Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Topic: Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10 (Read 11949 times) previous topic - next topic

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #45 – February 10, 2011, 09:14:25 PM

4 Barrel?

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #46 – February 10, 2011, 09:43:45 PM

carburetor dude

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #47 – February 10, 2011, 09:48:28 PM

Quote from: sarjxxx;352561

carburetor dude

Yeah, I realized that after I walked away... But I think I have a more serious problem than that... Believe it or not, I probably have a bad head gasket on my 5.0. Which would explain a couple of things... The elevated temperature, the wierd goop in my oil fill cap, etc. I need a bomb, or a Gatling gun, is what I need.

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #48 – February 10, 2011, 09:49:54 PM

or a 3.8

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #49 – February 10, 2011, 09:51:50 PM

Quote from: sarjxxx;352563

or a 3.8

been there, done that. Had a 3.8 that ate a head gasket. now I have a 5.0 chewing through one. I've had a 4 banger, it didn't idle all that great, but it sure did ride nice. I liked it.

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #50 – February 10, 2011, 10:08:31 PM

You have to correct all of the mechanical problems first. Kinda hard for the EEC to do its job if the engine is not up to par. A head gasket job is not that bad if you have a garage you can pull the heads in. I would stongly suggest that you take the heads to a shop and have them check them to make sure thay are flat. Would suck to change the gaskets only to have it blow out again. Do you know anyone with a leak down tester? That would be the best way to determine if your problem is head related and which cylinder has the issue.

Darren

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #51 – February 10, 2011, 10:57:36 PM

So what were the resitances on the grounding pins to the eec and the battery cable? My bet is that your eec has something bad inside it, your missing one or more of the grounds, and I'm still sure you timing is off. But I can only guess from what you tell us.

The egr does not do anything as long as there is no vacspooge to it. You will not get a check engine light, but you will get a code. When you get a code your egr is not finctioning to begin with.

The reason for checking your grounding resistance is to make sure you will check the wires. If the wires check out, then its the computer, or a sensor. So go and check your grounds. Report back your finding and I will send you my s.o. computer for free.

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #52 – February 11, 2011, 06:42:24 PM

Quote from: Haystack;352573

So what were the resitances on the grounding pins to the eec and the battery cable? My bet is that your eec has something bad inside it, your missing one or more of the grounds, and I'm still sure you timing is off. But I can only guess from what you tell us.

The egr does not do anything as long as there is no vacspooge to it. You will not get a check engine light, but you will get a code. When you get a code your egr is not finctioning to begin with.

The reason for checking your grounding resistance is to make sure you will check the wires. If the wires check out, then its the computer, or a sensor. So go and check your grounds. Report back your finding and I will send you my s.o. computer for free.

I get the code and a check engine light though. So it tried to function sometimes, right? I may be missing a ground to the computer. My nuetral safety switch wasn't grounded, so I spliced into that pin and grounded it. Got rid of code 67. But I had the EGR valve code before I grounded that pin. Can you explain the grounding the pins to the battery? Which pin? The pin 33 from the regulator?

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #53 – February 12, 2011, 01:02:33 AM

You do not ground to the battery. Any metal on the body of the car is grounded. First, rule out the wires by checking to see if they are even connected. Do a resistance test, as per the links I keep linking you to, and you keep ignoring. If all your grounds are good, then move onto the positive and do the same thing.

Ignore the egr code. If your getting a code it isn't working, so you don't have to worry about it if you capped the vacspooge leak.

Then after that, check the sensors resistance and voltages to make sure they are good. If they check out too, throw a new computer in the car.

The codes litterly tell you what is wrong. If your getting a check engine light flashing and don't get a code for it, something is screwed up. I'm done holding hands. Everything is right infront of you. Take mine, and others advise, oe don't. Its up to you to figure out. Not me or anyone else.

If your having problems with the way things are explained, just say so. I really don't think I can paint any better picture of "prove" that something is worth doing if your not going to even look at it.

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #54 – February 12, 2011, 01:28:29 PM

Quote from: Haystack;352573

So what were the resitances on the grounding pins to the eec and the battery cable? My bet is that your eec has something bad inside it, your missing one or more of the grounds, and I'm still sure you timing is off. But I can only guess from what you tell us.

Read what you typed. I was asking for clarification on the first sentence. Hence why I asked about the battery cable.

Quote from: Haystack;352573

The reason for checking your grounding resistance is to make sure you will check the wires. If the wires check out, then its the computer, or a sensor. So go and check your grounds. Report back your finding and I will send you my s.o. computer for free.

I checked the resistance to the EVR selenioid. It was 39.5 ohms. If thats not what you were suggesting I check, then I apologize, I guess I don't understand.

