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Topic: Project Elimination: The Mysterious Underhood Chirping (Read 10027 times) previous topic - next topic

Project Elimination: The Mysterious Underhood Chirping

Reply #15 –
Quote from: 1BadBird;171912
So JeremyB, If I install a larger condenser coil on my car, then I should have better cooling??. Especially since I plan on moving to the Vegas area.
John

Yes, a larger/more efficient condenser will increase cooling.

If you spend most of you time at speed, you won't notice much of a difference. The vent temps really go up when sitting in traffic.

You have three main options.

[LIST=1]
  • Buy a Proliance/Ready-Aire piccolo condenser. It is a direct drop in and should help some.
  • Install a SN-95 parallel flow (PF) condenser. This will make the system function as well as the factory R-12. Downside is custom brackets must be made.
  • Install a universal PF condenser. Custom brackets and new hoses will be required.

Project Elimination: The Mysterious Underhood Chirping

Reply #16 –
Ok Jeremy, taking your advice to heart, I should:

1)Purchase a new Accumulator (Where can I find one?)

2)Get a Bigger Condenser for more efficient cooling...(Do you know the specific part # for the Proliance Condenser?)

Also most importantly Jeremy, what do you suggest I do to solve the chirping problem? The cooling itself at the moment is fine. I can add on the Newer/Bigger equipment later, right now I would like to fix/silence that chirping. Shall I add some oil to the system? I don't think the belt is the problem, as it only chirps when I have the A/C on. Is there some spray I could use?
<---One must always remember to Remain cool, calm and collected when dealing with your fellow man, especially on the Internet....
-DMC24guy
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Project Elimination: The Mysterious Underhood Chirping

Reply #17 –
As t.birdsc, the chirping is probably the belt. It could also be the clutch. Bad compressors normally make a grumbling noise.

Try and spray some belt dressing on the belt to see if the chirping clears up. If it does, you may just need to re-tension (no idea on the belt routing of TCs) or replace the belt.

Project Elimination: The Mysterious Underhood Chirping

Reply #18 –
Is there an extra force applied to the belt when the Compressor is actually engaged, as opposed to when the A/C is not running? I only ask this because the Chirping only occurs when I turn the A/C on. Since the Belt is moving all the time, and IF it were the belt that was the problem, wouldn't I be hearing a chirping noise All the time?

I'm going out to buy the Belt Dressing right now, and give it a whirl. If that doesn't do it, what would be my next step?
<---One must always remember to Remain cool, calm and collected when dealing with your fellow man, especially on the Internet....
-DMC24guy
[/SIZE]

Project Elimination: The Mysterious Underhood Chirping

Reply #19 –
The SN-95 option sounds good JeremyB, as I'm going to buy a wrecked car from a local wrecking yard to do the dash/front spindle swap I have planned.


86' T/C 4.6L DOHC
16' Chebby Cruze 1.4L Turbo
17’ Peterbilt 389 600hp 1850ftlb Trq 18spd

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

“Heavy Metal Mistress”
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Project Elimination: The Mysterious Underhood Chirping

Reply #20 –
DMC24guy, the a/c compressor pulley isn't under a load when the a/c is off. The pulley basically just freewheels untill you turn the a/c on. That engages the coils inside the pulley which inturn, turn the compressor creating added drag on the belt. Hope that helps

John


86' T/C 4.6L DOHC
16' Chebby Cruze 1.4L Turbo
17’ Peterbilt 389 600hp 1850ftlb Trq 18spd

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

“Heavy Metal Mistress”
[/COLOR][/SIZE]

Project Elimination: The Mysterious Underhood Chirping

Reply #21 –
Don't cover the problem with the dressing...it will come back.  Just get a new belt.......its like 20 bux most.  You can use the dressing to diagnose the noise...but if it turns out to be the belt, just replace it.

Project Elimination: The Mysterious Underhood Chirping

Reply #22 –
Well, just replaced the belt. Still chirping. Now what should my next move be...or should I say...my next purchase? I've read the article on Clutch replacement over on NATO, but it involves removal of the Compressor...meaning...losing my R12...which I'm trying to avoid.
<---One must always remember to Remain cool, calm and collected when dealing with your fellow man, especially on the Internet....
-DMC24guy
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Project Elimination: The Mysterious Underhood Chirping

Reply #23 –
As for the R-12 availability thing, about a year ago I had an a/c repair guy tell me that I should keep with R12 (and that it was the exact same stuff used in the 80's)...I went with r134 anyways when I rebuild the a/c system. Don't remember who I recently talked to, but again the consensus was that I should have stayed with an r-12 recharge after all the new parts. Talking with people in the field is the only reference I have to the availability of true r12. Don't know much more than that, and I don't care really as long as it isn't 100 degrees in the car.

The odd thing I have is that when the car's running with no a/c, the temp gauge hangs out around the middle where always when I have the a/c on (afternoons, when sitting in traffic in the heat), the gauge barely reads "C"old. Even true after going back to a mechanical fan after my Mark8 one died 2 days ago that has been running 100%/14 volts for the last 3 weeks. Kinda weird.

I need a bigger condenser now, it doesn't get cold enough, fast enough for my preference :(
1988 Thunderbird Sport

Project Elimination: The Mysterious Underhood Chirping

Reply #24 –
Chirping, if you are describing the sound correctly, normally points to the belt. I would check the condition of the belt, and make sure the tensioner is working correctly. Did the belt dressing make absolutely no impact on the sound? How many years/miles on the belt? It is only $13 @Rockauto. I'd probably replace it.

If you are 100% certain the belt drive system is not to blame, the clutch is the next suspect. Unless there are clearance issues, you can remove the clutch on the vehicle. I believe the NATO walk-through is done off the vehicle for clarity.

Project Elimination: The Mysterious Underhood Chirping

Reply #25 –
Check the clutch for a .021-.036" air gap.
Maybe the clutch is slipping a little when it engages.
There should be shims between the clutch disc and the pulley to adjust this.

Project Elimination: The Mysterious Underhood Chirping

Reply #26 –
Forgot to mention that. Very important point!

Project Elimination: The Mysterious Underhood Chirping

Reply #27 –
Easiest thing to do now with the new belt installed, is manually add more tension to the A/C tensioner.  Since it's backwards to most belt tensioners, (pulls on the inside of the belt rather than push on the outside) I could see some problems there.  If the chirping goes away, then start the hunt for a new or better one at least.  Of course if nothing changes, then its bigger than the cheap-n-easy stuff.

Project Elimination: The Mysterious Underhood Chirping

Reply #28 –
Ok, Jeremy, I replaced the belt on the car with a brand new one and it's still chirping.

2nd of all, How would I check to see if the Tensioner is working "Correctly".

3rd of all, when you say to check the clutch for a .021-.036 "air Gap", what do you mean by that?

Finally, why would I want to Add MORE tension to the belt?
<---One must always remember to Remain cool, calm and collected when dealing with your fellow man, especially on the Internet....
-DMC24guy
[/SIZE]

Project Elimination: The Mysterious Underhood Chirping

Reply #29 –
If it's a typical 87 TC belt setup, the A/C belt makes a small "triangle".  If there isn't enough tension the belt could slip under load (A/C switched on).  Adding more tension will eliminate a chirping belt caused by a weak tensioner.  The spring in the tensioner could be relaxing.  The tensioner could also be loose side to side.  My main serp belt failed prematurely multiple times due to excessive side to side play.  Side play could cause weak tension also because the tension is being wasted on the arm and not through the belt.