In NC, car will pass emissions if all original smog equipment is present, although it does not necessarily need to work, or pass the test, if the car is older than 1995 model. I had problems with my smogpump being noisy. I got another smogpump at the junkyard. It went noisy. So.... I took the thing apart and took the inside of the pump out, now I have just an empty can with a pully on it - very quiet.. But now, I take that off too in between inspections. I would feel like a polluter, except, I am told that all the pump does is add oxygen to the exhaust so that it increases the Parts Per million (PPM) of oxygen, or, reduces the PPM of hydrocarbons. Ostensibly, the "added" air helps the catylytic converter remove more hydrocarbons if there is more air. Wherever I disconnected a hose, I plugged it. With the steel pipe coming up from Catalytic Converter, and that other one next to it, I got those 1" or so rubber caps from autozone or somewhere. The other little hoses got a self tapping woodscrew, or something screwed in to the open end in order to plug it. I personally have not experienced problems. the toughest thing is that the doggone serpentine belt has a long span without support, and it makes a little noise. That is why god made radios! Anyway, I worried about it awhile, but, with all the hoses plugged, it seems like it has been ok for the last 40,000 miles or so.
My coil springs are covered in black vinyl. I am no chemist or engineer but, it seems like the vinyl would melt off:flame: . Would that matter long term?
I just want to help the car get through those corners a bit better... ok, a lot better.
I read seemingly conflicting information about which bushings to buy. Stock Rubber A-Arm bushings on my nearly 20 yr old 87 tbird really improved drivability. I seem to understand from reading about the Hi-Perf bushings that you pay a steep price in comfort and that they work great on smooth pavement but tend to bounce you off if the road is bumpy. I would like to hear from someone who knows how dramatic is the difference.
My wrecked 88 cougar LS has the rear shoulder belts. If any one wants them let me know. Also I bet the ones out of a tempo could be made to work.
I want the rear shoulder belts, so, I too got some out of a newer Cougar or Tbird for my 87 T-bird. I studied the upper mounts on the junkyard model and see that they simply mount to the thin sheet metal under the backlite. I do not have a micrometer to measure if the metal under the newer cars is significantly thicker than mine. So far, I am nervous about putting my loved ones into my "Probly ok" design. Anyone actually switched them out? I
Why couldn't you just do as I did then just put some of that chrome tape stuff on the upper edge if you must have the chrome. Right behind the factory chrome there is a layer of hard gray plastic. I bet when you were done you could even clear coatr it to make it last longer.
I saw I tip: Use Apple Vinagar on the black part of the side moulding. I used an old Tshirt, LOTS of elbow grease (like 5 min per linear foot) and ended up with the molding looking much better. Some parts where the chrome is in the middle are yellow, and I will consider the use of the chrome tape stuff... It can only look better!
The great research in this thread certainly helps me know what to do to replace my alternator. I do not know enough to understand if you guys are doing it to get a performance gain or simply because a new alternator is needed and you are looking for compatible replacement. Thx.
When you say the clunk happens going from stop to forward or even louder stop to reverse.... it makes me suspect something in the drive line. Maybe transmission mount? Manual explains how to pry up on the mount to see if it is torn. Also, the entire rear end is supported by control arms too. Ask someone to lie down next to car while you drop in to reverse, then switch places. It is (fantastic though it might be!) only a machine. Think, buttstuffyze. I have so often had the experience of going to a shop and saying what I thought was wrong and getting no argument and an excellent job of what never needed doing that I (if I succumb to a repair shop at all) realize that if I tell them what is wrong they are not pr0ne to argue with me - they have no liability either. However, get them to say what is wrong and ask them about how they intend to back up their opinion.
It costs a lot to get seats reupholstered because it is time consuming and people that do it generally have so much pride in their talent that they do not care to do 2nd rate stuff. That is to say, don't think a few hundred bucks will do it. HOWEVER, do consider those more upscale seatcovers if your seats are torn & dirty & ugly. The more expensive ones can fit quite well if you take your time and install them carefully and securely and properly. Who would not rather sit on something new and clean compared to soiled and torn? Depending on current condition of seats, $50 might freshen things up quite a bit... and a lot of the pickup truck bench seat models will fit the back if you take out seats etc. Note that LOWES has carpet that is very thin and comes in rolls 6 ft wide in black and it is PERFECT for covering the deck under the back light ($6 or $7 total)
As I pondered what I might do about weatherstripping I made a trip to the junkyard. I notice that on the same driver's 87 tbird door (the one the same as mine) there are at least 3 different styles of weatherstripping. On the door is the flat piece going around the curved part of window on door. Another piece of (more the style in the picture) stripping that frames the cabin and has a corner to it. Finally, the felt where the rolled up window tucks in to the top of the door frame. So, what you might consider doing is looking at what you have and deciding what part of the job the moulding will do. Example: The moulding on the trunk is different than the molding on cabin. Note: It is the felt being worn that creates wind noise by the back corner of the window, so if noise is your problem check that before you get new rubber. Check and study the pattern of dirt on the paint in the spaces where the rubber should seal. Unless it is obviously very degraded, it probably leaks less than you might assume. I think the price is ok, it is a matter of how much of the job it will do. Auction says 'kit' but I do not think it is a "complete kit, rather it is enough to do like, the cabin.
Yes, it is good that AC comes on when on defrost. The AC is designed to dry the air when attempting to defrost. If you want heat but do not want AC to come on, leave lever on VENT and turn heat up. That is, AC is designed to come on when heating or cooling.