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #55 – February 12, 2011, 06:37:09 PM

Alright. Well I drove the car tonight, I didn't really have a choice. The car is bucking, hard. What I mean by this is when you let off the gas, the car seems to "stumble" as if you were applying the brakes and letting off, over and over again. I get a check engine light, I jumpered the plugs and got an on demand code 34. It did this on friday too.

[/B]34: PFE or EVP circuit above the closed limit of 0.67 volts.[/B]

Now I don't think I have a PFE, but I swapped the EVP, same error. So I know the unit is fine, It's something in the line. Haystack hasn't been back, I'm not sure what he was trying to tell me to check before. I made up an new vacuum line system today that is identical to the one one, I reused the old heads, but all new lines and connectors. So the problem is not the EGR valve or the EVP, or I don't think it could be vacuum.

I can see the TPs and the EVP have the same three colored wires going to them. So if there is a problem with either unit, possible a code for the other would come up. Where the EVP one is on demand, i'm thinking thats it.

I went here : http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=35 Now the values I get, are they from the EVP wire to the SGN RTN or to the VREF wire?

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #56 – February 13, 2011, 12:57:18 AM

I think i know what the problem is. Way back on the first page you specifically stated "check engine" adn for some darn reason I started thinking in the wrong direction.

DO this........
get the pry bar you use to remove your belt and put it in the back of the car.
when you pull in to home after driving , quickly jump out of the car and remove the belt just enough to clear the belt off the smog pump.

tell us if the smog pully isnt feeling tight or grindy feeling.
if so,,your engine is being robbed of power which answers a multitude of up hill power issues.

also,, just fyi
get a can of wd40 and plan on wasting it all.
un hook ever vac line you see going to a solenoid.
spray up in the solinoid and fill er' up.
spray up inside the lines getting plenty in there.
spray inside the vac tree
spray inside the brake booster line
spray inside everything you can think of.

this will lubricate the solinoids and the plastic / rubber orings and plungers ect.

but seriously, if that smog is going bad, and the problem is gettng worse like you said, it will eventually start throwing a belt.

as for the sensors and values,, see my diy link.

as for pulling codes, just listen to softtouch. dont pull codes on a cold moter either, it will have you chasing the wrong things.

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #57 – February 13, 2011, 12:44:45 PM

Quote from: jcassity;352781

I think i know what the problem is. Way back on the first page you specifically stated "check engine" adn for some darn reason I started thinking in the wrong direction.

DO this........
get the pry bar you use to remove your belt and put it in the back of the car.
when you pull in to home after driving , quickly jump out of the car and remove the belt just enough to clear the belt off the smog pump.

tell us if the smog pully isnt feeling tight or grindy feeling.
if so,,your engine is being robbed of power which answers a multitude of up hill power issues.

also,, just fyi
get a can of wd40 and plan on wasting it all.
un hook ever vac line you see going to a solenoid.
spray up in the solinoid and fill er' up.
spray up inside the lines getting plenty in there.
spray inside the vac tree
spray inside the brake booster line
spray inside everything you can think of.

this will lubricate the solinoids and the plastic / rubber orings and plungers ect.

but seriously, if that smog is going bad, and the problem is gettng worse like you said, it will eventually start throwing a belt.

as for the sensors and values,, see my diy link.

as for pulling codes, just listen to softtouch. dont pull codes on a cold moter either, it will have you chasing the wrong things.

Alright I drove the car around for a couple of minutes and took the belt off. The smog pump seems to spin freely. I mean It doesn’t spin free like the alternator does, but it’s not sticking or hard to spin either. I will get out there with some WD 40 now, and start spraying stuff. I do pull codes on a warm motor.
If I’m driving down the street, and I put the car in neutral, the jerking/bucking stops. Would this eliminate the possibility of the smog pump going bad? If it was binding, wouldn’t it do it all the time?

I also ran another KOER test. After doing the steering wheel jerk and the brake pedal depress, while waiting for the single flash for the "dynamic test" I get a readout for code 34. After that nothing. I did the gas pedal depress, and the idle kept changing for about 10 minutes, I never got any codes so I shut it off. It never used to take that long.

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #58 – February 13, 2011, 02:11:49 PM

dependnig on the wear, the smog pump may bind up only after the engine is hot.

sounds like its not the smog though.
sounds like something is simply robbing you of power.

wonder if the AC compressor is over charged or is binding up like I described on the smog.

Check Engine Lights Flashes-The Saga Continues 2/10

Reply #59 – February 13, 2011, 02:52:50 PM

Has anyone suggested pulling the MAF element and cleaning it? This can be over looked and it will cause all kinds of havoc. Scratch this if the car is not a mass air car.

Darren