Engine codes, how to fix Reply #75 – June 19, 2010, 08:16:36 AM Good to know there is a difference there.Joel helped me with an O2 sensor issue as well a while back. Quote Selected
Engine codes, how to fix Reply #76 – August 19, 2010, 09:01:31 AM Now unpining of that wire never allowed the code to go away. Does anyone have any other suggestions? I can't start the car in gear, but why am I getting this code? Still getting this EGR code as well, but thats in another thread now.Also, you guys stated joel has helped you guys out before, how do I contact him? He might know where I need to make a jumper in my car. Quote Selected
Engine codes, how to fix Reply #77 – August 19, 2010, 03:02:58 PM Does your car have EATC or manual A/C control? Quote Selected
Engine codes, how to fix Reply #78 – August 19, 2010, 09:34:43 PM Manual AC control. The normal one, with the slider bars. Its not on, its slid all the way over to off when I run the test. Quote Selected
Engine codes, how to fix Reply #79 – August 19, 2010, 11:43:23 PM Try disconnecting EEC pin 10. This is the wire that tells the EEC that the A/C is on. Quote Selected
Engine codes, how to fix Reply #80 – August 20, 2010, 12:36:04 AM Quote from: jpc647;332594Now unpining of that wire never allowed the code to go away. Does anyone have any other suggestions? I can't start the car in gear, but why am I getting this code? Still getting this EGR code as well, but thats in another thread now.Also, you guys stated joel has helped you guys out before, how do I contact him? He might know where I need to make a jumper in my car.http://sbftech.com/index.php/board,20.0.html Quote Selected
Engine codes, how to fix Reply #82 – August 21, 2010, 05:34:56 PM From the Ford shop manual, the correct way to reset the error codes stored in the EEC memory:"1. Initiate KOEO Self-Test.2. Remove jumper from the Self-Test input terminal as soon as the first service code is received (even if an 11 is the first code)3. Rerun Self-Test with jumper to verify service codes have been erased."The codes are stored in the KAM (Keep Alive Memory). Disconnecting the battery resets all of the KAM including tables the EEC has stored there that can cause erratic idling until the EEC can reestablish the tables.There are no stored codes that this does not reset.As to your stored memory code 33. You never mention running the KOER self tests. Code 33 is an engine running type error and if it only shows up as a memory code implies it is intermittent.The 88 3.8L V6 is a different animal from all the previous years and I don't have any 88 dospoogeentation. As I recall from a thread awhile back the 88 3.8L has a pressure feed-back EGR sensing setup instead of the position sensor that the rest of these cars use.Just something to think about.Try disconnecting the vacuum hose from the EGR valve and put a vacuum gauge on the hose. Run KOER and you should see vacuum when the self-test tries to test the EGR.About unused wires in the EEC 60 pin connector.Comparing the 86 and 87 EVTM's, the 86 shows several pins wires that go nowhere. Some just say n.c. for no connection and some go to a connector with no wire on the other side of the connector. The 87 just doesn't show these pin numbers.I'm thinking these wires may still be in the 87 60 pin connector but they just cleaned up the diagram by leaving them off.The 86 EVTM shows wires to nowhere on pins 5,6,30 and 34.If these wires go to a connector that was in the 88 3.8L maybe there is something hooked them that shouldn't be.Enough of my rambling. Quote Selected
Engine codes, how to fix Reply #83 – August 22, 2010, 10:54:42 AM Quote from: softtouch;332901From the Ford shop manual, the correct way to reset the error codes stored in the EEC memory:"1. Initiate KOEO Self-Test.2. Remove jumper from the Self-Test input terminal as soon as the first service code is received (even if an 11 is the first code)3. Rerun Self-Test with jumper to verify service codes have been erased."The codes are stored in the KAM (Keep Alive Memory). Disconnecting the battery resets all of the KAM including tables the EEC has stored there that can cause erratic idling until the EEC can reestablish the tables..yep, thats what it says basically.Although ive said unhooking the batt isnt the right way, many say it is. just yank out the jumper wire when codes start to dump and they will be cleared. Quote Selected
Engine codes, how to fix Reply #84 – August 26, 2010, 07:08:43 PM The wire in the above picture, going into the EGR valve on the little nipple, should this have vacuum/Pressure? When? Quote Selected
Engine codes, how to fix Reply #85 – August 27, 2010, 01:47:07 AM Quote from: jpc647;333623The wire in the above picture, going into the EGR valve on the little nipple, should this have vacuum/Pressure? When?If you are talking about the vacuum line, it should have vacuum when the EEC activates the EGR solenoid.Pull off the vacuum line and put a vacuum gauge on it. Run the KOER test and you should see vacuum when it tries to test the EGR. Quote Selected
Engine codes, how to fix Reply #86 – August 27, 2010, 09:12:04 AM Okay... my next question, under what cirspoogestances does the EEC command the EGR to open? Quote Selected
Engine codes, how to fix Reply #87 – August 27, 2010, 04:59:28 PM Quote from: jpc647;333716Okay... my next question, under what cirspoogestances does the EEC command the EGR to open?More than you ever wanted to know about the EEC.Scan down through it and find the chart that answers your question.http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=3 Quote Selected
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