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Should I cut the other spring and lower the whole front or get new stock springs?

Total Members Voted: 25

Topic: To lower or not to lower... Now with Mach1 springs = lowered! (Read 2567 times) previous topic - next topic

To lower or not to lower... Now with Mach1 springs = lowered!

Reply #15
Definitely lower it, it looks a lot better ;)
Matt
1984 Thunderbird - 89 302 HO, GT40 heads w/ Trick Flow springs, E303 cam, Edelbrock Performer 289 intake and 600 cfm 4bbl, Mustang headers, Jegs o/r H pipe, Dynomax lers, Mustang AOD and shifter, Mustang 8.8 w/ 3.73s, 3G alternator, Mustang front and rear sway bars, KYB 87-88 Turbo Coupe shocks and struts, and 11" front brakes.

1988 Mustang GT - GT40 heads, Explorer intake, 70mm throttle body, 70mm MAF, Crane 1.7 rrs, E303 cam, Kirban Kwik shifter w/ Pro 5.0 deluxe handle, aluminum clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster, o/r h pipe, Dynomax lers, 3G alternator, aluminum radiator, and 3.27 gears.
 
1986 Cougar 5.0, 1989 Mark VII LSC 5 speed, 1980 Mercury Zephyr 4 door (sold)

To lower or not to lower... Now with Mach1 springs = lowered!

Reply #16
OK, I cut the other spring. Looks good though the car is still higher on the passenger side by 1/2" :(

Also, the drivers side tire ishiznitting the wheel well - 3 times already.

I tried turning one of the rear springs 1/2 turn but it just made it worse.

I think I will need to get a bump-steer kit, though the tire easily hitting the wheel well is my first concern.

Any suggestions?
11.96 @ 118 MPH old 306 KB; 428W coming soon.

To lower or not to lower... Now with Mach1 springs = lowered!

Reply #17
OK, the spring rate of stock springs is too low when they are cut. I am hitting the fender with the tire regularly now. I realized after doing some research that a lowered car needs a higher spring-rate to keep the tires/front-end from bottoming out. I think the recommendation of at least 600lb/in rate for a lowered car is about right. I found a used set of Mach 1 springs (600 lb/in) for a good price so I'm going to use these. These should lower the car about 3/4" to start and I will cut the coils to get the exact height I want. The Mach 1 & Bullitt springs look like a good deal for our cars IMHO. See the "Spring rate and drop" table I recently posted in Suspension for more info on springs.
11.96 @ 118 MPH old 306 KB; 428W coming soon.

To lower or not to lower... Now with Mach1 springs = lowered!

Reply #18
The lowered car actually could make a case that it doesn't need a ground effects kit now.  I would actually raise it just a tad.

To lower or not to lower... Now with Mach1 springs = lowered!

Reply #19
OK, I got the Mach1 springs today and installed them immediately (took only an hour - I am an expert at this by now - lol).

BEFORE:

AFTER:


BEFORE:

AFTER - the drop is about 1" - 1 1/4" :


I also measured the springs before installing them - this is the Mach1 spring versus the OEM spring WITH ONE COIL REMOVED!



As you can see, the OEM spring is about 15-15 1/2" long before cutting, the Mach1 spring is about 13" long. The difference is in the spring rate.

Oh, the ride is so far very nice. I am NOT bottoming out AT ALL now even though my street is being paved and is bumpy gravel. Also, I did not change the struts, but the replacement Gabriels that I have were always punishing - I remember getting them cheaper as the guy at NAPA said they had re-valved them in the newer model. All I can say is, they were too stiff before and now they work well with these new higher rate springs - my bumpy gravel road hardly felt bumpy at all after adding these springs which is a good sign.
11.96 @ 118 MPH old 306 KB; 428W coming soon.

To lower or not to lower... Now with Mach1 springs = lowered!

Reply #20
Those look a bit higher than the first go around.  It looks better.

To lower or not to lower... Now with Mach1 springs = lowered!

Reply #21
Good info, I'm about to the process of Installing my 99' GT springs

To lower or not to lower... Now with Mach1 springs = lowered!

Reply #22
Looks mean as hell!!
RIP 1988 and 1990 Lincoln Mark VII LSC
I welcomed the dark side and currently am driving a 2000 Dodge Durango SLT plus, with a 5.9, Code named project "Night Runner"
Shes black on black, fully loaded, with headers, 180 tstat, e fan, straight exhaust into a cherry bomb vortex ler, full tune up, ported intake and T/B, MSD coil, and round aircleaner.
Mods to come: Fully rebuilt and heavily modded 46RE, and a richmond rachet locker.
my $300 beater ;)
R.I.P Kayleigh Raposa 12/18/90 - 2/24/07

To lower or not to lower... Now with Mach1 springs = lowered!

Reply #23
Quote from: Sduneman3;179541
Good info, I'm about to the process of Installing my 99' GT springs


I will provide updates going forward, but so far based on first impressions, I will state that I believe that the Bullitt/Mach1 front springs (nearly identical) are a win-win fit for our cars. They lower the car just enough to get decent improvement in center-of-gravity without going overboard and yet they provide the increased spring rate that is needed when you lower the car to keep the fenders off of the tires. I am very happy with this mod!

Let us know how the '99 GT springs work out!
11.96 @ 118 MPH old 306 KB; 428W coming soon.

To lower or not to lower... Now with Mach1 springs = lowered!

Reply #24
Quote from: Cougar5.0;179549
I will provide updates going forward, but so far based on first impressions, I will state that I believe that the Bullitt/Mach1 springs (nearly identical) are a win-win fit for our cars. They lower the car just enough to get decent improvement in center-of-gravity without going overboard and yet they provide the increased spring rate that is needed when you lower the car to keep the fenders off of the tires. I am very happy with this mod!

Let us know how the '99 GT springs work out!


Will do, but I have some other things I need to get fixed first(frame rail) and then I'll let you know.  I'm also going to install some 03' GT struts