Oil Pan removal
Reply #9 –
im risky but i just lift the motor till the firewall and engin touch. I block up the mounts, leave engine lift tention on,, place a floor jack under the harmonic ,,,
remove the two rack/pinion bolts and let the rack sag down,,,
lower the pan as far as it will go,,,, then reach in there and take off the pump letting it fall in the pan,,
then i just fight it out and its likely it wont come out:punchballs: so,,, i just reach in there and fish the pump out , clean up the surfaces, rebolt everything back on in reverse order.
its just odd reaching in there knowing you could lose both hands if something goes wrong.
This is exactly what I did when I initially did mine. Something I haven't seen mentioned is that you should remove the radiator, and I also advise moving the ac condenser out of the way. Also Don't bother removing the swaybar, just pop the steering rack loose and let it hang, It's the only thing keeping you from a clean pull on the pan. Once that's all done just go in reverse like it has been stated. The only other advice I'd have to offer is 1: Buy the FRPP one piece gasket (and have it more or less setup in the pan BEFORE re-installing the oil pickup), and 2: The oil pan bolts only take 6-10 ft lbs of torque according to spec, tighten them by hand/feel. It is nearly impossible to get a torque wrench to work properly for the mid pan bolts, and if you are not careful you'll end up with an expensive mess and repair on your hands. Trust me I know, I still have the bolt that ruined my day sitting on my desk as a reminder. In all honesty it probably wouldn't hurt to buy a net bolt set and use a wee bit o lok-tite when installing them. I don't know what it is about fords liking to vibrate bolts loose.
Hope this helps.