2.3t questions Reply #15 – August 27, 2007, 02:03:26 PM if your state does emissions testing, i'd keep the cat. if not, it's not a needed part. do away with it. the stinger kit doesn't come with one.http://www.stinger-performance.com/headerparts.html Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #16 – August 27, 2007, 02:09:15 PM You can buy a nice compact hi-flow cat. It was just mentioned as I'm not sure what your local emissions testing (if any) is.As far as the codes go, you can buy a cheap scanner from the parts place (for Ford EEC4 systems) for $30, or you can use a test light and count flashes. It's not hard to do.Don't waste money on fancy spark plugs, Autolite 764's will work fine. Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #17 – August 27, 2007, 02:15:08 PM Quote from: Chuck W;172396You can buy a nice compact hi-flow cat. It was just mentioned as I'm not sure what your local emissions testing (if any) is.As far as the codes go, you can buy a cheap scanner from the parts place (for Ford EEC4 systems) for $30, or you can use a test light and count flashes. It's not hard to do.Don't waste money on fancy spark plugs, Autolite 764's will work fine.yes and no. will they work? yes. will they work well? no, they're on the bottom of the barrel for spark plugs. if you have a shop that deals in motorcraft, use that. mc pugs, plug wires, and cap/rotor. Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #18 – August 27, 2007, 02:24:10 PM Well buddy the IAC= Idle Air Control motor. Right on the throttle body. Look like a metal can with a 2 wire plug on it. Take that off and spray it out with carb cleaner if you can let it soak over night the flush it out one last time then reinstall it. As for plugs I like the NGK's 2238's I have reall good luck with any thing I put NGK's into. But I do like those Autolite also. They are my 2nd choice for the 2.3T's When chuck says don't go fancy he means use only copper plugs those platinums and iridiums aren't good in a boost app. Most guys over at turbo ford tell you go motorcraft everything. They make good stuff but sometimes it is pricey!Also for the cat. Get rid of the factory unit and have an exhust shop reroute the exhust without all those 90* bends it has going into and out of the cat. I did that to my 84 and I shure noticed that it builds boost quicker. That was just crossing it over under the drive shaft not 90* then under the tranny then 90* so it goes to the back.Mine is a much better angle than those factory 90*'s Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #19 – August 27, 2007, 02:25:43 PM Autolite 764's work just fine...never had an issue. Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #20 – August 27, 2007, 02:34:17 PM i have. i've had blowout more then i care to talk about from using autolite plugs. switched over to motorcraft and i was fine. granted, i wasn't at stock boost levels then. Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #21 – August 27, 2007, 07:36:46 PM When Zach and I did the large VAM and ECU conversion on his car, it both Idled better and ran stronger. Pretty inexpensive upgrade to perform to the car for the gain it provides.. Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #22 – August 27, 2007, 07:43:37 PM Starting point1 get it running right Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #23 – August 27, 2007, 10:08:46 PM i added all the small bolt-on's to my 88 tc, i have the smaller turbo like they stated, so it spools up quick, but adding the exhaust like all these wonderful guys mentioned will unleash some of the beast, plus a boost controller and the k&n helps toowith my mods i'm still getting around 21-23 mpg with the a/c on with my city.suburb driving. my 2.3t is suffering from a lower end knock in the engine and still running strong. tuned correctly the engine will go on and on.get it tuned up good, clean the injectors. get a motorcraft PCV valve. run premium. change your oil regularly and there will be no issues. Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #24 – August 27, 2007, 11:34:20 PM OK, here is the skinny, the tune up solved my starting problem. I changed the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. Let it sit for a couple of hours(more like 5) and it fired right up and didn't sputter a bit. The wires were brittle as hell and broke even though I used a plug wire puller. The plugs themselves were horrific. Carbon build up like a Mo Fo. Cap and rotor weren't terrible, but I wanted to eliminate tune up all together. I tested the coil and it is in spec, but I will change it out anyways. There is still a high idle problem after the engine gets to running at normal temperatures. At or around 2000 RPMS. Is this normal? Also I peaked inside and took a look at the top of the pistons and they have an oil sludge on them, so me thinks the rings are pretty shot unless this is something that happens to this motor when it gets 157xxx miles on it. Tomorrow the trans is going to be drained and the gasket replaced as it all over the place at normal operating temp. Also the fuel filter and the pcv valve replacement. The exhaust also has alot of leaks in it and I am sure that doesn't help either. Another question is can I just run the exhaust right out the back on the passenger side? I have only crawled under there one time to see what was leaking and didn't happens to look to see if it would fit or not. Colorado has dropped their emissions laws and michigan could give a shiznit. Some of the cars I see driving around there are mostly mosquito killing, blue smoke blowing factories. So that cat is going as long as it won't play fowl games with the rest of the car. Cheaper for me. I have also seen this IAC thing on the top of the motor. I have a 4 day weekend this week and will pull the injectors, that, egr valve, and whatever else I see to find out how it works and makes sure all is in good working order. While I am at it, is there anything else I should do at that point in tear down? Replace head gasket? Something to look for that happens on high mileage 2.3's? Oh yeah, the motor mounts and trans mount are totally garbage. I can move the motor side to side with little or no effort. Its rediculous how people could give a about cars until they break, then curse the car for breaking. As soon as my wife started it I could plainly see there was a problem with the mounts. Oh well, I ain't complaining. One thing at a time. Sorry it took so long to post something up, a friend of mine is leaving and I won't see him again for a while. Had to visit. Let the posts begin!brianTook some pics of the plugs and wires too. Enjoy. Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #25 – August 27, 2007, 11:47:13 PM looks like it needed a tune up bad Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #26 – August 27, 2007, 11:55:06 PM You should take another peak in there at the cylinder walls. I've pull apart 4 100,000+ miles 2.3t's and all but one had the hone marks still in the walls. The low compression I guess is good on wear. Also for the Exhaust I've heard that the problem in these older cars is that the inline fuel pumps is in the way along with plastic fuel lines. I want mine to dump in front of the passenger rear tire. I've thought about swaping the pump to the drivers side. Another thing that seems to get over looked on high mileage T/c is the orange wire that bolts up to the side of the turbo inlet housing. Has something to do with the O2 sensor ground. I also added two 4ga ground wires from the motor to the chassis. That helped everything electrical. That doesn't mention what the 3g alt swap does. Drop the factory PIG starter and get you a 95 ranger 2.3-2.5 starter. Just a little wire and now you have a light mini starter that takes less power to run. As for the motor mounts Chuck W is the one that can hook you up. Another thing is to head over to turboford and Search Search. Oh yeah a lot seem to like to disconnect the Knock Sensor. Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #27 – August 28, 2007, 12:21:21 AM Quote from: SLEEPER T-BIRD 87;172590looks like it needed a tune up badTo say the least. I don't know how some people live with themselves.Quote from: ipsd;172595You should take another peak in there at the cylinder walls. I've pull apart 4 100,000+ miles 2.3t's and all but one had the hone marks still in the walls. The low compression I guess is good on wear. Also for the Exhaust I've heard that the problem in these older cars is that the inline fuel pumps is in the way along with plastic fuel lines. I want mine to dump in front of the passenger rear tire. I've thought about swaping the pump to the drivers side. Another thing that seems to get over looked on high mileage T/c is the orange wire that bolts up to the side of the turbo inlet housing. Has something to do with the O2 sensor ground. I also added two 4ga ground wires from the motor to the chassis. That helped everything electrical. That doesn't mention what the 3g alt swap does. Drop the factory PIG starter and get you a 95 ranger 2.3-2.5 starter. Just a little wire and now you have a light mini starter that takes less power to run. As for the motor mounts Chuck W is the one that can hook you up. Another thing is to head over to turboford and Search Search. Oh yeah a lot seem to like to disconnect the Knock Sensor.So your saying that replacing the rings would be a reliable fix for the oil thing? It doesn't smoke like its burning oil so there may be some bearing to this. Also I have seen this ground wire, but all I can tell you is that it is there. I did the starter upgrade on the bird, and was quite impressed. Sounds like a good mod for later. and"Knock sensor"? you have got to be kidding me. I should never have thrown the birds 2.3t away. I might actually know what you guys are talking about.brian Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #28 – August 28, 2007, 08:53:22 AM I think I spy a package for one of those py Deutsch PCV valves....you just wasted your money if so..they don't work for on a turbo motor. You NEED the Motorcraft one at the very least (P/N-EV127A). Before you pay for it, try and blow through the small end. You should not be able to. If it leaks AT ALL you don't want it. What happenes is that under boost you will pressurize the crankcase and oil will ooze all over the place.The oil issue is normal for a car that age with what is probably a non-maintained PCV system. Don't think the rings will be an issue. At worst I imagine the valve stem seals are shot. Pretty common.Unless you convert to a single in-tank fuel pump set-up, it is best to route the exhaust out the driver side. Clean the IAC and then cruise over to turbotbird.com (the NATO site) and check out the Idle Adjustment procedure under the "Tech Articles" section. That will help you make sure the idle is set properly. 2000 rpms is too high. Quote Selected
2.3t questions Reply #29 – August 28, 2007, 11:48:57 AM Its a purolator pcv. But I will do as you say and check the old. If its junk I will get a motorcraft one.The high idle is sporatic. After driving for any amount of time and put it in park or neutral, it will idle at 2000, then by itself idle down to around 1000 rpms. Kind of a back and forth thing. Hopefully this weekend when I tear the intake and all that off, check out that IAC and all the other goodies, I can figure out what is causing it. When I pick up the trans filter kit today I am gonna get that code reader also. Where do I hook that up to anyways?Brian Quote Selected
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