Fox T-Bird/Cougar Forums  

no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #15 – November 08, 2009, 03:56:40 AM

also,
did any wires sneak out on you and you had to re-install the wire into a connector?


does anyone know if any of our relays are "normally closed"?
just from my experience, it seems they are all normally open.

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no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #16 – November 08, 2009, 04:31:29 AM

tomorrow when I get back to it, I'll check into the flash to pass circuit.

you're correct that there's two connectors in the column.
Good possibility that a wire might be pulled out of a connector.
I'll also double check to make sure the ign switch connector isn't in backwards, or if it can even be plugged in backwards.
Right now, I'm so tired, I cant recall what it even looks like lol
 
Thanks:bowdown: for giving me a drection to go in tracking this down :D:D:D

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no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #17 – November 08, 2009, 06:49:57 AM

Try unplugging the ignition switch. They're known problems in these cars, and if it's shorted "on" it might give you issues like you describe...

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no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #18 – November 08, 2009, 01:07:44 PM

now, back to your other thread,,,

how in the world did your car run without an EEC relay installed.

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no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #19 – November 08, 2009, 01:28:55 PM

The first time, I lowered the column, and then put pedals in, and t5, that was the stock engine.

Later on, when i started getting fired up to the engine swap, I went ahead pulled the dash, because I had intended on swapping engine harnesses, and heater boxes. I guess that was when the relay must've gotten pulled. Things were left undone for awhile, and when I started reassembly, I overlooked 'em. It hasn't run since then
But now that I have an idea of what to look for...maybe maybe maybe...

Typical of me to do things the long way, but never let be said I don't learn from my mistakes lol

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no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #20 – November 08, 2009, 01:55:48 PM

one way to prevent this in the future is to take pics as you go along.

that way no matter how much time passes , you have pics to refer back to of how things were.

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Reply #21 – November 08, 2009, 02:48:04 PM

ok, I pulled the fuse in position 18, which is the flash to pass circuit, along with a few others, and then, with key off, the fuel pump doesn't prime. I'm going to check the relay and all the connections/wiring I can find for the flash to pass circuit(s).

For some reason, unrelated, I think, the ignition switch does nothing at all.

Edit: (this pertains to the ign switch not powering the ignition)
I'm not sure what a bad fusible link looks like, the EVTM says they appear blistered, but I'm not sure what to look for, so here's a couple pics of the worst one. I also can't find the wire's color in the book, it's black/red...but it's connected to the starter relay on driver's inner fender.
pics:




if this is what's wrong with the engine not cranking with the key in start, what's the proper way to fix the fusible link? Or is this described in the EVTM?

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no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #22 – November 08, 2009, 05:00:26 PM

First check resistance through it with a volt meter. If the resistance is good, there is no reason to replace it. I once put my battery in backwards, it blew all the links. I just got a new set at a junkyard.

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no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #23 – November 08, 2009, 06:19:02 PM

The covering is a soft rubber... Just give each one a moderate tug, if it stretches like a rubber band, it's bad...

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no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #24 – November 09, 2009, 02:56:30 AM

The fuel pump relay was the wrong ed one. On a hunch, I pulled it, looked at the terminals on the relay and the connector, and saw that the relay didn't have one, while the connector did. I found the one that goes in there, popped it in, hit the dimmer switch, and no pump priming.

Now I can start the engine at the solenoid, but not by turning the key, however, the key will shut the engine off. The ONLY wire I took off the solenoid was the power cable to the starter, as the stocker was frayed out at the bracket that bolts to the corner of the engine block.

It started before with the SO and the T5 and pedals in, but not now, since I've swapped the dash in. No neutral safety hooked up to the clutch pedal, either.

I did a little research on the switch recall ordeal...the number on the switch in the car starts with F2...after 6 inches or so, the wires all have a weird connector, and heatshrink with what appears to be some kind of glue in them...would this be one that got fixed, per the recall?

btw, thanks again Scott, and Tom and everybody for the suggestions, and help. Very appreciated!

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no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #25 – November 09, 2009, 09:24:16 AM

The F2xxxxx switch is the replacement one... If the connector was burned from the orig sw overheating, it may well have been replaced...

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no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #26 – November 11, 2009, 04:54:30 AM

do you have the little red wire slip on boot dealio on the starter relay?

that will prevent cranking.

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no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #27 – November 12, 2009, 02:00:30 AM

Sure do...everything is connected as should be...I don't get it.

If you have anymore things I could check...well, we'll call it 2 cold ones I owe ya!

(course, you ever get to missouri, just about halfway between st jo, and hannibal, on 36, I'll buy you those beers for real lol)

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no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #28 – November 12, 2009, 02:11:42 AM

tell us all about the red / light blue wire in the column:evilgrin:

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no spark but fuel pump, keyless pad always on **solved**

Reply #29 – November 12, 2009, 02:15:06 AM

Ok, what's up with it? lol

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