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Topic: engine stand (Read 724 times) previous topic - next topic

engine stand

I want to pull my buddys blown motor out. Is that a certain engine stand i need or will any work?
1987 turbo coupe 5speed: Boport stage 3 head/2.5 cam , Precision stage 3 50trim .63 turbo, Tial 38mm wastegate, Jangus gutted/ported intake manifolds, 60mm tb, Jangus open dumptube, Jangus 3" elbow, Perrin boost controller,Esslinger adjustable cam pulley, Esslinger small crank pulley, stinger FMI, RFL BOV, Spec stage 3 clutch, B&M short throw, 140 speedo, Walbo 255lph, BBK fpr, 3G alternator, ARP studs.  Be faster... :poke:

engine stand

Reply #1
Just remember to take the flywheel/flexplate off first and you're good to go. Every stand I've seen has movable arms to fit all motors. You might need to make sure you have the right thread bolts to hold it there though.
1983 Tbird with '03 Split Port V6 motor swap done! Headers, dual exhaust, 500CFM Edelbrock, 3G upgrade, Electric fan. 3.73 Gears and an FRPP Limited Slip. Five lug complete! 5-Speed conversion complete! Standalone Fuel Injection in progress...

engine stand

Reply #2
correct, any stand should work.. but most stands allow you to leave the flywheel/flexplate bolted to the crank.. clutch will definitely have to come off, if it's coming out of a 5spd car
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engine stand

Reply #3
Okay sweet thank you very much!!
1987 turbo coupe 5speed: Boport stage 3 head/2.5 cam , Precision stage 3 50trim .63 turbo, Tial 38mm wastegate, Jangus gutted/ported intake manifolds, 60mm tb, Jangus open dumptube, Jangus 3" elbow, Perrin boost controller,Esslinger adjustable cam pulley, Esslinger small crank pulley, stinger FMI, RFL BOV, Spec stage 3 clutch, B&M short throw, 140 speedo, Walbo 255lph, BBK fpr, 3G alternator, ARP studs.  Be faster... :poke:

engine stand

Reply #4
you will need some long bolts for the lower 4 holes to attach to the stand since they are not threaded.