Engine codes, how to fix

Topic: Engine codes, how to fix (Read 11001 times) previous topic - next topic

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #60 – May 21, 2010, 09:08:23 PM

bump?

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #61 – May 21, 2010, 11:16:59 PM

Disconnect it at the pin and cover it with a wire nut. Start her up and go for a drive. Clear the memory and see if the code comes back or not.

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #62 – May 22, 2010, 04:55:46 PM

I can't get the pin to release from the big 60 pin connector. Is there a trick to removing the pin?

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #63 – May 22, 2010, 05:14:03 PM

The red part has to come out before you can unpin that brown wire.

How it comes out, I can't say...I've never taken one of those apart.

I'd guess snipping it isn't an option... :hick:

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #64 – May 22, 2010, 05:27:14 PM

knowing the red part comes out made the job much easier. I got the wire out, but I'm still getting the same code...

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #65 – May 22, 2010, 09:52:20 PM

Quote from: jpc647;322885

I got the wire out, but I'm still getting the same code...

You cleared the memory?

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #66 – May 23, 2010, 12:21:23 AM

Yes. The code is not "in memory" its displayed before the single flash of the check engine light, indicating its a current problem, not a problem that was stored in memory.

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #67 – May 23, 2010, 09:39:19 PM

Now I removed that wire and have been driving the car around today to and from work, and nothing seems to be different or not working. The car hasn't necessarily lunged forward, but the problem is pretty sporadic anyway. Should I leave it disconnected?

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #68 – May 23, 2010, 09:40:18 PM

I would for a few days at the very least .

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #69 – May 25, 2010, 09:35:53 AM

I have driven the car about 50 miles now without pin 60 connected, I have not really noticed any difference. I cleaned out the EGR valve last night and spread apart the pins on the "Salt and Pepper shakers" to try and fix the rolling idle. I didn't notice it this morning. I'll leave it out for a couple of days longer.

I just don't understand how a wire that isn't supposed to be there is there, that harness came out of an 88 Thunderbird with a 5.0. I bought the whole harness and computer from a junkyard and installed it. Nothing on the computer harness is from the 1988 v6. The engine is an 87 tbird 5.0, but the harness is an 88. I think maybe we were looking at things the wrong way?

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #70 – June 10, 2010, 06:37:57 PM

Alright, well I've driven around for a while without the wire connected and I have not noticed any difference. Should I reconnect the wire and see if the problem or problems come back? Any suggestions?

Also, is there any way for the code 67 that I'm getting that would make the car think the AC is on all the time, when it isn't? I mean i can change the heat flow settings from vent to floor to mix, etc, and it changes. It's warm air too. Is there anything that could be unplugged or disconnected or broken or whatnot.

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #71 – June 10, 2010, 07:56:33 PM

Quote from: V8Demon;304862

Code 67 WILL cause arolling idle FWIW.....

http://351winsor.com/joel/Flash_Simul/Code67_Rolling.SWF

Wow, my car has been doing that for years. So that's what a rolling idle is.

Quick question: if we do an HO conversion from a stock auto computer to a manual Mustang computer (e.g. DA1) does this become a non-issue?

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #72 – June 14, 2010, 08:43:56 AM

Alright, after removing pin 30, and cleaning out the EGR valve, the random engine throttle up while driving seemed to go away. Well, while driving the the rain yesterday, it happened, but not as bad as before. It doesn't seem to jerk forward when I'm stopped, but now it seems like if I let off the throttle, the car doesn't realize this right away, and even when the pedal returns to its home position the car is still moving like I never lifted off. It does it for about 5-6 seconds and then it goes to normal.

Now what sensor controls this? The mechanical throttle cable is not sticking, as I've checked this several times. What sensor(at the risk of sounding like an idiot) controls or reads the imput depending on where the pedal is? Is it only the TPS?

