is what he needs to do. You can have a great leak down with low compression. This was very typical when engines used to skip time with those NYLON GEARS. Leak down was fine but compression was in the dumps. Trust me on this. I am not saying it is his issue but it is something to get out of the equation. Just me could be wrong again!! Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #35 – June 12, 2012, 05:08:57 PM I am not saying that it could not be a timing issue. All I am saying it you just cannot say that is what it is without further buttstuffysis. Agree to disagree I guess.Darren Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #36 – June 12, 2012, 09:48:25 PM Quote from: Aerocoupe;392125I am not saying that it could not be a timing issue. All I am saying it you just cannot say that is what it is without further buttstuffysis. Agree to disagree I guess.DarrenExactly that is why a compression test will clear that up . And he can move ON., Personally i think he has no spark. Just me could be wrong again. Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #37 – June 12, 2012, 10:26:26 PM He said he has an orange spark...compression issues aside, that's enough to throw a flag in my head. Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #38 – June 12, 2012, 11:56:04 PM Quote from: TOM Renzo;392132Exactly that is why a compression test will clear that up . And he can move ON., Personally i think he has no spark. Just me could be wrong again. Again? You were unsure about fuel volume test, but not really wrong. Leak down or compression would both be good tests to do. I would start with compression test just because it is quicker. In the end, he may have to do both depending upon results. If I had enough money to gamble, I would put it on lack of spark. It's just the whole starting out as intermittant thing that makes me think it is not mechanical. Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #39 – June 13, 2012, 06:29:18 PM Quote from: TheFoeYouKnow;391993Seriously, dude, don't drink the bong water.AHAHAHAHAHAH....Just saying i had the same problem with my 88TBird..Thought it was fuel...Starter selenoid...But my tranny needed work...Which caused no crank at all...Tranny has a soleniod by pass thingy on our cars...I fixed the tranny...After spending weeks looking for the problem...And to my suprise it was my tranny... Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #40 – June 13, 2012, 07:24:42 PM Quote from: INFAMOUSAPA;392225AHAHAHAHAHAH....Just saying i had the same problem with my 88TBird..Thought it was fuel...Starter selenoid...But my tranny needed work...Which caused no crank at all...Tranny has a soleniod by pass thingy on our cars...I fixed the tranny...After spending weeks looking for the problem...And to my suprise it was my tranny... You must mean a neutral safety switch or whatever you wanna call it.. Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #41 – June 14, 2012, 12:50:09 PM OK guys: Here's what I've done:1) As you may recall engine was rebuilt about 3000-4000 mile ago by an AERA rebuilder. Had to redo head twice and used a sealant (Irontite) the second time around. This was done without my knowledge and most probably to get the car past his warranty period.2) Have noticed a little coolant seepage from the bottom of the head (underneath and outside by the #6 cylinder). Have NOT noticed any coolant in the oil AND pressure testing the cooling system when cold, the head gaskets hold pressure. My conclusion is that like a lot of GM's the head seep when hot.3) Pulled the plugs (were Bosch platinum) and all looked like they had been running rich -- lot of carbon for 4000 miles. I also noticed some white flaky material (almost like ash) on the porcelain of the >> #2 <4) Did a compression test (used my old Penske push on tester and borrowed an Autozone screw-in type for confirmation) Could Not use Autozone screw in type as unable to access the cyclinders with the engine in the vehicle. Even with my push in type had a "h#$%^& of a time and not sure results are correct. For reference (cylinder and results):1---Unable to access (Put finder over hole and there is compression)2 -- 1003 -- 1354 -- 1205 -- 1206 -- 135 I know #2 looks low, but a %^&* to access so not sure of the results. (see above note about ash on porcelain of #2). Given the fact engine was just rebuilt I'm going to say compression OK and that test may be off because of difficulty accessing cylinders.=====================Replaced all plugs with new Autolite copper (Believe car originally came with Champion copper, but had bought Autolite previously so had them available). ===================== Followed manual for No-Start condition (p25-1)Electrical checked out OK.However did fail on Fuel Pressure Leak Down Check. MANUAL COMMENT re: failure: "Immediately CHECK for hydraulic lock up or fouled spark plugs. REFER to Group 24 for CFI Injector and/or regulator service." Since engine cranks I'm assuming No LockUp (NOT really sure how to test for this ???)Plugs were fouled and replaced so no issue with plugs.==============Per previous post the fact I got good volume on supply side and NOT on return side indicated (to me) something inside throttle body. The above test seems to point to this also.My guess fuel pressure regulator, but going to pull CFI and rebuild it.==============================Any input or comments or disagreement is appreciated.David Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #42 – June 17, 2012, 09:26:14 AM Before I rebuild the CFI, one question:Removed injector wires from TB. Also removed Fuel Pump Relay.Rational here is this way no chance of any fuel entering engine (for example if internal leakage from inside TB).After sitting overnight -- spayed Start-Up Fluid into top of TB with choke open and engine seemed it tried to start (at least better than previously).QUESTION:With starting fluid and NO other gas available, will the engine run for a short period (10-15 second for example) -- or -- what response should I expect from the above conditions? Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #43 – June 17, 2012, 09:54:20 AM it will stay running if you keep squirting it in, but it's definitely not good for the valves.. Quote Selected
Finally No Start Reply #44 – June 17, 2012, 07:26:37 PM Thanks for feedbackQuoteit will stay running if you keep squirting it in, but it's definitely not good for the valves.. WORD OF CAUTION TO ANYONE READING THIS --Wouldn't even consider "keep squirting. IMO if backfire, could follow spay back into can and blowup -- similar to lighter fluid and a barbeque. Quote Selected
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