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Topic: A new issue to work out..UPDATE... (Read 6074 times) previous topic - next topic

A new issue to work out..UPDATE...

After I installed the intake and 70mm t-body, when I turn the a/c on, the engine starts to get warmer than it should. It hasn't overheated, but it is getting too hot.Fan is working great, timing at 12 degrees, no leaks anywhere......the thermostat seems fine (the engine stays down below the half way mark with the ac off.). Maybe i need a cooler thermostat? The one I have (not sure what temp rating) is a stock replacement piece for the 5.0 Sport. I may drain the coolant and just run distilled water, water cooler, and some anti corrosion stuff for the radiator that prevents rust.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

A new issue to work out..UPDATE...

Reply #1 –
What radiator, and how old is it?
Mike

A new issue to work out..UPDATE...

Reply #2 –
aluminum factory style replacement and it's less than a year old.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

A new issue to work out..UPDATE...

Reply #3 –
what was your timing before, when it didn't overheat??? what else was changed when you did the intake
1986 T-bird
347 stroker motor
185 AFR Heads
TrickFlow cam 224/232-542/563
Victor Jr. intake CNC ported
Quickfuel Holley 800 cfm
Hooker 1-3/4 long tubes
Custom built AOD
B&M 3000 stall
8.8 w/4.30 gears
UPR K-member,A-Arms,and coil-overs
UPR upper/lower control arms
Strange shocks/struts
26x10x15 M/T slicks
11.48@119.27
(coming soon Tremec 3550)
The Finished Product
http://s174.photobucket.com/albums/w92/03grinnie/T-bird/

A new issue to work out..UPDATE...

Reply #4 –
The timing was at 14 degrees, now it's at 12, and I changed the intake (upper and lower), throttle body and spacer....I'll probably bump the timing up to 14 (I think it's good with my combo), and I'll do as I stated above, run straight distilled water, water wetter, and anti corrosion stuff. See what happens from there.

I really haven't used the a/c much at all since it's been done. haven't needed to. Also, it's now hitting temps in the high 90's.  It may have had the same effect before, and I didn't leave it on long enough to notice. Either way, gotta figure it out.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

A new issue to work out..UPDATE...

Reply #5 –
It has been really hot lately, but mine has been running cool with the AC on.  Is it a aftermarket temp gauge?
Mike

A new issue to work out..UPDATE...

Reply #6 –
How warm is it getting? Just a little warmer than normal or near the overheating line? My T-bird runs a bit warmer than normal when it's 90* and I'm running the A/C. I'm running a 180* thermostat. This might be normal for your car when it's hot. It may have run warm with the GT40 intake but since you never ran it in the heat with the A/C on it's imposible to know for sure.

Just a thought but do you have the rubber air dam under the front bumper? With the solid TC header panel you need that air dam to deflect air up to the radiator.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

A new issue to work out..UPDATE...

Reply #7 –
The temp gauge is stock, but has never let me down. I do have an air dam. I have a Mach 1 chin spoiler. The temp gets right near the overheat line. Too close for comfort. I'll start with the water (I mentioned above) and see what happens. After that, maybe a bigger radiator if I have to.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

A new issue to work out..UPDATE...

Reply #8 –
You have to know how hot the engine actually is. Check the return hose temp. TOP HOSE with an inferred temp gauge. If its over 220* its running hot. Make sure your radiator is flow tested to specks and clean inside. You really have to run a mixture of 50/50 coolant otherwise the engine will really over heat. Remember coolant boils at much hotter temps than water. Also the electronic sensors are designed for coolant not water. Some will argue that point but several dealer bulletins confirm this. Also is the radiator the stock one and is the AC overcharged. Many novice mechanics overcharge the AC and drive the high side pressure through the moon. Other than that the radiator may be clogged with deposits. Good luck Tom
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

A new issue to work out..UPDATE...

Reply #9 –
The current radiator is just a few months old, aluminum version of the factory style radiator. With a/c, no grille on the car, somewhat modded 5.0, and daily temps around 100 degrees already (15 to 20 degrees hotter very soon), it may be those conditions. I will see about a temp check on the hose. I still want to get the bigger 3 row radiator. It can't hurt in this area.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

A new issue to work out..UPDATE...

Reply #10 –
You have to find out why your car is running hot before throwing parts at it. Is the air cooling the coolant does the radiator have the proper FIN COUNT. Does yhe coolant stay in the radiator long enough for the fan to cool it. And what type of fan is the car running. If its a clutch fan is it operating properly? A larger 3 row radiator may have more tubes and less FIN COUNT. What is the fin count on the stock radiator and what is the fin count on the new one??? Sometimes BIGGER IS NOT BETTER. Also is the radiator cap holding pressure??? Remember this the water cools the engine. The radiator spreads out the hot coolant and the air cools the coolant. When this is maxed out the engine runs hot. Do you have enough air flow through the radiator and is the radiator transferring enough heat for the fan to dissipate it.  Good luck Tom
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

A new issue to work out..UPDATE...

Reply #11 –
I have no idea what the fin count is. I have a Taurus fan doing the cooling. As far as proper airflow....Hard to say. I have the TC header panel, no grille. The car isn't over heating, it's just getting closer to the hot side than I am comfortable with. Before I added a/c, it always dd great. Now, installing a condenser in front of the radiator, the ambient heat here, thin radiator, no grille, and a lot of stop and go slow driving, it all adds up. I do understand how how the water, radiator, fan system cools and it's function, and I don't throw parts at the car. I do believe a larger radiator can't hurt. Will it cure the problem? Maybe, maybe not, but it is something I have wanted to do anyway, so now is the time. I've got some more studying on the Sport to do before I have all my answers (of just "answer"). I haven't really had any time to check much out. Without the a/c running, the gauge goes just a little over the half way mark. Not too bad. With the a/c running, close to hot, but in the "normal" range.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

A new issue to work out..UPDATE...

Reply #12 –
Advance the timing to 14* or 15* and increase the idle with your foot to 1000RPM and see if it makes a difference. The older carb/dist set-ups had a temp sender that would allow full vacuum to the vacuum advance which would advance the timing and  raise the idle speed to lower the high temp. It's worth a try.
84 COUGAR/90 HO, 1.7RRs, performer RPM,700DP, equal length shorties, stainless EXH ,T-5,Hurst pro-billet, KC clutch, 8.8/ 4.10s, line-lok, bla ,bla, bla.
71 COMET/289,351w heads, 12.5 TRWs, 750DP, Liberty TL, 9"/6.00s, 11.9x @112 , bla,bla,bla.

Never shoot your mouth off, unless your brain is loaded! ....I may get older, but I'll never grow up!....If you're not laughing, you're not living!  :laughing:

A new issue to work out..UPDATE...

Reply #13 –
how many cores are in the one you got now? 2?... You said it's a stock replacement?
I would go with the 3.
Is your fan a dbl or single fan?
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
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5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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A new issue to work out..UPDATE...

Reply #14 –
Why not simply pull out your t-stat and see if it runs on the cool.side if it does u need a new one and by pulling it out it wouldn't cost you anything but time
87 TC
HO Swap, T5 Swap, Mach Springs, CHE Upper and Lower control arms, Mach Chin spoiler, soon to be Procharged.

:evilgrin: Nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD you want to hit it but are scared of the consequences. :evilgrin: