Fox T-Bird/Cougar Forums  

Lets try to clear up some of this code mystery.
The codes come in three categories. The meaning of some codes change depending on which category it is in.
KOEO gives two categories of codes:
1. On demand codes. These read out first. They are the results of the self tests that run when you "pull codes". They are "faults" present at the time of testing. They are not stored in the KAM(Keep Alive Memory). The only way to get rid of them is to fix the problem.
2. Memory (or continuous) codes. These read out second, after a separator pulse or a 10 on the code reader. These are "faults" collected and stored during drive cycles.
These can be reset by disconnecting the jumper from the self test connector pig tail wire or disconnecting the pig tail wire from the code reader while the codes are reading out.
Rerun the KOEO to verify they cleared.
3. KOER codes.

What codes do you have and what category are they in?

I retrieve codes by using the jumper style method. This:

How to Prepare for the Self-Test

To check for codes without buying a code reader is simple. If your EEC is wired correctly, the engine light works, and there are not any electrical faults in the vehicle you can get the codes out of your EEC.

1. Turn key to OFF.
2. Get a length of wire that can connect the STI to the negative battery terminal or body ground.
3. Ground the Self-Test Input.
4. Get some paper and a pen.
5. Get comfortable in the drivers seat.
6. Try to keep your self from getting distracted from here on.
7. Turn key to RUN.
8. You will hear some relays engage and the fuel pumps prime the system. This is the EEC beginning the test.
9. When the fuel pumps stop be ready to count!

And I get the codes 67, then 1, then 63, then 33.

This proceedure did the KOEO (Key On Engine Off) self test.

67 is an "on demand" code.
1 is the separator pulse.
63 and 33 are memory codes.

Run the test again, and while the memory codes are reading out, disconnect the jumper wire.
Turn the key off. Reconnect the jumper wire. Run the test again. The memory codes 63 and 33 should be gone. Remove the jumper wire.
Start the car and let it idle for 20 minutes. (warm up).
Turn the engine off. Install jumper wire. Start the engine and record the KOER (Key On Engine Running) codes.

Let us know what you get.

I have. That is how these three codes are the only ones left. I finally was informed how to fix the code 67, from Joel over at SBFTech. I'm going to do that tomorrow, hopefully. I have changed the TPS, with one I got from vinnie, and the code went away for like 2 days. So I'm not sure about that. I have also changed out the EGR valve twice, and I have not been able to get the code to not show up. However, with the KOEO test, the EGR valve not detecting might not be a problem. 

Again, I have cleared the codes, and these are the three that have stayed.

Are you saying you cleared the codes and they reoccured after driving the car or they never cleared?

The TPS one did, temporarily for a little while, and the EGR one did not go away.

Someone posted on one of my other threads it might be because I did the KOEO test.

This statement is confusing. The reason I asked you to rerun the KOEO after resetting the memory codes was to insure the program in the EEC was working right and resetting the codes. I am gussing you are operating from memory or notes and did not actually do it. .

The KOEO and KOER tests will not set any memory codes.
The KOEO test will set an "on demand" EGR code if the voltage from the EVP (Egr Valve Position) sensor is out of specs for a closed valve condition.
The KOER test will set an "on damand" EGR code if the voltage from the EVP sensor is out of specs for an open valve condition.

Memory codes are stored in the KAM (Keep Alive Memory) while driving the car.  If they only show up  as memory codes and not on demand codes, they are intermittent failures.

Symptoms kind of match up to an EGR problem.

Have you tried a new TPS (read #21) or at least checking the one you have to make sure it is at a good starting voltage and when swept from idle to WOT that it reads smoothly and has no dead spots?  Another thing you could be dealing with is the black and white connectors between the main EEC harness and the injector harness.  I did not read where you have checked fuel pressure (posts #7, #17, & #18).  I would think the the fuel pressure would be something that you would need to eliminate quickly.

Darren