Could the cruise control be malfunctioning? Maybe something is shorted out and the car thinks temporarily its "resuming" a pre set speed? Where can I disconnect the cruise control, without tampering with anything else? It hasn't worked in a couple years, I think its because of the disk in the steering wheel not making full contact, as sometimes the horn doesn't work just right.

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #73 – June 14, 2010, 01:39:04 PM

Quote from: Quietleaf;324967

Wow, my car has been doing that for years. So that's what a rolling idle is.

Quick question: if we do an HO conversion from a stock auto computer to a manual Mustang computer (e.g. DA1) does this become a non-issue?

No. You will have to compensate for the neutral drive switch or work your way around it.

Quote

Manual/Automatic EEC Code Wiring Differences

There is a hardware difference between an auto processor & a manual processor. The difference is because of the way the NDS [neutral drive switch, manual transmission] & the NSS [neutral safety switch, auto transmission] are wired. They are both wired to the same pin#30 but the auto trans wiring grounds the pin to the starter solenoid & the manual grounds to signal return, during crank mode there is a voltage spike sent to pin-30 so the auto trans processor has a diode on pin 30 where as the manual processor doesn't, most of the time this won't cause a problem unless you get into a prolonged crank condition.

Those that want to convert their automatics to manuals, and swap the ECM, need to clip the wire going to pin 30 or else the ECM will fry the trace off the board. This leaves the manual EEC unable to dump codes, which looks for the loop through the neutral sensing switch of the T5 transmission.

Make sure you have a 5 speed O2 sensor harness when using an A9L or you will fry the trace also. The damage is common when people mismatch harnesses and use an automatic O2 sensor harness with an A9L computer.

You may also have issues with the 02 sensors..... http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showpost.php?p=323274&postcount=15

Engine codes, how to fix

Reply #74 – June 18, 2010, 10:53:17 PM

Two things Paul

Thank you! And you might want to double check the o2 sensor harness theory. While correct for a Mustang, pin 30 does not go to the o2 sensor harness plug on a Cougar. The black connector pinout on my car (88 XR7) does not match the black connector pinout you posted. I presume you got that from very useful? I've been bit a few times trying to go off those Mustang diagrams.

My car sufferd from the rolling idle (yes past tense!) my setup is much different from the OP's. I'm running an A9L on a gt40 headed car with an auto :p, I know. Mine would hunt so bad that I couldn't let the car idle to heat up in the winter or leave it running during a quick stop into a gas station, sometimes while in gear at a stoplight it would hunt so bad and kill itself if you didn't put your foot on the gas. After reading your post with the link to Joel's video I did some investigating. Pin 30's wire on the 60 pin goes out under the hood and across to the black and grey connectors by the booster. In the black connector you will find the brown/white wire. On the other side it changes color to the red/blue wire that goes down to the transmission that then turns into the white pink wire that makes its way back to the starter soleniod. I pulled the brown/white wire out from the black engine harness connector at the booster, I then started the car and waited for it start hunting (usually after its warmed up), when it started hunting I jumpered it to the sig rtn wire in the diagnostic connector. While my car didn't respond as quick as Joel's video it did smooth out to a nice solid idle. To test I then pulled the wire right back out and it started the rolling idle again. Reinserting the wire brought the idle back to a solid 700ish. Now with my auto I now run into the lack of high park idle and no idle compensation when dropping into gear. But these are issues that anyone running a standerd eec in an auto car will have. Before just pulling it into gear would cause the engine to surge and die if you didn't catch the gas peddle soon enough. Now it surges slightly but does not die, and that I am happy with. So thanks again for that video, I'll have to tell Joel that it fixed my car. Remember he helped me way back when to find the burnt sig rtn circuit in the A9L eec that no doubt was caused by a long crank in an auto car before I got it. (it was DOA to me)

On a side note the rolling idle seems to be caused by the eec adjusting ignition advance, with the IAC unplugged my car still suffered from the rolling idle.