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Topic: no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved** (Read 2443 times) previous topic - next topic

no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Not too sure that I didn't pinch a wire or perhaps pull a wire out of a connector when I removed the column to hang the pedals in.

The fuel pump is energized as soon as the battery cables are hooked up, as is the keyless. This is regardless of ignition switch position.

First off, I'm going to drop the column again, and inspect for a problem. Any ideas on other things to check? I don't have a test light light, but can get one...I don't have a multimeter, but would love one.

The only thing I've done is take out the power seats, as the motors weren't working (related, I wonder..) and put in manual pedals, and swap dashes. I don't have the climate control, stereo, prem. sound, or system sentry connected, and I haven't taken any wiring out of the car.
Ideas?

Thanks in advance :D
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #1
Edit:

Every connector was accounted for and hooked up accordingly.
Fuel pump kicks on when A. key is off, and pos. battery cable is hooked up to battery. and B. key is off, and dimmer switch is pulled.

When key is on, neither battery being connected, nor dimmer switch activate f/p.

When pos. battery cable is hooked up, illuminated entry and keyless entry stay lit up, until cable is undone.
The ignition switch does nothing, no click, no start, nothing.

I grounded the required ground wires, plugged in the system sentry, still the same symptoms.
To my understanding, the ignition is not getting any power with the key on on or start, but the fuel pump will only click on with the key in off. This baffles me, then again, car electronics are far from my strong point. I've got the '88 EVTM, but an idiot can still only get so far even with a road map. :hick:

I really have no clue wtf to do next. Put the mechanicals in my white car, and go with it? I'm just feeling that frustrated with the Sport right now.
Nobody to blame though...my idea and doing to gut the interior before I even had the  thing running.
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #2
what a goat screw:mad:

Quote from: FordTruckFreeek;297989
Edit:

Every connector was accounted for and hooked up accordingly.
[COLOR="black"]
fair enough[/COLOR]


Fuel pump kicks on when A.
key is off, and pos. battery cable is hooked up to battery.
ok,,fuel pump is getting power and the EEC relay would be the power delivery guy.
therefore the eec relay is getting a ground supplied to it in conflict with its original design.



and B. key is off, and dimmer switch is pulled.
oh really?  that would be another relay giving the fuel pump a ground or back feeding the eec relay somehow.
wtf?



When key is on, neither battery being connected, nor dimmer switch activate f/p.
that is fine, no battery means no power.  Seems like this option fixes the problem.  One problem is you need a battery:hick:


When pos. battery cable is hooked up, illuminated entry and keyless entry stay lit up, until cable is undone.
ok,, thats another relay getting a ground.


The ignition switch does nothing, no click, no start, nothing.
ok, thats an open.  starter relay little red wire.

I grounded the required ground wires, plugged in the system sentry, still the same symptoms.
To my understanding, the ignition is not getting any power with the key on on or start, but the fuel pump will only click on with the key in off. This baffles me, then again, car electronics are far from my strong point. I've got the '88 EVTM, but an idiot can still only get so far even with a road map. :hick:

I really have no clue wtf to do next. Put the mechanicals in my white car, and go with it? I'm just feeling that frustrated with the Sport right now.
Nobody to blame though...my idea and doing to gut the interior before I even had the  thing running.
you gutted the interior?



ill get you a list of probable faults after you reply to the last bullet.
If you did gut the interior, man we might be doing this for a while to nail down the problem.

I am going to make a guesstimation that somewhere near the fuse panel, some wires are touching or something.
if you gutted the entire car, then without it being placed in someone elses hands who is in to these cars and good with electrical, your fugged.

no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #3
when I say I gutted the interior, I mean the seats were replaced, dash, and carpet...lol, did not mean to convey that i was working with a bare shell! :rollin:

The meaning of that was to indicate that I possibly may have pinched a wire, or left something undone.

:D
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #4
by the way,
you do have a test light,

any bulb socket with harness can be made into your migical test light.

no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #5
Quote from: FordTruckFreeek;298007
when I say I gutted the interior, I mean the seats were replaced, dash, and carpet...lol, did not mean to convey that i was working with a bare shell! :rollin:

The meaning of that was to indicate that I possibly may have pinched a wire, or left something undone.

:D


ok,,
i am looking through my evtm now....
i will start on the power delivery to the eec relay.

no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #6
hey man, any ideas or hints on what to look for...i owe you a cold one!
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #7
another resource
http://s47.photobucket.com/albums/f162/jcassity_bucket/
ie- "forward to public link"


another link to shop manuals I have been scanning for the past 6 months off and on will be posted soon.  several thousand pages.

no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #8
Quote from: FordTruckFreeek;298011
hey man, any ideas or hints on what to look for...i owe you a cold one!


no shot gunning,,,
just facts so i wont speculate ,
brb

no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #9
with batt connected and no key inserted,
what happens?

no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #10
if the key is off, and I hook the bat cable, the fuel pump primes for a second or two. if the key is on, the f/p does nothing when bat is connected.

also, with bat cable hooked up, but key in off, or even pulled out, pulling the dimmer stalk will make the f/p prime...and it does it every time the stalk is pulled, as well. with key on, the dimmer flashes the lights.

but if it's just sitting there, cable on, key off, it does nothing on it's own, save for the illuminated entry staying lit up.
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #11
Quote from: FordTruckFreeek;298015
if the key is off, and I hook the bat cable, the fuel pump primes for a second or two. if the key is on, the f/p does nothing when bat is connected.

also, with bat cable hooked up, but key in off, or even pulled out, pulling the dimmer stalk will make the f/p prime...and it does it every time the stalk is pulled, as well. with key on, the dimmer flashes the lights.

but if it's just sitting there, cable on, key off, it does nothing on it's own, save for the illuminated entry staying lit up.


doest the above bold answer my question?
TMI,,, just trying to keep it simple.

no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #12
did you happen to reinstall fuses at any recent point?

no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #13
no sir
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #14
ok
here's the dealio,,,

either you bridged a fuse across two separate fuse positions bonding two separate circuits which may or may not be possible.......

or......

you have a harness female end plugged up to an incorrect male end connector.

Pink /orange wire comes up common to illuminated entry and flasher.

Light green / yellow comes up common in illumiated entry and keyless entry.

yellow is incoming power to the fuese panel.

your culpert is probably the flash to pass circuit and if you follow that harness out, there is prob a conflict in color code at the relay or a connector near by. 

usually when you hook the wrong shiznit up to the wrong shiznit, bad shiznit comes out of the good shiznit.

you are going to have to go through your smaller connectors first or at the least, see if you have a harnes pinched that is associated with the flash to pass cirucit. 

somehow, the eec relay is getting a ground though that means.  Thats teh only way the fuel pump can run in this conditon.  I really dont feel like it has a whole lot to do with the ign sw at this time although it cold be and would be my first and least expensive option for replacement.

I would not be a bit surprised if you said the fuel pump came on with.......
key out
horn depressed
if so,

its almost acting like the ign switch is plugged up wrong. with the key off, you should not get a running fuel pump.  Its like the internals of the sw are bass akwards.

again, start at the column, somehow i remember when i was in there last that there were two connectors that i also questioned but i may be wrong.

no answer directly at this time.  Focus on the flash to pass circuit and ign sw for now.  I would also focus on a "Hot at all times" power sources as the power delivery to the fault.