rather new to the site

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rather new to the site

March 27, 2010, 11:50:54 PM

Wassup everyone, my name is Tim(some call me Mike). Anyway..as u can see I'm new to the site. I currently own a 01 Acura CL-Type S as my everyday get around vehicle. I'm looking at a 87 Turbocoupe Tbird for sell. I might get it, this would be my first project car and turbo at that(noob). I wanted to get some insight on what are some key things to look at about this vehicle. I do have knowledge of cars and working with them but this is something different. Thanks in advanced...

rather new to the site

Reply #1 – March 28, 2010, 12:07:28 AM

Welcome. Good to have ya!

rather new to the site

Reply #2 – March 28, 2010, 12:21:20 AM

On top of the normal things you look for in a 20+ year old used car, for one thing see if its the stock turbo. Check for shaft play if you can, ask him if the seals have been replaced or if the stock turbo has been rebuilt. And also do a compression test :). Check the oil and oil leaks, under the hood look and see if the hoses and lines are worn/crack, check and see if the exhaust mani is cracked (they get pretty darn hot), check the brakes as best as you can visually, the idle shouldn't be surging or super low probably should idle around 750 (I'm not sure I personally never drove a turbo coupe). When you drive the car and it bogs and sputters and falls on its face then you know something is wrong. I don't know much about the 2.3 but I heard they are pretty hardy motors. It should have some pep in its step once it goes into boost.
That's all I can think of at the moment being that its so late.
Good luck hun :)

rather new to the site

Reply #3 – March 28, 2010, 12:48:53 AM

Quote from: CobraGurl;316159

On top of the normal things you look for in a 20+ year old used car, for one thing see if its the stock turbo. Check for shaft play if you can, ask him if the seals have been replaced or if the stock turbo has been rebuilt. And also do a compression test :). Check the oil and oil leaks, under the hood look and see if the hoses and lines are worn/crack, check and see if the exhaust mani is cracked (they get pretty darn hot), check the brakes as best as you can visually, the idle shouldn't be surging or super low probably should idle around 750 (I'm not sure I personally never drove a turbo coupe). When you drive the car and it bogs and sputters and falls on its face then you know something is wrong. I don't know much about the 2.3 but I heard they are pretty hardy motors. It should have some pep in its step once it goes into boost.
That's all I can think of at the moment being that its so late.
Good luck hun :)

Thanks mam :)
I will be sure to tell, once I check it out later on today.

rather new to the site

Reply #4 – March 28, 2010, 12:51:36 AM

Welcome!

rather new to the site

Reply #5 – March 28, 2010, 01:04:29 AM

Quote from: CleanSweep;316162

Thanks mam :)
I will be sure to tell, once I check it out later on today.

Your welcome. I would come with you but I will be with my dad all day until he does better.

rather new to the site

Reply #6 – March 28, 2010, 02:10:59 AM

Quote from: CobraGurl;316168

Your welcome. I would come with you but I will be with my dad all day until he does better.

I understand, I will see if one of my friends will go along.

rather new to the site

Reply #7 – March 28, 2010, 02:26:42 AM

One thing I have found is useful is just judging the reaction of the person selling the car if you ask if it is okay if you have it inspected by a mechanic before you decide on purchasing. If they are hesitant or give excuses, it is usually because they're hiding something. Also, if they have owned the car for a while, just gauging how much knowledge the person has about the car they are selling can tell you a lot about the condition of it, especially the things you may not be able to visually inspect. Other than that, all of the things CobraGurl mentioned should be on any car shopper's check list.

rather new to the site

Reply #8 – March 28, 2010, 02:55:17 AM

If the engine looks well taken care of, and the transmission shifts fine, no noises etc (hopefully it'll have the T5, NOT the auto)
the things to look for will be rust in the strut towers, on the bottom edges of the doors, the underside of the trunk lip, and all the usual places you'd look on about any car for the stuff.

Then again...how much snow does Virginia get? :hick:

Welcome aboard...this place is like an online bible for Fox CatBirds :D

rather new to the site

Reply #9 – March 28, 2010, 04:01:03 AM

The 2.3L should idle smoothly around 800-1000 rpm. If it has the 5-speed, run the rpm up to around 3500 in second gear - the engine should sound tight with no goofy noises or lags. Get it up into 4th or 5th gear and them floor the accelerator - you should hear the turbocharger kick in (you should hear a LITTLE bit of whine as it spins up) and the turbo boost gauge should come up smoothly). Move the steering wheel just a LITTLE from side to side about 40mph - the car should respond immediately with no play in the steering wheel. Other than the rust spots to check about mentioned above, these should tell you what shape the engine and turbo are in. I own an '86 XR7 Turbo and have driven several over the years. If the car hasn't been cared for, the turbo is usually one of the first things that start acting up. Also, with a Turbo, I get the oil changed every 3,000 miles and use nothing but Castrol 20/50 in it year round and NEVER drive it until the engine has warmed up (especially in winter). Synthetic would probably be even better but it's pricey and my girl has over 233,000 on her so I'm REALLY careful about oil changes ;-)

rather new to the site

Reply #10 – March 28, 2010, 08:58:18 AM

It doesn't snow very heavy in our part of VA but it floods!

From my knowledge when it comes to fuel injected cars is that you don't have to wait for them to warm up to drive them. With boosted cars you can hop in and drive them but stay out of boost until its warm. Now when your getting out the car you should let it sit and idle before cutting it off but that's why we have turbo timers. But I could be wrong, I am only human.

rather new to the site

Reply #11 – March 28, 2010, 09:03:08 AM

Quote from: FordTruckFreeek;316184

If the engine looks well taken care of, and the transmission shifts fine, no noises etc (hopefully it'll have the T5, NOT the auto)
the things to look for will be rust in the strut towers, on the bottom edges of the doors, the underside of the trunk lip, and all the usual places you'd look on about any car for the stuff.

Then again...how much snow does Virginia get? :hick:

Welcome aboard...this place is like an online bible for Fox CatBirds :D

Also the frame rails behind the towers, torque box area, and front gas tank mounting brackets.

Welcome

rather new to the site

Reply #12 – March 28, 2010, 09:49:36 AM

Quote from: daminc;316193

Also the frame rails behind the towers, torque box area, and front gas tank mounting brackets.

Welcome

any other places there could be rust Jerry?

rather new to the site

Reply #13 – March 28, 2010, 09:59:00 AM

I forgot to mention that the transmission went out on this vehicle(about a week ago from what the owner says) but its adds to everything that has to be taken into consideration. I appreciate everyones insight, and will have some more questions/info once I check it out.

rather new to the site

Reply #14 – March 28, 2010, 10:28:09 AM

So it's an auto car? Bummer...I'd throw in a T5 if it was mine

I'd also let the engine warm up a minute or 2 after starting regardless of turbo or not.

There's a guy I work with who revs the hell out of his engine on startup....just in the last few weeks, it's been smoking pretty hard when he starts it. I told him he's tearing it up, all he says "I don't care." Idiot. :D:punchballs:

He says when it blows up he'll put another 350 in it....yeah right. Can't even change his own oil or plugs! :hick:

If nothing else, let the oil pressure get built up before taking off