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Topic: Got it in.....UPDATE today...... (Read 9480 times) previous topic - next topic

Got it in.....UPDATE today......

Reply #75
if the motor is right, there shouldnt be any noise.  think about it.

-remove pass valve cover
-remove #5 or #6 spark plug
-rotate engine until #5 or #6 piston comes up
-its best to rotate crank till both rockers are loose (#5 tdc)
-use screwdriver or dowel to feel for the piston

-remove spring keepers via correct tool or socket / hammer trick
-valves should drop down a little and touch piston top
-place small zip tie around the top of the valves in the keeper knotch

-get your air hose and rubber trigger nozzel ready
or..
-use a rubber hose that fits the threads on the spark plug hole.
-add air to cylinder, just a tiny bit at a time while holding the valves up.
-If you can, place socket/breaker bar in a situation where crank can not turn, ie- put crank in a bind using the floor or frame.
-after air is added, you should be able to let go of the valves until air bleeds off


The above just tells us the valves are seating and the goal is to see if they are not.

probably faults if they are not:
-valve stem worn in such a way the valve is pen 15eyed
-seat grind isnt perfectly cut (poss 3 angle grind needed).

To check the stem seals themselves, I dont know.  Obviously if there were wobble, you would have had push rods poping out or lots of noise.

Another thing comes to mind is lubrication.

if the square head plugs along the rear of the block were not removed and the horizontal oil ports were not cleaned out, there may be blockage to the lifters, blockage from the results of the old engine oil circulation.

i wish these oil ports were available on the front of the motor so we could install a guage and measure pressure at the crank and say "thats a good reading", then measure pressure at the lifter runners and say  "now why is that pressure low on this side?"
Meanwhile at the oil sensor, all reads well because some ports are good.

I never understood the oil flow drawings of a block but what i see a lot of times tells me that the sensor will be reading 3 parallel branches of oil presure, thus not really telling you all chennels in the engine have good flow (ie- crank channel, left bank lifer channel and right bank lifter channel).  Thats why there are three plugs on the back of the block.

if the oil channels were in series, then the sensor would have no choice but to be accurate.

Got it in.....UPDATE today......

Reply #76
Ouch, what happened to that other cam?
My car is a gravity hybrid.  The gasoline engine gets me up the hills, and gravity gets me down.

Got it in.....UPDATE today......

Reply #77
What is the
Quote
sewing machine sound
you speak of? I've never heard it. Is it a louder noise from the valve train? I can't hear the valve train on my 5.0 unless I put my head near a valve cover. Perhaps the higher lift cam makes more noise. Are your headers tight? If they are loose they could make a noise as the exhaust leaks.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Got it in.....UPDATE today......

Reply #78
No,it's not the exhaust.I think that the stamped rocker arms make a little noise (I'll double check the bolts on the rockers in a few days),and,I think the valve covers I have do nothing to subdue the valve train noise.It's not a loud noise at all.Just the ticking of the valve train.

I did take the car down Main Street about 10 minutes ago,and at the red light,I was just listening to the exhaust (between the buildings in town,it sounded really nice,and when the light went to green,I let it go.....two beautiful black mark 3/4 down the block.The engine didn't feel like it was trying very hard,and it seemed effortless.All is good.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Got it in.....UPDATE today......

Reply #79
The noise is most likely due to a higher than stock lift cam, higher closed and open spring pressures, more efficient heads, etc. It all promotes higher velocities through the heads and an overall noisier valve train. Both my cars had valve train noise and I must have ran the valves a dozen times to no avail. Talked to a couple of good engine builders and they agreed that it is just the nature of running high lift cams with steep slopes which require higher spring pressures. I did notice my Coupe got even louder when I switched to the aluminum heads. This is all just my experience with the motors in my cars. 

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

Got it in.....UPDATE today......

Reply #80
How loud is it? If you can hear it with the hood closed sitting in the car then it's loud. Like I said I can hear my valve train only with the hood open and putting my head near a valve cover. With the hood closed all I hear is the exhaust. I do have those thick cast aluminum COBRA valve covers though, which might dampen the sound;)
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Got it in.....UPDATE today......

Reply #81
I would assume you shouldn't be able to hear any valve train at all. I can't on any car I've ever driven, except for the new motor I put 10 miles on and didn't set it up properly.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Got it in.....UPDATE today......

Reply #82
Quote from: Aerocoupe;320114
The noise is most likely due to a higher than stock lift cam, higher closed and open spring pressures, more efficient heads, etc. It all promotes higher velocities through the heads and an overall noisier valve train. Both my cars had valve train noise and I must have ran the valves a dozen times to no avail. Talked to a couple of good engine builders and they agreed that it is just the nature of running high lift cams with steep slopes which require higher spring pressures. I did notice my Coupe got even louder when I switched to the aluminum heads. This is all just my experience with the motors in my cars. 

Darren


Stamped steel valve covers will allow more noise than an aluminum cover as well.  ;)  A simple matter of sound deadening.  IIRC the later Ford stamped steel covers are dual walled to help shield against this....
-- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !!
--87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's!

 

Got it in.....UPDATE today......

Reply #83
I think a lot of it has to do with the covers actually.I am swapping them again anyway.These are really nice,but not fitting the overall look I was wanting.Back to the drawing board.The power is certainly there.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..